Dru

quote: Originally posted by MountainMan: Well, I'll enlighten you a little Dru, on my plans this summer. I am planning on taking a 9 day trip into the Pickets with some well-known legends of NW climbing. One of these legends made the first "ascent" of Pioneer Ridge (one of the most remote portions of the Picket Range). This legend happens to be my father. Just because I haven't had the time or opportunity to get into the pickets yet, that doesn't invalidate my already prosperous climbing career. As for the top 100, I know several of the very few people who have already climbed the top 100 peaks in the state and it has become a goal of mine to climb them also. When I am finished with the top 100, I will start on the top 200. After that, the top 300. Everyone has their priorities ... these are mine. You really can't fault someone for doing what they want to do. In all actuality, you shouldn't even be questioning my desire to climb the top 100 peaks in Washington. It's really none of your business anyway. Concern yourself with yourself and you'll be better off in the long run. It sounds like what you need to do is get off the computer with your 5000+ posts and do something else worthwhile in life. Like climbing .. instead of meddling in people's business and acting like the authority on Cascade climbing.

sk did you ever see the movie about Ed Wood???

the only wool i wear is ANGORA

penguins are screwed i guess. the penguins in NZ and S Africa and S america and south georgia and kerguelen can carry on the breed. the snow is doomed anyways. global co2 levels, remember!

Hey Jon And Tim Im gonna report this post just to see if the damn thing works!!!

i am not slagging you or denying your right to chest beat but why the hell would anyone seriously pursue top 100s to the detriment of rad peaks like the pickets... are you some sort of ed veisturs groupie or something... what will you do once you climb the top 100, quit climbing and take up chess or knitting...? so we can summarize the previous 4 pages of posts as follows - 1) some areas of white salmon creek have bad bush 2) some areas dont Therefore: if you are approaching TNF of shuksan and you encounter bush YOU ARE GOING THE WRONG WAY

ya see we were actually in the old forest like 20m from the edge of the clearcut...duh. mtn man ifn you have been cascade climbing for like 15 yrs how cum you have never been to goodell creek or whatever in the pickets that reputedly has way worse bush than white salmon?

try not posting the same topic to 2 different forums silly!!!

check weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca and click on golden for weather. call up the ACC national hut or email (check www.alpineclubofcanada.ca ) and ask how busy the hut is cause it has been full lots over the past few weeks or so ihear i heard 2nd hand its been busy with lots of peopole in there doing new routes before the new guidebook comes out... conditions good for rock not so good for snow and ice... and many thunderstorms. bzzzzap!

i gotta jump in here.... sure the russians may or may not have had tactical on the ground superiority to invade western europe but is there any evidence that they actually would have if they thought they could do it? I mean they had a hard enuf time running the warsaw pact....and look how it fucked them up... what would the commisars have done without the black market western european produced goods to serve as status symbols anyways... im all in favor of voluntary war. all willing combatants propceed to antarctica immediately - i will chip in to pay for your guns and ammo...

chesty beaty. Lillarete Mt Athelstan cause we thought it was gonna be 4th class and it wasnt but we sent anyways. Grimface Matriarch traverse with bros for a stag party rapping off Monkeyface Snootli Express!!!! first trip up Squamish Buttress (with Andy) - first trip up Angels Crest (with Don) - first trips up Snake and Rock On (with Eric) Brewers Buttress Dreamweaver at Marble Canyon Gibraltar Wall , Weeping wall rope gunning FB up Oregon Jack and RockOn Gimli south ridge Black Orpheus and Tunnel Vision getting stoned and crawing under Gateway Rock at J-Tree with the real original Chongo by moonlight a couple unnamed and formerly unclimbed peaks solo in the Northern Rockies c. 1992 Mts Cook, Owen and Marian, Kiwi Land Catapault-Bone-Canary linkup. Purple People Eaters on Alpaca. those are the ones i just thought of right now that keep me hummin even stuck back in the cube.

DFA you sound a lot like Master Beta from the Climbing magazine letters column...

La Sportiva Club is more like what the Subaru Outbacks in the Smith Parking lot could use to keep from being stolen. Methgings you were meaning La sportive Chub, namely, Italian Horsecock.

quote: Originally posted by RedMonk: when did you do TNF? and which general direction did you go? does anyone know if itis possible to go down the arm under the (white salmon?) glacier to the face? we did it in july of 1997. no snow until the end of the ridge (1/2 hour from the bivi site). and that was a high-snow year. we went in via the clearcut, crossed white salmon creek and hiked in along the ridge east of white salmon creek directly to the bivi sites at the knoll under the face.

Ya we went in to the North Face and came out by the fissure Chimneys and i would say 1) the way we went in there was no bush, just nice easy open forest, but it took us 4 hrs. 2) the n face is a great climb if you like easy snow. 3) i would rather have gone back down the n. face than go down by fisher chims which i thought were kinda unaesthetic. lots of loose rock and then you have to hike out from lake ann UPHILL at the end of the day. truly an unnecessary circumnavigation.

doubt messner would be wearing slipperrs cause he got no toes... more like he would be wearing stiff soled shoes...

quote: Originally posted by trask: I'm not worthy. Dru will be back tomorrow. DID YOU HAVE IT CIRCLED ON YOUR CALENDAR?????

No I did!!!!! $100 US sweet deal. (and 35 dollars shipping...) I have already drilled 14 holes with it. beats sucking up to Kevin Mclane to borrow his powerdrill.... hand drilling is for those without attention deficit disorder i find it hard to concentrate on one drillhole for that long.

Jones and his merry crew are up in the region right now ticking off FAs left right and centre so you better do some now to make sure your name appears in Selkirks North

hee he I know of some that have done it in 26 hours car to car... no headlamp, bivi with the goats above the descent gully...

So I was out yesterday playing... exploring obscure granite crags near Hope. Took the drill, placed an anchor bolt. With huge rack started up a corner placing Kbs, microcams, hooks... moving my doubled clove hitches along the rope for self belay as it was described to me how to do ( I climbed a 10m route at Squamish this way once to test the system and even fell on it so it must work...) Got into a roof with loose blocks. 1 and 2 Camalot pinched down to blue TCu thru a flake then 3.5 cams over the roof. Moss started in earnest.... Found a mossy offwidth leading upwards. Payed out 30 feet of slack thru the clove hitches then started running it out pushing #4 camalot up with me. stopped half way to sink a baby angle in a seam on the side for pro. Made it to a ledge. As it continued munge 5.6 to the top of the crag i decided to end climb on the ledge. so i placed the #4 and a wired nut equalized and rapped off. jugged back up removing gear. decided to rap off bolt station. whipped out drill and fired in 2 holes. sketchy compression bolts were super hard to pound into the holes (maybe 10mm bolts in 9mm holes) so i left them 3/4 placed and rapped sketchily off the resulting mess all tied up with some sort of american triangle.... the route was 5.8 A1+ but the rappel would probably be about A3..... anybody got any secrets for free climbing while aid soloing other than giving yourself loads of slack through the clove hitches and givin er, i would like to hear them...

i bought a bosch power drill from mr. headspace... it works well...

BD sells sticker pax specially for helmets. Look like a wanker with money to burn for ONLY $13. And they come in non-gender specific "male" barbed wire tattoo style, and "female" cutesy flowers style. personally i figure you can buy those hello kitty stickers in the mall like 4 for $1....

Paleface Creek bridges on Chilliwack lake road are being replaced so the road will be closed to all traffic Aug 26-29, according to Ministry of Forests.

I dunno who they are but the guy in Squamish who told me ashlu was CHOSS has now changed his tune. They did the SE buttress I think. Right of the Serl McNab up a vague nose just right of some black streaks in the centre of the wall and left of a lower angle area. 6x60m pitches.