Dru

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methinks you need another one of these : ] in your sig.

quote: Originally posted by greenfork: How would Trask get to the top of Stuart?? Helicopter with Swedish Bikini team?

harder to come back after failing i'd say, in fact after a hard day of climbing saturday i dont even feel too bad about taking sunday off to and lie in the sun and read the paper and hang out in MEC.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: I am soo outta now that I'd be killed or at least beg you to kill me to put me out of my misery. Dru - I can enter the three legged race by myself. Your legs are that short huh

jimmy check out www.bivouac.com Jason dixon has a TR and some photos of W ridge of Tupper that might have the beta you need.

quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. cgentzel@aai.cc first time is funny... second time is silly... 3rd time is a spanking!

I wanna see Peter Puget and Pope entered in the 3-legged race as a team!!!!! I volunteer to judge the contests (especially the bikini contest) and BBQ the horsecock at the party afters. And run the keg

ya you shoulda bought kramar guidebook. it contains more details about strange creatures found hunkered down in nooks and crannies behind flakes i love that phrase to death! also the bit he writes about "Lworth is not a place to climb hard but rather to picnic"

Wouldn't you know it it turns out Shaun Neufeld DID climb it in Dec. 2000. WI5 M5 ish , 4 pitches of "Icing Sugar".

judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...) [ 08-19-2002, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

i figured, soap and water might leave residues that could contaminate fuel in future, whereas alcohol is volatile and evaporates in a few minutes. so wash with rubbing alcohol then let dry in the sun for 30 minutes before flaming.

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:A molotov cocktail has to be in a glass bottle so that when it is thrown it can break and spread burning gas everywhere. I think the worst you could expect from a MSR bottle would be getting knocked out when the thing hits you on the head. Granted, the traditional MC is made using a glass container. It's primary purpose is to start fires. If one, however, wanted to maim people, an explosion using aluminum or other metal would likely be more effective. Though I've not done it (nor would I ever consider it), I understand that one of the best lowtech bombs can be made using an (empty) compressed gas cylinder, a good source of combustible material (fertilizer dissolved in an accelerant), and an ignition source. The thick walled cylinder forces the reaction to create significant pressure before it blows, thus potentially causing greater damage than the wimpy 55-gallon drums that were used in Oklahoma City. The same priniciple is used in firearms, except that the explosive force is directed out the end of the barrel, pushing a projectile along the way. Back to the fuel bottle, the most dangerous scenario is when the bottle has a trace of liquid fuel in it, the remainder of the cylinder volume being filled with vapors which are actually more explosive than the liqiud fuel. That's really why airlines frown on transporting bottles that have been used, even if they appear to be empty. I'm really surprised that the guy who 'flamed' his empty bottle in an earlier post wasn't injured. He was damned lucky! I rinse my bottles with hot water a number of times before transporting them as checked baggage. I always pack the lids separately from the bottles. I've never had a problem with them. A guide in Alaska told me that he often packs a 'dummy' stove near the top of his pack so if an airline gets sticky over the 'used' stove possibly containing fuel vapors, he can just hand it to them, knowing full well that his good stove is burried in the cookset in the bottom of the pack. it was me that flamed the bottle and i did it AFTER washing just to get rid of any lingering vapours. and it worked! actually there wasdnt even a bit of extra flame cause the washing did the trick, but better safe than sorry i guess.

quote: Originally posted by Walter Burt: I vaguely remember that Croft finished the enchainment with Prussik Pk. I know he did Stuart N. Ridge, Sherpa, Colchuck, Dragontail, Prussik. Anything else? The write up of his trip is in a mid-late 1980's (1986?) Canadian Alpine Journal. Was it ever in an AAJ?

Some beta... the Bypass Glacier is about 3/4 still there. looks like you could do the original start from rock but the ice edge would be right above you. rest of the cirque below e face is all ice, not all that broken up. the glacier below navigator has slid out a bit you can approach on the left side on rock all the way from the prop cairn.

here is a picture west buttress is just left of the gully at right.

Looks like a flashy snafflehound to me.

if you get a set of hexes and a set of cams, you will find the hexes to be near useless or at least never used pretty damn fast. likewise if you get a skinny rope the fat rope hardly gets used. lots of webbing is always a necessity cause you can rap off it or extend anchors or hand-tie aiders or leash your snafflehound or whatever.

I would be scared of encountering the business end of Shaun's Husqvarna if I was a poacher planning to go up there and climb any of the other unclimbed lines without permission.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: I would consider any beta from Dru to be potentially sandbagging! "Orifice Fish" at Smoke Bluffs is easy for 5.9. More like 5.8.

Made a daytrip Saturday up to the Nesak Spires with "these are my private crag!!! trespassers will be chainsawed" Shaun Neufeld. Shaun pointed out his previously completed lines for the forthcoming topo (there is a beta tester version in the new routes book at MEC). After waiting out a rainstorm that came in out of nowhere we climbed the west buttress of South Illusion just left of the Rexford-Nesakwatch gully. 1) begin in a heathery bay and climb over a short overhang and up behind a pinnacle. Climb slanting seams on right wall to a big flake and splitter crack to a tiny ledge below an offwidth. 40m 5.8 2) climb low-angle fist/OW (3.5 Camalot size) to heather ledges, trend left up these then up short finger and hand cracks to a grassy ledge below the ominous flake. 40m 5.8 3) climb left side of flake up an overhanging stemming chimney with a leaning offwidth in the left wall Good left knee jams . Pull out over an overhanging chockstone then up easier corner to top of flake, up 10m splitter hand crack to ledge belay 50m 5.10b? (who can rate offwidths properly anyways)... this was supposed to be my lead but I made Shaun lead it cause it looked scary - and IT WAS! 4) mantle up behind a large detached flake, check out short roof cracks out to the left, then climb up bottoming crack and sketch over black-lichened slab to top of buttress, 30m 5.7 You can unrope here. 5-6ish) wander up 3rd class scrambling along top of W face to the summit. The summit block is kinda high to boulder up and features a 5.7 OW on south side and a much harder OW on the north side. Beware of ravens swooping by and pretending to be falling rocks in order to make you flinch. On our way out Shaun also climbed a 45m 11b finger crack on a crag near the N-S spire col. And we saw two snafflehounds either fighting or getting it on in the boulder fields.

quote: Originally posted by To The Top: Hey Drew, How many of those 20 guests were your avatars? Nice to see the Canadian gov't is paying triple time to some to work on Sunday! Recovery after a climb is nice with a bottle of Chardonney on the deck in the sun! Nice day to enjoy the waterfront! Gasp, shock, horror, I was surfuing cc.com and I wasn't even at Work! the way they cut our budget do you really think they'd pay me to work weekends

quote: Originally posted by jordop: Almost as bad as GOING TO THE CO-OP ON A SUNNY SUNDAY, eh Dru? Yeah, and seeing about 50 people I knew doing the same thing! What a bunch of losers I don't think I could have done anything much on Sunday or until my ankle scars heal up from Saturday. Anything except

Seen surfing cc.com on a sunny, warm Sunday: cs, jesse, jordop, sk, AlpineK, fixedPin, Teogo, Norman Clyde, Geek the Greek, slothrop, Coondog, To The Top, and 20 guest(s) You guys should be ASHAMED OF YOURSELFS!!!!! Ooops - me too! Off to gape and spray outside now

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dru: it refers to the two artificial jugs bolted to an otherwise blank face on Mt. Spears I'll bet those have some objective dangers. Namely two huge black bodyguards ready to tear your head from your body. The approach via Justintimber Lake is now too overgrown and bushy to be practical. Ferocious maneating cougarlike snafflehounds infest the trail. [ 08-16-2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]