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Everything posted by Dru
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The rules say one thing but what you can get away with is something else and varies quite a bit. Before I went to New Zealand, and coming back, I took my stove fuel bottle, washed it out with rubbing alcohol, flamed the interior after drying by dropping a lighted match in to burn up any remnant fuel, then put it in my pack along with and mixed in with a whole bunch of aluminum cams. It made it through the xray machine both ways just fine.
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Potholes is more like a 5.6 I dont think Carnival Crack would be 11b at Squamish either.The hardest offwidth at Squamish (Scimitar) is 11b. And doesnt the guidebook say Carnival is 10d? I thrashed on it and it felt just like Squamish 10d offwidth to me, little easier (wider)and not as steep as Hypertension. Here are some unrepeated? lines I bet are sandbags: North ridge of Co-Pilot 5.5 North Ridge of Hozomeen South "5.4 but serious due to difficult protection" [ 08-16-2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]
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If you would cut your genitals off just to win, you obviously need to win. I mean thats even more impressive than Lance!
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i work in chillidog and my boss works in surrey... that is called autonomy...
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Snow in Canmore today, rain elsewhere. Take that jordon peters and ray borbon for being on holiday while i have to work
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here is a hint - no one at arcteryx ever reads email sent to bird@arcteryx.com. Go to the office in Burnaby, get a handful of business cards and start sending emails to the names on the cards. or just walk in, say I hate you all and leave a coiler on the rug.
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quote: Originally posted by trask: Barbershop rocks!!! thats the new bouldering area down by the Pole, right
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"To scramble around on a few little rocks is not, of course, the same as mountaineering." - Lionel Terray describing Fontainebleau c. 1948 "Bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing" - Ron Kauk c. 1990 Who was right?
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quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Dru: Punk in Drublic is so 90's. I listened to it when it was cool. Balls. Punk in Drublic is still in rotation on the DFA sound system. As long as it rocks and it ain't commercial crap, bring it. So what, then, good sir, is cool to listen to now? Tuvan throat singing.
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Punk in Drublic is so 90's. I listened to it when it was cool.
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I only climb with telepathic partners that can read my mind. That seems to work.
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are you from Old Skool or Nu Skool
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quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: i think g-spotter is playing the "run it through babelfish a couple of times" game. you know, you type something in, translate english-russian-portugese-english and see what comes up... i.e. via english-german-french-english: if you whom see I think of Gg-spotter am "" to play" race him babelfish a couple of times "the play which you know, you type something, you translate and what englisch-russisch-portugese-englisches comes... here is something funny to do. get babelfish to translate an english sentence to spanish then translate the Spanish sentence using the "Portuguese to English" translator (without translating Portuguese to Spanish. aquí is something amused hace consigue el babelfish to traducir joins oración English al español entonces traduzca la oración española using "the Portuguese" los al traductor inglés (sin to traducir portugués al español.
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This play, is him the recreation to play so much, why purposely in their manner would form each possible heart thinking an advertisement of expiring to which they would like to communicate thus difficult devilishly honestly to include/understand? Why it would be almost like playing 33 rotations per note of minute on the hinged plate with seventy. I do not believe indeed such in any healthy person would consider a stupid and ridiculous activity.
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if'n you use those tiblocs a lot you wont have any need to use the knife on your rope it will already be shredded!
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quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: Thinker wrote: quote:when's the last time you used your toothbrush on a rock while mountaineering? heck, when's the last time you used a toothbrush on your teeth while mountaineering? you mean you don't take along your drilled-shaft alpine toothbrush like ED VEISTURS does?
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quote: Originally posted by erik: one word: contrived one picture = 1000 words
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: quote:Originally posted by Dru: really all those areas have so much potential i rarely repeat problems but rather scrub & climb new ones every time i go there. i personally find a lack of "developed" landings, trails and chalk on holds to be a big plus. Hope is gonna be a pretty dead area until the guidebook comes out then all the trendy losers will show up blabbing about chris sharma gossip and grabbing each others bum. I understand what your saying it's rad having a place to yourself and running around putting up problems like crazy...so why is a guide coming out then? Keep the bum grabbers at Squamish. A guide is coming out cause Nate and Mark want to spray about all the 'hard' problems they have done...
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a trad climber only needs one person to love him - his partner. or not even love him, they can be bound by mutual disgust but still want to climb the same peak. but boulderers need the love cause they need 8 friends with pads to spot them on their new highball problem...
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yeah, dry tool index = ape index +16 inches... actually, ok a 45cm tool extends your reach by more than 8 inches... more like a foot! im not imagining ANYTHINGabout the other 8 inches though
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quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by Dru: "To scramble around on a few little rocks is not, of course, the same as mountaineering." - Lionel Terray describing Fontainebleau c. 1948 "Bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing" - Ron Kauk c. 1990 Who was right? This also assumes that mountaineering is equivalent to climbing. That's simply not true. When's the last time you were able to practice self-arrest or crampon technique on a boulder? And to echo an earlier post, when's the last time you used your toothbrush on a rock while mountaineering? IMHO, mountaineering can (and usually does) involve climbing, but is much more comprehensive than simply climbing. I practiced dry tooling on boulders this last winter I can do this one problem with ice tools that i can't do barehanded cuz of the extra 8 inches of reach
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: quote:Originally posted by Dru: routes from 11a to 12+ across the valley... talk to mike crapo for info on the routes. ahhhh... i figured someone had developed at least some of it. Looks good. Has he found any caves or super steep stuff or is it all vert to slightly overhanging? What are the approaches like? Man o man I love limestone... i dont know of any big caves but there might be some.. if you want that super steep Thailand-esque tufa and pocket stuff you better go to hat creek or horne lake...it think there are only about 5 routes on 1 cliff so far (15 minute hike/bushwack & batman up steep fixed ropes in dirt gullies to reach) i checked out some othercliffs you need more like a 45 minute uphill bush thrash to reach...
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i can't view thatsite at all get a message from homesite saying no such site exists... i think they stopped paying homesite the $$$ yeah LOTW is north of hope - best boulders are at S end of lake, hike thru first boulder field to second one. no trails!! just look around. generally the further from the road you go the bigger the problems get. really all those areas have so much potential i rarely repeat problems but rather scrub & climb new ones every time i go there. i personally find a lack of "developed" landings, trails and chalk on holds to be a big plus. Hope is gonna be a pretty dead area until the guidebook comes out then all the trendy losers will show up blabbing about chris sharma gossip and grabbing each others bum.
