Dru

I guess Pope is getting weird with other people's mothers. His title I guess speaks for itself. The Catholic Church is fighting its image as a sex clinic for men, so Pope adds to the image. So Sad. I take my name from Clement Pope, the goofy spy in The Eiger Sanction.

Cause its a tech tip in the latest magazine issue.

Since the top rope fall factor is about 0.01, I dont think it matters much if the rope is static or dynamic. In the climbing gym I used to work at we used to take "demo falls" as part of the intro to climbing session, and fall on about 10 feet of slack on about 50 feet of static rope out of the roof of the lead cave... 0.2 fall factor - no problem. After all a Gri Gri is a 100% static belay anyways. But I'd be scared to take a lead fall on one. Its not the force on YOU thats the problem, its the force on the pro... statics rip out even bomber gear, and/or break biners, with a large fall factor......

get real, you are gonna spend $100 for a rope you can only use for top roping. unless you are a guide with a lot of bumbly clients,. NO WAY. as for the knot thing, have never bothered.

HUH? those who apply the skills of an over protective mother to the posts on this site... in some cases setting up an moderated separate forum that then sits dead for lack of interest... I guess Dan Howett's dog is still learning how to type.

Coles Notes Version: Retro, Cavey and Will Strickland did the deed and restored it to gear route status. The first bolt was a 1/2" job that may still be there half chopped? Particular of note is that Strickland, after making posts on this thread that seemed less than 100% in favour of chopping, drove all the way up from Portland to help out with the crowbar action. There used to be a pictrure of Retro and the Love Bar on the Alpinelite.com front page. It might still be there in the Index somewhere. Actually there's a whole other thread about the chopping on this site somewhere. Do a search.

it is rumoured he is shooting Iraqi and eating MRE right now. hey Mike if you are over there dont get killed

motherators?

this thread is an all time classic. where is its like today? 2001: the Golden Age of Spray when Jurassic reptiles like mikeadam still posted regularly. Bring on more battlecage and less moderation.

i should clarify this was an established 5.9 route at Harrison Bluffs that i had already climbed in 96 when it was freshly cleaned... i think its harder to aid than to free due to the thin face climbing up a seam at the bottom below the bolt, however, given the wet & mossy nature, aid was good. harrison bluffs are like the Bulletheads, if the bulletheads rose out of a mosquito ridden, skunk cabbage swamp. it was kinda popular in the mid 90s but i honestly think no one has really climbed there for about 2 years. whole crag is mossing over amazingly fast. lots of potential new routes but you have to ask yourself if the effort required to clean just to have it grow over is worth it. good place to go aid soloing though.

but now the parties that get caught by darkness and rap down will not leave booty in the form of 6 2-cam anchors!!!!!!

drunk before noon = lush

yeah but you have to live in California

yesterday was dry so they tacked the rain that was supposed to fall then onto today.

have never needed a pair. dont buy em unless you need em. a podiatrist can check & see if you need them if you have the $$$$ otherwise try it if your feet and legs hurt.

I believe the actual height of the Death Zone is defined as halfway up whatever peak you are writing your post trip chest beating narrative for. "At 2000 foot elevation on Mt. Si, we chewed on our Exxxxxtreme horsecock, tightened the laces on our plastic boots, wrote our wills, and wet our pants, for we were about to enter the Death Zone, the altitude above which one in 3 mountaineers perishes horribly" etc. etc.

Aid soloing. Hooks, crack n ups, RPs, bolt. Bomber cam flake. Roof. Moss, dirt. Ushba. Wet slimy. Fell twice cleaning. 5.9. Peregrine nesting nearby. Saw Mom kill starlings, feed to chicks. Cool. Also a couple bald eagles around. Also 10, 000+ mosquitoes. Welcome, spring. Rain started as I finished. First time back on rock since fall. Scary at first. Good.

On this day in History.... 28 March. In 1979 there was a serious accident at the Three Mile Island nuclear plant in Pennsylvania, and although no meltdown occurred, public opinion began to turn against the whole American nuclear industry. In the film The China Syndrome, made before the incident, a character remarks that a cloud of waste could wreak death and destruction over 'an area the size of Pennsylvania.' Earlier in the year, a local magazine had run a fictional story called Meltdown at Three Mile Island, and they even got the date right - 28 March.

only monkey i got is the brass one .

has reading the monkey's paw scarred you for life or something? in canada we do not spank monkeys. we ground them for a week and tell them earnestly why they should not be bad!

are you referring to the monkey on my back? maybe it went to get me more beeer