Dru

check weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca and click on golden for weather. call up the ACC national hut or email (check www.alpineclubofcanada.ca ) and ask how busy the hut is cause it has been full lots over the past few weeks or so ihear i heard 2nd hand its been busy with lots of peopole in there doing new routes before the new guidebook comes out... conditions good for rock not so good for snow and ice... and many thunderstorms. bzzzzap!

i gotta jump in here.... sure the russians may or may not have had tactical on the ground superiority to invade western europe but is there any evidence that they actually would have if they thought they could do it? I mean they had a hard enuf time running the warsaw pact....and look how it fucked them up... what would the commisars have done without the black market western european produced goods to serve as status symbols anyways... im all in favor of voluntary war. all willing combatants propceed to antarctica immediately - i will chip in to pay for your guns and ammo...

chesty beaty. Lillarete Mt Athelstan cause we thought it was gonna be 4th class and it wasnt but we sent anyways. Grimface Matriarch traverse with bros for a stag party rapping off Monkeyface Snootli Express!!!! first trip up Squamish Buttress (with Andy) - first trip up Angels Crest (with Don) - first trips up Snake and Rock On (with Eric) Brewers Buttress Dreamweaver at Marble Canyon Gibraltar Wall , Weeping wall rope gunning FB up Oregon Jack and RockOn Gimli south ridge Black Orpheus and Tunnel Vision getting stoned and crawing under Gateway Rock at J-Tree with the real original Chongo by moonlight a couple unnamed and formerly unclimbed peaks solo in the Northern Rockies c. 1992 Mts Cook, Owen and Marian, Kiwi Land Catapault-Bone-Canary linkup. Purple People Eaters on Alpaca. those are the ones i just thought of right now that keep me hummin even stuck back in the cube.

DFA you sound a lot like Master Beta from the Climbing magazine letters column...

La Sportiva Club is more like what the Subaru Outbacks in the Smith Parking lot could use to keep from being stolen. Methgings you were meaning La sportive Chub, namely, Italian Horsecock.

quote: Originally posted by RedMonk: when did you do TNF? and which general direction did you go? does anyone know if itis possible to go down the arm under the (white salmon?) glacier to the face? we did it in july of 1997. no snow until the end of the ridge (1/2 hour from the bivi site). and that was a high-snow year. we went in via the clearcut, crossed white salmon creek and hiked in along the ridge east of white salmon creek directly to the bivi sites at the knoll under the face.

Ya we went in to the North Face and came out by the fissure Chimneys and i would say 1) the way we went in there was no bush, just nice easy open forest, but it took us 4 hrs. 2) the n face is a great climb if you like easy snow. 3) i would rather have gone back down the n. face than go down by fisher chims which i thought were kinda unaesthetic. lots of loose rock and then you have to hike out from lake ann UPHILL at the end of the day. truly an unnecessary circumnavigation.

doubt messner would be wearing slipperrs cause he got no toes... more like he would be wearing stiff soled shoes...

quote: Originally posted by trask: I'm not worthy. Dru will be back tomorrow. DID YOU HAVE IT CIRCLED ON YOUR CALENDAR?????

Jones and his merry crew are up in the region right now ticking off FAs left right and centre so you better do some now to make sure your name appears in Selkirks North

hee he I know of some that have done it in 26 hours car to car... no headlamp, bivi with the goats above the descent gully...

So I was out yesterday playing... exploring obscure granite crags near Hope. Took the drill, placed an anchor bolt. With huge rack started up a corner placing Kbs, microcams, hooks... moving my doubled clove hitches along the rope for self belay as it was described to me how to do ( I climbed a 10m route at Squamish this way once to test the system and even fell on it so it must work...) Got into a roof with loose blocks. 1 and 2 Camalot pinched down to blue TCu thru a flake then 3.5 cams over the roof. Moss started in earnest.... Found a mossy offwidth leading upwards. Payed out 30 feet of slack thru the clove hitches then started running it out pushing #4 camalot up with me. stopped half way to sink a baby angle in a seam on the side for pro. Made it to a ledge. As it continued munge 5.6 to the top of the crag i decided to end climb on the ledge. so i placed the #4 and a wired nut equalized and rapped off. jugged back up removing gear. decided to rap off bolt station. whipped out drill and fired in 2 holes. sketchy compression bolts were super hard to pound into the holes (maybe 10mm bolts in 9mm holes) so i left them 3/4 placed and rapped sketchily off the resulting mess all tied up with some sort of american triangle.... the route was 5.8 A1+ but the rappel would probably be about A3..... anybody got any secrets for free climbing while aid soloing other than giving yourself loads of slack through the clove hitches and givin er, i would like to hear them...

BD sells sticker pax specially for helmets. Look like a wanker with money to burn for ONLY $13. And they come in non-gender specific "male" barbed wire tattoo style, and "female" cutesy flowers style. personally i figure you can buy those hello kitty stickers in the mall like 4 for $1....

Paleface Creek bridges on Chilliwack lake road are being replaced so the road will be closed to all traffic Aug 26-29, according to Ministry of Forests.

I dunno who they are but the guy in Squamish who told me ashlu was CHOSS has now changed his tune. They did the SE buttress I think. Right of the Serl McNab up a vague nose just right of some black streaks in the centre of the wall and left of a lower angle area. 6x60m pitches.

Dynomerchant dopnt forget to check out the Chilliwack limestone bouldering and Hope area granite now you are back in town. Closer for you than Squamish and less developed. Maybe you can do the 2nd ascent of Nate's V10 at the gold Rush.

I can bring a woman to orgasm in under 15 seconds do you think I should report that to Hans???

i just wanna be cool and use the new icon!

yes, behind the chopper there in the photo is the so called "Airport wall" with routes up to 10 pitchers and 5.11+, reportedly. and that was c. 1996, who knows what there is now. we found evidence of more recent lines than Snootli Exprerss on Snootli in the form of recent Fixe ring stations when we got offroute looking for the express above the tree ledge. i heard guys from Whistler have been doing lots of secret/unreported new routing up there. Most dont seem to scrub the cracks just climb them mossy.....

www.bivouac.com

So the Queen Bess trip was called in the face of a washed out bridge 10km from the start of the bushwacking, a bad weather forecast and a horsecock deficiency (only 12 landjaegers for 2 people for 6 days). Our #1 Backup Plan, an "obvious" unclimbed couloir, was also bailed on in the face of the Subaru overheating trying to drive in to it. So Backup plan B was unveiled and we drove to Bella Coola. There is more granite in that valley than in the whole of Squamish and Powell River put together. Most of it is in the form of huge slabs. We decided to do "Snootley Express" a 15 pitch 5.10 rated route put up in 1993. The route is super-briefly described in Lyle's Central Bc rock book but I had seen a story of the first ascent, with a few more vague details, written up in the 1993 VOC Journal by Mike Surface, who was the belayer on that ascent. Anyways Brent and I got up late, fouight of fmosquitoes, and went slab climbing. Super cool 1 hour approach up thick moss carpets following bear trails in part. About as much of a hike as Sunblessed, maybe a bit longer. The route start was pretty obvious where the trail hit the rock. We started climbing. The first two pitches were 5.7/8 (2 bolts - 50m) and 5.6 (0 bolts - 50m). A little bit sketchy cause of grit and lichen on the slabs you had to stop and wipe the soles of your shoes on your hand you couldnt just smear nonstop. The stations had chains, webbing and rusty shackles. Ok so we could bail if necessary!! Pitch 3 was 5.9 stemming up a blank corner and about 30m. the wall got steeper here. two bolts in the first 15m then run it thru the crux to the anchor looking at factor 1 fall. thats pretty tame for this route as it turns out - just a wake up. Pitch 4 was hard to find at first. some bolts out right on another route are a station and not the 4th pitch. p4 moves left from the p3 station and climbs the right edge of a hanging slab over some detached blocks to a ledge. 40m 5.8, 2 bolts and gear behind detached block. P.5 heads up into a huge tree island ledge which is reached at the end of the pitch. about 5.8. somewhat mossy but you get 3 whole bolts on this 5.8 50m pitch!!! it was hard to find p. 6 because no bolts are visible from the top of tree island. we searched for an hour and ended up climbing 2 pitches up flakes on the right side (3rd class & 5.8) to gain the next tree ledge above on its right side. turns out the route climbs 2 pitches slabs (5.7? trad pro behind a flake, 50m & 5.8/9? 1 bolt, 40m) to the left end of the same ledge. the next two pitches were some of the best slabs ive ever climbed. huge sheets of glacial polish with holes in it. climbing on the edges of the holes. sort of like climbing plates of desert varnish. absolutely no pro except belays- 5.7 and 5.8 - both about 40m. we somehow linked the next two pitches with some simulclimbing thru missing one of the belays (it was on a ledge out left and we went right at first) - there were a few trad placements on these slabs. two more pitches of 5.8/9. the next two pitches were the crux pitches. i led off on the first of these (12th pitch in total) taking a few cams for some pods i saw along the way. as it turned out the cams were too small for the pods so I ran it out hoping for something better. instead i got a set of 10a moves to a blank groove filled with moss. sketched up it somehow with much crying, wailing for mommy, swearing, tears, stained shorts etc. 10a 40m no pro!!! (a #3 Camalot would have reduced this to a manageable factor 1 fall potential!!!) Brent led the nexdt pitch which had a short vertical section up edges with a bolt. he actually FELL OFF on this luckily after clipping the bolt. then sent it next go. route continued up a deep polished runnel chimney with a crack in the left wall for pro. 10b 45m. from this point, there are 2-3 pitches of reportedly 5.5 (4th class it looked like) to the top of the wall, but it started to rain so we rapped from here. we climbed 13 pitches in 4 hrs due to not having to stop and place gear. raps took 2 hrs then off to the Bentnick Arms in Hagensborg for beers and burgers. This is a super sweet route - one of best slabs ive ever climbed. gear - take 6-8 slings and a small set of cams. no need for a rack of nuts but you need HUGE GREY SQUIRREL BALLS to deal with the runouts. be prepared for swarms of blood thirsty insects if the breeze ever stops or when it clouds up.

Ninja Tiger Arete on Scuzzy. MCLane deselected a lot of routes based on mainly his lack of a good photo of the route..... PS A new 6 pitch 5.10 route just got climbed on Ashlu. There is a topo in the new route book in Climb-On in Squamish.

Sisyphus Summits - North Face of Ha Ling. (Canmore). Real sport climbing with 25m "pitches" and bolts 3m apart.

im in squamish right now hanging out at valhalla pure - its pouring rain but supposed to clear up on tuesday. - by which time i have to be back at work.

skaha in july = suffering.