Dru

Reminds me of the story about the monastery in Scotland that decides to sell fish & chips to raise cash.. Things go well but soon demand is exceeding supply so the abbot calls up Joe McGuinnesses Fish Wholesale (a potentially bigger supplier) and asks him to come for an interview. Joe shows up at the door of the monastery and is met by a tonsured fellow in a grease stained cassock. "Are you the fish friar?" "No, I'm the chip monk."

this is the one that is Christian Beckwiths new job after he got fired as AAJ editor and is only gonna feature climbs that are grade IV or longer... and RedHat owner dude is their major sponsor... cause lets face it the alpinist market is the smallest climber market for every alpinist there is 10 sport climbers and 20 boulderers sounds like an excuse to burn money...i wish them well but i bet they are gonna crash just like the last 3 magazines called Alpinist, and Alpinism did... i mean what is the point of a magazine that is basically just a serial version of the AAJ... i dont see the point any more than i see the point of Vbouldering magazine actually.

quote: Originally posted by trask: Saran Wrap as emergency condom. (Usefull when stranded in tent with the opposite sex; or in Greg's case, with a goat). wasnt there an 80s rap song about that? I recall the lyrics went Wrap it up Stick it in Pull it out Saran Wrap Saran Wrap

leatherman pliers as roach clip

Im impressed by the fact they had their slave labour make scale models of the empty beer cans and malt likker bottles...

full rack of hexes as bear bells also warn other parties of presence of bumblies...

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by dkemp: Here is a great photo of our climb! Isn't that Mt. Rainier, Dru????? Looks like da TOOF to me

you could burn your horsecock!

yeah i dont know that american side o baker that good... just cole/dem to cockscomb... so all this rainbow glacier and artist point and sholes and ptarmigan i'm thinking to myself, "where the hell?" of course, dru being wrong is nothing new... [ 08-12-2002, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

um.... title says Baker but all the glaciers you reference are on Rainier?????

quote: Originally posted by pope: Very clever. For anybody who would believe this ridiculous story, there now exists serious doubt that you and Matt K. are the same animal. Ain't no way Matt would ever blow his sunny day foolin' around like that. Now answer me this question. Have you ever climbed Mt. Rainier? If so, provide the details of any adolescent ascents you might have made of "Raindawg", and I will know for certain whether or not you are Matt K. HEY POPE CHECK IT OUT!!

quote: Originally posted by fern: I'm surprised you didn't use a pin stack to break the spare tire chain couldnt fit an angle through the hole in the wheel, just a file!! also more seriously, pin stacks only break locks, not single links of chain. also I think Don had like 3 knifeblades and a LA, not enough angles to stack!

quote: Originally posted by fern: quote:Originally posted by moonchild: <snip a bunch of blah blah> An amusing post, eric. his name is erik, thanks for noticing moonchile is having difikulty speling due to assid flashbecks.

quote: Originally posted by trask: why don't you have that boil lanced? the only thing i got boiling is my crack kettle

quote: Originally posted by erik: another question along drul's line of questioning...why does he have a rack on his harness??? is he top roping practicing placing gear on an unprotectable slab??? "He's training for Everest, silly"

oooh the trask 'seal of approval'

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier neither did heand we didnt smoke in any huts!

holy shit!

So Ok...Is unknown TR guy pulling on the rope in the picture? His hand is right on the rope! Discuss at depth.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: If Dan Larson could climb hard, this sounds like a TR he would write. Poser. Greg W Except that we didnt climb Rainier

quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: While in the icicle today I got to watch this guy climb "Doin the Dishes 5.11D" at 8 mile rock. It is an awfully thin climb, and Kramar says, "Many try this technical tweaker, but few suceed" Whenever at 8 mile I always wished to see someone climb it, so it was like.......cool and stuff. What the hell this is the ultimate gaper TR... I watched someone TR an 11d!!

Friday - waited for rush hour to end then drove to Squamish. Got my coffee cup back from Robin and Eva's house where it had been unintentionally visiting for a week. Robin and Eva wanted to do chores rather than climb... but they made me coffee. Went to the Mall. Ran into Rich in IGA. Rich was going to PetWall with Senja, Jordan, Brent, Jeremy, Diego etc. No one wanted to come and help me climb my project on Cheakamus!! Ate giant cinnamon bun. Surfed net in Valhalla Pure. Kris showed up and was KEEN!! Woo hoo. Drove up to Cheakamus (rehabs). Kris led Jugular Vein for warm up. We rapped off finding a 55m rope is too short meaning you have to down climb the boulder problem start OOPS!! Dru psyched up and led up his project finding it pretty easy after all the psyching. "Mad Science", 10b, 35m. 9 bolts plus #1, 3 TCU and #4 Camalot. This route is 5m left of "Idiot Savant". See Whistler Rock for details. kris then went sport climbing doing a bunch of 11's at Ripple Tower and Dru flailed up some 11 pulling on the draw when he couldnt do the 4 foot dyno off crimps at the 3rd bolt. After climbing Dru went to the Mountain woMan in Brittania and ate fish n chips . Gave some skater teens a lift to West Van. One of them said "Sick beats man" as he got out. Does that mean he liked the music?? SATURDAY: Don S. comes out and we head off for an obscure area of the Chehalis with unclimbed routes and stuff. Drive ~80kms of dusty logging road. Get psyched, see peak, pack up, about to leave when notice one tire is going flat. Can't release spare on Toyota cause chain crank is rusted shut OOPS!! Drive out 5kms toward logging camp but tire is fucked so decide to stop and fix it instead of driving thru water bars on wheel rim. Spend 3 hrs lying under Landcruiser with file, filing thru chain...eventually fix tire and decide to bail due to no spare now and 80km of bad road to drive. Drive out eating dust. Go in Chilliwack. SUNDAY: 7am leave chilliwack. 9AM start hiking at Yak. 9:30 AM start climbing. one party epicing on Yak Crack one party epicing on Reality Check, one party lost and bailing on the 3rd class start to Yak Crack... we got on the Crack went up to the Check and finished by that route... all the topos (Beckey McLane Knight Kearney) are bunk...here's a description the route is no harder than 5.9, not 10a...maybe it was when it was dirty but the lichen has worn off the footholds on the 'crux' slab now... 6 hrs up...party ahead of us was 2 ESL guys and shouted to each other in baby English all the way up route, we caught up to them on summit... 8 hrs car to car, wicked bluebird day, no epics, no booty, great route. pie and coffee in Hope to finish off weekend. [ 08-12-2002, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

all of that driving info is in alpine select (McLane) which you should have used instead of the guidebooks you mentioned....and it slesse not sleese. aside from that, can we get a TR? [ 08-12-2002, 08:20 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: Check bivouac for Urquhart, looks blah blah from the West. I assume there is a steeper aspect? Beckey's guide says Northgraves is "fuckin' heinous dude." HAve you done it? I have no idea what LBD mean, "lower buttress direct"? Isn't that in the guide. I've had my eye on Illusion due to Beckey's guide. Howay is a big scary moutain with my name all over that mother, and epic too. Blanshard looks pretty, kinda like a chair peak. The needle looked neat. Reh looked like a nice jaunt. I also discovered stone rabbit from that dude Kobus's website. That dude is hard-core, and a good photographer. Scuzzy looked neat too Dru. See I'm in "school", I did my "homework". Any more assignments? ldb = labour day buttress nesakwatch notch route? urquhart = the east face is steep one. maxim de jong did an 18 pitch 5.10a A3 there in '88...unrepeated north buttress of grimface? minute hand?