Dru

My legs are still hurting, it was hard to walk up the flight of stairs to my apartment today!

Nice pics !

It was the shit, I went faster and climbed better. Definitely the right choice. Thanks Mark Twight!

Please keep me out of your perverted fantasies.

P O O P = 16 15 15 16 = 92% P O P E = 16 15 16 5= 82%

The rock had little or no protection opportunities anywhere. However, it was mostly solid enough that you could use it for hand/foot holds where a big chunk stuck out of the snow, or stemming up tight gullies. But most of it was hidden under snow and a 5mm layer of "bubble pack" ice. Cornices were minimal and avoidable. Stability was great, no avalanches or cornice fall seen or heard all day and nothing moved or made worrisome noises when climbed on. We climbed on a single 60m 8.5 mm rope and it was good. It was really a psychological gesture to rope up anyways. Aside from the tree, the anchors probably wouldnt have held a fall (half driven picket in soft snow)? Or maybe they were bomber and I was just scared for nothing.

Judging from the amount of people who do it the condition of the bolts is probably not your major concern. Well-trafficed routes tend to have adequate hardwear.

Climbed the NW Face finally on Friday with Fred Touche. Left home 5:30 AM. Left car 6AM. Bushwacked. Got to bowl at treeline c. 11:30AM. Climbed endless snow to 65 degree and easy mixed. Roped up for a couple of M3? boulder problem rockbands fortunately with THE ONLY TREE ON THE ROUTE as an intermediate belay. Reached top of rock bands ~2:30 PM. Reached top of face c. 3:30 PM. Endless descent down west ridge (great views of Slesse, sunset etc.) and followed decomissioned logging road from hell slog, back down to Bridal Falls at 9PM. Fred hiked highway back to get car. Got home c: 10:15 PM The only pro used was 2 pickets and a sling around a tree. The ice hook, 4 screws, 8 pins and 8 tri Cams stayed in the pack. I tried to do this route Marc Twight style, and consequently light. So after packing for the first time, I reread Xtreme Alpinism, then: -wore Schoeller jacket and pants ionstead of Gore tex -took light 38 litre Arcteryx pack instead of heavy BD mixed Master -took Quarks instead of Pulsars (these were surprisingly good in the snow) - wore leather boots instead of plastics -took light crampons with horizontal frontpoint and no antibotte (old strap on Grivel 2F) instead of heavy Charlet Gr8 w/antibotte -left emergency bivy gear at home in favor of extra headlamp battery I did not take GU. When I got home, I DID drink a straight shot glass full of olive oil. Washed it down with beer while soaking in the tub. I recommend this as post climb meal to everyone. As to the route, we intended to do the 2nd ascent of the Kay/Zozikyan. No idea where it goes on the face so we just followed the inobvious easiest line as much as possible . Im gonna try and get in touch with Bruce Kay and find out just exactly where they climbed. Heres a photo of the face from Spring (May) 2001. We had more but thinner snow cover. Our line went up the face on the right (right of the central buttress, IE) just right of the vague couloir that dead ends in a rock wall. The face is 2100m high from road to summit, but the first half is all bushwacking approach. The actual height gain on the technical climbing portion (where we used crampons and axes) is about 800-900m. On Saturday I got liquored up and then got out the needle and spent an hour taking devils club thorns out of my hands. Dont ever let anyone tell you winter alpinism is fun. It is nothing but suffering and misery.

I saw that. NOT ONLY THAT BUT - in the tiny print inside it announces that SHE AND HER HUSBAND HAVE JUST HAD THEIR FIRST CHILD Jon, is "Rachel Babkirk" still like the 9th most searched term still linking people to this site from Google?

I just read on rec.climbing newsgroup that Jose was killed in an accident at Potrero Chico. Jose was one of my heroes for all around trad climbing putting up big wall speed records and also hard trad like No way Jose (13d crack) and big wall free routes in the Venezuelan jungle. Im going home and to his memory.

I was thinking Space Balls too. "May the Schwartz be with you".

Papst in seinem Schlafsack crapped während der cirque Expedition mit Donna oberem Schritt. Erhalten Sie ihn einmal getrunken und Sie hören die ganze Geschichte. Ich glaube ihm tat sie, weil er eine unterbewußte Furcht vor Intimacy mit Frau hat, das seine kletternden Gleichgestellten sind. Folglich das crap im Beutel. Aber was weiß ich? Möglicherweise träumte er von den snafflehounds. Isnt Babelfish great?

das Schwartz Dwaynerisch ist nicht so groß wie grosses Lous. Folglich bezog sein einschmeichelnder Neid aller Sachen bis das grosse. Ich weiß nicht, warum Papst in seinem Schlafsack klar wird, noch ich wünsche zu jetzt.

Has any one else noticed that American Snickers has more salt, less chocolate and more vegetabloe oil than Canadian Snickers? I used to wonder why americans call them "candy bars" and Canadians call them Chocolate bars, until i realized that the American ones, have minimal chocolate in them.

Yogic Flying.

I will climb alpine on Friday and report back here on Saturday before the next front moves in.

I had a Petzl Tikka before my Rockies trip and now I don't. If any one of Snoboy, Erik, Danimal, Wallstein or Specialed, or Notgotmoney or Jeff for that matter, find it, please let me know.

He shoulda hired AlpineK and Biodeisel power not some Vietnamese-American clearcutter who cannot now be found.

Images of people TRing doing the dishes?

Last time I noticed Snoboy was from Canada too, even though he has a British passport.

I guess everyone reads the same Savage Love columns.

Its probably near Negro Lesbian and Black Dyke, I would think from the name.

Either specialed lost one of his Axars at the base of Polar Circus, or the Canmore doo-rag wearer who sold us the 0.5 oz stole it.

Im not that old. But they used beef tallow in em up until a year or two ago, and advertised them as vegetarian nonetheless. Some British Hindus sued (cow is sacred eh) and won big time $$$ payout. Take that, evil clown! Oh yes,

Note the two everest Uncorked events (first weekend) will overlap date-wise with the Ice Fest.