Dru

Ya "better put some purple klister on this cucumber for better glide, its getting hot", huh.

i bet joe simpson was glad he never shit in that crevasse on the way up or it woulda made his crawl that more disgusting...

quote: Originally posted by trask: hey drul hey trask 8==D------*

quote: Originally posted by Off White: I recall some little burger stand up by Robson. I think it was Mountain Burger. Famished, we all ordered the specialty of the house, the "Mountain Burger" and got half way through before we realized it didn't quite taste right. When closely questioned, the proprietor had to admit that it was some kind of soy product, which he tried to justify by adding "I think it makes a better burger, don't you?" Do they have to list the ingredients on things in Canada yet? I always liked those coffee creamers that just said "an edible oil product" that we would build into tall pyramids on long rainy afternoons in Banff... The ingredients have always been listed in BOTH ENGLISH AND FRENCH, just not the %DV of fat etc. But you know something... in Canada the only vegetables and fruit in the grocery store that are waxed are the American imprts? How come 60% of Americans are obese?Must be all that wax they eat on everything!

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Lambone - When I mentioned the E. Ridge of Mount Temple, I actually meant the E. Ridge of Mount Edith Cavelle. The E. Ridge of Temple is 5.7, and although most of it is a scramble it is in reality a rather large and serious climb on which there are great epics on a regular basis. If you are there with a partner who is up for a long day with some complicated route finding on loose rock and maybe a little bit of messy mixed climbing, it is a great climb. But I wouldn't recommend it for your honeymoon unless your wife was pretty hardcore. The E. Ridge of Cavelle is long for a newbie, but much easier and has better rock. If you try that one, consider descending the route as the descent off the back (not altogether trivial) leaves you with a rather long walk home. - Matt Damn when I saw you call ER of Temple a 5.4 I figured you were setting him up for a major sandbag... now you say it was all a mistake

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: quote:Originally posted by Dru: AVOID THESE PLACES: Charles Hotel and Green Canyon Motor Inn in Boston Bar; The Jolly Miller Pub in Sardis; Totem Hotel buffet in Lillooet; Klahanie Inn in Squamish; Mountain Burger House in Squamish; Pemberton Hotel in Pemberton. Mountain Burger rules. Old school Squamish not a trendy place PineyK the MBH has seriously declined over the last couple of years. Now it is like you are getting a large helping of cigarette ash served in every meal. I mean I have been going there for like 25 years (used to get icecream there when I was a little kid) and it is seriously the worst its ever been. The only reason to avoid the Klahanie, tho, is cause it is a spendy tourist trap. The food is Ok. If you want real old school Squamish the best place is actually the 99'er in Brittania Beach.

Here is an idea for filling old bolt holes. Take a pebble and grind it down until it fits the hole like an ice cream scoop fits the cone. Then tap it into the hole. With any luck somebody is gonna think its a xenolith and try and crimp on it and then Pop!!!

Hollyburn when I was 5. I was already wondering what was on the other side of that mountain on the way up. i was so disappointed to find out it was just some boring valley. I figured there should have been a lost world with dinosaurs and stuff. I remenmber the first time i hiked up the Chief and saw Garibaldi I was so impressded. I figured a peak way up north like that was probably in Alaska...

quote: Originally posted by Poseur: 20 years ago these same concerns were being expressed over the coming ice age - which is it? Doesnt this show that scientists are willing to change their minds when confronted with data showing the opposite of what they believe to be true, unlike conservative (Ok, all) politicians?

Four sections 1)glacier travel to get to ice apron 2) ice apron ( the 700' you mention) 3) snow arete 4) finishing pitches (two options) 1) can be the crux late in the year like September when the snow has melted. avoid cravasses, cross schrund where applicable, gain 2) 2) climb 250m of snow and ice "up to 60 degrees" but mostly 50 degrees. if its late in the year you can climb on the left edge allegedly and place rock pro, or climb 4th class rock on the left. 3) move up the easy snow/ice arete above the apron with good exposure on both sides 4) either do a mixed traverse left into a couloir and climb it about 300m to the summit ridge, or go straight up rock from the top of the snow arete. this is what i did. we followed a crack/ledge system on the right wall of the couloir -for 8 pitches of rock up to 5.7. Ok in plastic boots. doing the mixed traverse and couloir would have been about 100X faster than the stupid rock pitches. from wherever you top out (couloir or rock) the summit is a fair ways away andhigher (3rd class sscrambling). the fastest descent goes south fronm the top of the couloir so leave all your gear where you top-out on the ridge, run tag the summit, come back, grab your gear and descend. oh yeah - everybody says this - and it is true - but no one pays attention - WHEN YOU ARE HIKING IN AND YOU COME OUT IN THE MEADOWED BOWL BELOW THE FACE, CIRCLE WAY AROUND ON THE LEFT, DONT HEAD STRAIGHT FOR THE FACE cause there are about 6 waist deep stream crossings that are too wide to jump across and its tedious and damp crossing them.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I hear the Lowe route on Geikke is a good one if you like to hit up aid climbing in the backcountry. That one was freed by Slawinski/Dumerac/Nazarchuck in summer 2001. See 2002 CAJ for more details.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The Y I heard you eat at the W

I will give you my report on my return. Basically though it is all good if it is in that book. You can also check Bivouac.com of course. I hear the Emperor Face on Robson and N Face of N Twin are classic moderates

Dont let them eat GU ?

So as a side track from the Good Food discussion... where are some good restaurants to eat at on climbing trips? And where are some greasy maggot-ridden health risks to AVOID? Here are some suggestions: On the way to Lillooet or wherever: Home Restaurant (Hope); Dee's Riverside aka More Than donuts (Hope); Canyon Alpine (north of Boston Bar in Fraser Canyon); North Bend Cafe on the railroad tracks across the bridge from Boston Bar. Chilliwack area: Gabacho's Cantina in Chilliwack (north of the Highway); Major League II (sports bar with cheap food near the Canadian Tiore south of the highway on the way to/from Chilliwack Valley); Wildcat Grill in Popkum is good afters on the way back from Chehalis/Old Settler/Hope area Squamish: Shakespeares for pies; Brew Pub (food OK, beer OK but where all the climbers go...): Shady Tree Pub has better food but has smokers; Toasters' in the Super 8 motel, is the best place for breakfast. Pemberton: Pony Espresso - coffee breakfast lunch. Wicked Wheel in Mt Currie for dinner. Whistler - avoid stopping here unless you are looking to meet Australians with STDs. However if you have to there are many overpriced places with good food and beer. just walk around the village. Smith - The Original Burger works in Madras is yummy. Leavenworth - the mexi place on the second floor of a building has been good in the past. also Gustavs of course. Oregon - the Original Pancake House. Once left Red Rocks at 4 AM specifically to arrive in PLand in time for the OPH opening. AVOID THESE PLACES: Charles Hotel and Green Canyon Motor Inn in Boston Bar; The Jolly Miller Pub in Sardis; Totem Hotel buffet in Lillooet; Klahanie Inn in Squamish; Mountain Burger House in Squamish; Pemberton Hotel in Pemberton.

Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool (Cheakamus Canyon) whatever that "outnumbered his guests" route is at Index "The College of the Rookies Outddor Leadership Program Couldn't Find Their Collective Asses With A Sat Phone and GPS Let Alone Map And Compass", 10d, Jasper. The Whiteman Falls/ Red Man Soars and Black Dyke/Negro Lesbian combos are pretty funny.

bring along a partner who is a coprophage. problem solved. altho i pity you if you actually know one of these people!! timmy, chubnook the hound does not count here....

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Buying cool looking shit and spraying to chicks at bars. Fighting off snafflehounds, eating horsecock, chestbeating and spray, and getting mass assaulted by blood sucking insects.

if you think sk sprays bad i make like 20 posts a day Anna did you broaden your horizons yet?

Take crampons and 1 ice screw for abalakovs. i think its a really good route but then im biased... 5 trips in 3 years... its definitely one of my favorite peaks. go now while snow is still on approach. there is a pitch by pitch description on bivouac.com with lotsa beta there.

This weekend I gape up Wash Pass summits. everyone else stay home so the routes are not crowded!!

quote: Originally posted by trask: why is everybody from bellingham a wacko? cause Canadian fumes and second hand smoke across the border....

maybe i should join that club it sounds like a good place to meet girls!

it always rains at index you dont have to worry about the sunheat at all