Dru

I forgot to mention that i got punched in the mouth... by a 30 lb. icicle... my tooth did not FULLY penetrate my lip but it did result in some red phlegm in the snow and instruction from a co worker today that I should stop brawling!

See Ice Conditions thread. Lillooet may be thin and manky but Manning has some good ice.

Dont you mean "kneeling in front of..."

Is the guy in the picture supposed to be hiding behind the bush, puking, or examining a rare species of ant?

Calcium ions are an electrolyte muffy......ditto sodium, potassium, and probably magnesium, i guess?

Who would feed the puppy while Ray was rowing solo across the Atlantic? By the way I remember readfing about a successful media prank which was a fake attempt to be the first man to windsurf from California to Hawaii. Dude calls the California media, has them come to the beach and watch him sail off into the Pacific. One month later, he flies with his windsurfer to Hawaii, then calls up the Hawaii media and has thenm come to the beach as he sails ashore! After all the hype dies down he reveals how he tricked them, but most of the hoaxed media are too ashamed to print how they were fooled. Its a good technique, Eredn, if things get too tough you could always consider using the same system

Cramping is usually a sign of electrolyte depletion, I believe. I was cramping up in the legs on Cheam, drank 2L of Gatorade and the cramps went away.

Cobras are suck get Quark, worlds best ice tool.

I guess Im gonna have to look at my pins again, all my bugaboos tapered to knife edges, I thought?

On the same topic how come Timmy has 4 stars and Jon only has 3. Why haven't the Admins locked themselves in at 3 stars. Do they feel like they would rather be awarded the BADGE OF THE COMMON MAN namely 2 stars, by their peers, as a recognition for their service to the PNW sprayer community or what?

I like to climb everything and talk shit too. I am only a mediocre climber so I believe in quantity over quality. Ezxcept when it comes to beer that is Honestly I dont think a eating your at a bivi can be called "introducing human food to wildlife" either. Sport climbing rulz but chipped holds and bolted cracks suck and if i catch you doing that I'm gonna tell your mom. Or make you don a 60 lb pack and slog up scree for 15 hours in some alpine re education Mao style. So dont start - got it?

Fern, Steve and I went to Maning Park yesterday. Sumallo Bluffs not in unless you are a sick hard mixed climber (lots of exposed rock and discontinuous ice and hanging curtains not touching down) who likes cold showers (visible running water) HOWEVER: Gibson Pass ski area routes are in. We climbed Nepopekum Falls. Its leaner & harder this year than it was last year (see last years photo )more like solid 4+ than 4. I was forced to lead it when Steve declined in favor of shooting pictures, and I would say it was my hardest ice lead ever, I nearly pitched twice. The WI2+ & mixed chimney line left of the falls is in but the rock is snow covered, looks like more of a wallow than a climb right now. The big blue flow downstream of Nepopekum that was climbed at WI5 last year is in, the bottom, crux vertical section looks like it has a choice of two thin pillars to start then a long sheet of WI4 above. We weere not the first to climb Nepopekum this year there were some old tracks (last week maybe) leading to the base (Jesse M was that you?). It could stand to see more traffic. This is only about 70km from Hope so it's a lot closer than Lillooet for most of us.

Jordan I meant go and look in the book not call the counter. You live in Vancouver area and I dont. Thanks to Jordan, Forrest, Ade and Justin for updates so far.

they skin em for the fur on minx farms then sell the carcass for dog food.

minx muff is not a renewable resouce unlike sheep wool.

Yup looks like I forgot Connie's route on Tremor. I deputize you to look it up in the MEC new route book they are sick of me calling the climbing desk for info. Bear might get a V overall, I will have to consult Kearney and Beckey official sources. I have heard Dione given 16, 17 and 18 pitches in various sources. Yeah I forgot all about that Croft etc stuff in Wadd Range. Thats why I want Serl to write the main Coast range section, not me! The new route on Gilbert may be seen in the Dec. issue of Climber mag (full page photo) or online at www.alpinist.com in a pre publication note. LOOKOUT: you must suffer through unnecessary Flash 6 animation to view this site!!!

i know, timm@y should change it to something else. actually i read it in "In Style"

UIAGM has a more rigorous criterion and testing system. Look it up on their website. You dont need to be UIAGM to guide in America so not a lot of American guides get it.

Those were not insults, and were not pointless. There was VALUABLE INFORMATION there concerning aid ratings and the consequences of falling off while soloing!!!!

i hear from the fashion pages that minx fur is the most desirable muff too

UIAGM is a respected certification. AMGA is not as respected, i would say.

depends on the size fc. a short-thick kb is thicker than a long-thin bugaboo, i believe

A bugaboo is just a long knifeblade, ray (or anyone else wondering but scared to ask). I think they were called that cause when Yosemite climbers went to the Bugs for the first time they realized the cracks tended to be deeper (alpine freeze thaw & all) so they could get a longer blade into a knifeblade crack than they could in the Valley? Anyone know the truth of this? Bugabbos also make good eating utensils and hotknives, aside from climbing pro.

I have been asked by Kelly Cordes to be a regional correspondant for the AAJ and to write a short report on activity in the Coast mts over the past year. I would prefer to limit my report to the South Coast area on the assumption there are others much better qualified to discuss what went on further north in the main part of the Range. Attached please find a file listing all the new routes and (loosely defined) significant repeats I'm aware of for the South Coast over 2002 extending into the first weeks of 2003. I have also noted what activity I'm aware of from outside the south Coast area, but recognize that the latter list is seriously incomplete. If you have corrections or additions to the list, please let me know ASAP via post here or PM. Thanks. Missing from this list is any description of long new routes/FFAs on the Chief and in the Eldred Valley.arguably these could and should be included but maybe not by me. 125905-New routes 2002.doc

Ok, .08 you pedant.