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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. Here's ours for the south coast: South Coast Region WEATHER: Although the weather is so bad that most observers can not record anything but avalanche deposits at valley bottom, one summed the weather events of the last few days up nicely. “This is the worst weather we have seen this winter”, read the report. The weather forecast predicts strong winds, further warming and up to 150 mm of additional precipitation for the latter part of the week. SNOWPACK: Many areas had a weak wind slab before the storm began, which will be buried down as much as 100 cm by now. In areas slightly inland, a layer of faceted snow formed during the cold snap that preceeded this storm. This weakness, now under as much as 100 cm of storm snow, has begun to fail. A surface hoar layer down about 150 cm may become active as well, so look for that in snow pits and test it’s strength if found. AVALANCHES: Observers that did make it out for a look in the field today reported widespread natural activity in the alpine at treeline, with some slides running full path into valley bottom. Although it could not be determined which layer was failing, the storm snow and the faceted layer just below are suspected. FORECAST OF AVALANCHE DANGER UP TO FRIDAY EVENING (March 14th) ALPINE - Extreme TREELINE - Extreme BELOW TREELINE – High, areas of Extreme TRAVEL ADVISORY: The weather forecast predicts this storm will continue to deliver moisture and raise freezing levels for the rest of the week. Avalanche danger is near the top of the scale and still increasing. The CAA, with financial assistance from the BC Provincial Emergency Program, has been publishing extra-ordinary bulletins this week to provide additional information during this fast paced and very dangerous period. Check www.avalanche.ca daily this week for possible updates to this bulletin. How does it stack up against Washington's?? The S coast one is always pretty conservative since they are trying to give one forecast for everything from waddington, to whistler back country, joffre lakes, south chilcotins, to hope. wondering if Wash pases etc are predicted as more stable?
  2. "Fraser" note spelling, is pretty low. Most of its drainage area is still snowing right now eh. It is a much bigger river than the Columbia, and drains more northerly latitudes.
  3. Beastie Boys have a new anti war single out. "In a World Gone Mad"
  4. those are NOT the Bugaboos.
  5. Dru

    Bavarianization

    I figured it was the moment of realizing the phrase directed against you was an insult (epithet).
  6. those heel spurs could cause serious damage to your ass and lower back and knees!!
  7. Dru

    sprayin canadian

    stefan is bumming my trip. MODERATORS!!!
  8. Dru

    Cascade Villains

    actually the devil referred to the longest seam on the ships hull. thus the devil to pay suppoisedly refers to the duty of hanging in a long sling off the side while the ship is carreened, scraping barnacles and caulking this seam. both stories are probably bullshit actually. THE DEVIL. you know, the guy with horns. none of this plank bullshit, they were Satanists!!
  9. Dru

    Cascade Villains

    bolters-on of holds and chippers at chossil rock, deception crags etc bolters of cracks at vantage and elsewhere
  10. hey dfa, your point about aid being trickery, and chipped requiring strength is off the wall... and as for saying that chipped is not aid cause monodoights are harder to hold onto than draws are, that is like saying if you back clean A3 it makes it a5 chipped is still, taking a piece of rock you cannot free climb, and altering it so you can climb it in other words, aid climbing french free is french free whether you grab a draw, or a cam, or a bolted on plastic hold, or a chipped hold, no matter what size the aid piece is, big or small, or how hard it is for you to hold on to it i have seen, more than once, describing alpine routes "the pitch was freed because it was too hard to aid" which invalidates your theory... the size of the hold or difficulty of the hold does not change the fact it is AID, AID, AID: using artificial means of progression. still now you can claim first ascent of some a3's right!!!
  11. phoenix was never nailed it was where jardine practiced hangdogging on friends until he sent sphinx crack never nailed either but was intentiionally created shaped dynamite charge colorado school of mines maybe climbing sphinx crack is buildering.
  12. aid climbing free climbing different games diffferent rules rock damage = ok for aid not ok for free if you wanna damage rock or use chipped holds then dont pretend you are free climber is this argument circular enough yet?
  13. coquihalla got 156 cm of new fri aft - sun eve and i bet 140 cm of that has melted by now...
  14. so retire those biners after you have taken 190 factor 2 falls on them...that is called margin of safety
  15. "Sorry, but half-pad two-finger pockets (or however big the chipper chipped them) are very much harder to grab than a big aluminum handle." Dumb argument. Both artificial. Or are you arguing for a A3 rating like for long string of bathooks? Nailing only incidentally scars the rock. Like climbing on quarried rock, it is chipping only in the sense it is human-altered, not in the sense of HOLD MANUFACTURED TO MAKE CLIMBING EASIER. But the Nose IS chipped due to stupid Jardine traverse, which is why only sporto like Yuji, and crackhead like Scott Burke, will try to free it. According to Alex Huber, because it uses chipped holds, it has not yet been free climbed. I say he's right. Lynn Hills ascent was impressive but "free", naw.
  16. is that what its called? i forgot about the lava tubes at skeleton cave too except i can never find the same one twice, and last time the sherriff busted us for intending to disturb bats...
  17. Dru

    SO ANY WAY

    isnt the carpal tunnel that weird lane that switches directions and goes underground through seattle?
  18. and the john day fossil beds!! and that bookstore in portland, the big used one.
  19. Dru

    SO ANY WAY

    does that mean you are gonna become a practicing massagynist?
  20. they are A0, like pulling on a draw. is this called "freedom free" now?
  21. heavy snow year lots of lingering instability right now as for why, cause it is way more direct (like 10km shorter) and faster, and less crevasse travel (scramble up 4th class rock instead)
  22. when the boots are on over top of the skin tight black jeans, you HAVE to take the boots off to get the jeans off
  23. back on the subject of oregon adventures, go to the coast, take the elevator down into Sea Lion Caves, boulder out of the cave without a sea lion biting your dangling appendages or without passing out from the smell
  24. when i was 18 i thought the sexiest shoes any chic could wear were 18 hole oxblood Doc Martens... but damn they take a long time to take off
  25. imagine being in the semi. those things don't have built in pieps y'know!!
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