Dru

Damnation Crack is solid 5.8. Y'all should try Orifice Fish or North North Arete for some classic 5.9s.

where is a good easily accessible crag in washigton on which you can practice nailing - should told him to go there... or to set up a toprope if he couldnt do it clean on lead

they breed faster than you can shoot em, you are doomed!

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Belaying Alex on his multiple big whippers onto small Aliens convinced me they were the shit. That and they work very well for aid routes, especially the offset ones in pins scars. Ya but I betcha ZeroCams work BETTER

why not ask Brian, he's the one who told me! Goat hair eh. I am gonna report that interesting fact to our biologist. Then I can claim that Im actually doing productive work while surfing cc.com! (instead of trying to claim im working thru my writers block like normally)

Aliens vs. Zero Cams flexibility - Zerocam slightly higher flexibility as it flexes all the way to the head. width (side to side) same size Zerocam slightly narrower safety - Zerocam has cam stop cost - ZeroCam is cheaper at MEC. strength - same size ZeroCam lists out slightly higher. Thats ZeroCam over Alien 5-0.......... Of course, MEC got their first shipment in - FOUR WHOLE ZEROCAMS FOR THE VANCOUVER STORE!!! And they sold 2 of them by Sunday.

Hey right on dR that is a cool sounding traverse. I know Brian Moorehead and party did it back in the early 70's but I do not think it gets done a lot?

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: And now...PAYBACK TIME!!!!!!!!!! NICE BEAVER

shaky i was about 6 inches and a lucky catch of a shrub at 30mph away from a 600 foot fall unroped last autumn... i didnt climb for about 2 months after that, then slowly got back in to it just doing a bit at a time following routes, sport climbing and bouldering helped, as did doing mellow climbing trips with friends and smoking the good herb... it took me about 3 trips of doing nothing but seconding 5.7s and backing off 5.8 leads to get my head back... you should try and concentrate on what you like about climbing aside from grades or hard runouts...just doing mellow climbing and having fun with friends...enjoying the post climb beer and horsecock... [ 08-19-2002, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Dr. Flash Amazing is proud to announce that this weekend he successfully ticked the technical and committing Couch-to-Beer traverse in an astonishing 16 seconds round-trip (including decapping, thank you). Next weekend, a fast 'n' light alpine-style assault on the New Seasons beer aisle is planned, weather permitting. Hey i did that problem too... V7%alc./vol from the sit down start.

funny i always find basalt cracks hard cause there is less friction...basalt is slippery...

the route is the nose free in a day and he has to train for it....

nobody expects you to actually do work on monday just show up and sit by computer drinking coffee and bsing with co workers.

here is a TR about a scary runout I did recently and sort of what ran through my mind and how i dealt...

combine the two and count backsides at the nudist beach

quote: Originally posted by iain: Slip of paper in ziploc, 1975, Mt. Rhodes what else was in the baggie, and was the paper a rolling paper?

I see Dan Larson is surfing this site right now I demand a Dan Larson TR: how many times have you climbed Rainier so far this year Dan? Any smoke signals rising from Muir hut?

quote: Originally posted by fern: I'm not icegirl mixedgirl

if a snafflehound walks by does it set off the motion sensor? Or a deer? Or a cougar?

hot air ballooon, hot air self supplied

I find that fear is like the infamous pink elephant in that if someone says "DONT THINK ABOUT A PINK ELEPHANT!" immediately you do... if you are busy telling yourself "dont be scared dont be scared" you end up scared... I find distracting myself thinking about fun is the way to go... i tried like Forrest has said and also others, namely, "Imagine what can go wrong and minimize consequences of failure" more or less, but I found I always got mental images of extreme worst case scenario like "These 15 solid bolts will all break and I will splat on the ground if i dont do this move" wheras i think i was supposed to say "Oh a little fall, thats Ok I can deal" and feel confident making the move.... [ 08-19-2002, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by fern: Here's a question though: Who believes that the two choices in climbing partnership are either swing leads OR ropegun+burden? Can one climber be an equal partner even though they lead 0<=pitches<50% ? Yes if they buy me beer afterwards or vice versa!!!

eh, if it was for the climbers sole it would be chickenhead soup...

quote: Originally posted by iain: I have found smiling helps in grim spots. Makes them "grin" spots

Ask yourself "Why do I climb" Then "What do I like most about climbing" Then "what can I do that will maximize the good feelings I get from climbing" Then do it... Also, try to use positive visualization before hand (seeing yourself cruising up climb and successfully on top feeling confident and in control) rather than negative viz (seeing yourself smashed to bloody pulp at foot of climb) can work to. And be prepared to bail and back-off a lot until you get your headspace back. helps to have a few supportive rope guns. also getting some of those quicklinks can help for bailing midway up stuff.