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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. i think if you want true "multi function" you should forget about pants and get a kilt
  2. Dru

    Gore Points

    i believe it is all your fault and you are radiating some form of bad juju force
  3. Only partly true. Lowe had used a spring loaded cam in a climbing devise (early 70s). Jardine admits to using Lowe's concept. BUT concept only. Jardine's devise was far more refined that Lowe's, that's why it was copied by everyone else and is still with use today. Lowe did sue. But it was ruled that he could not patent the cam portion of the devise. Cams have been around to long. Jardine's devise was different enough, in other ways, to win the case. He got the patent. Every other cam manufacturer has used basically the same concept as Jardine's. He could not sue Chouinard for the Camalot design even though only the double-axle was new. Give credit where credit is due. chris (sorry for the subject drift) i read somewhere that lowe stole the cam idea in turn from vitaly abalakov who had experimented with prototypes of eccentrically rotating protection in the 1950's or something and showed them to lowe at an exchange meet.... of course i also read in a biographical piece on lowe where he said abalakov stole the idea from him.... in fact Lowe has invented a lot of weird stuff but aside from the TRICAM not a lot of it is very good. mostly the refinement made by someone else is what has caught on. Footfangs were the shit for a while but no longer. Some of the "new" lowe inventions like the SBG belay device and Tri-Nuts strike me as silly.
  4. i am seeing a lot of vegetation must be somewhere in the PNW.
  5. i got broken into twice with BC plates in both cases in the MEC area. dumb junkies but probably couldve been avoided by not having anything in view in my car. i got BC plates stolen off my car once in a motel in northern Nevada
  6. Climb: Skaha-clip ups and cracks Date of Climb: 3/27/2004 Trip Report: Went to Skaha with Mer and Steve. Climbed a lot of gaper routes. Steve and Mer played rope gun I hardly led anything. Drank a bunch of beer, ate a bunch of bagels. Sunny and cold on Saturday sunny and warm on Sunday. Not too busy at all. One tick and no rattlesnakes. Found a #3 Wild Country Rock lying in some bushes (booty ). Saw some actual good climbers attempting some actually hard type routes but successfully avoided anything too hard ourselves. Successful excuses used: "You should lead this cause its a classic and it is your fist time at Skaha, I wouldn't want to blow your chance to onsight it." "It is too windy to climb this balancy arete - I might get blown off" "Let's go climb in the sun instead." "It's a perfect style for you to lead." "If we walk out this way maybe we will see a rattlesnake." Gear Notes: gear bolts draws beer Subaru friend's house for cush bivy Approach Notes: Subaru trail the famous stairs (now half gone)
  7. how can iain not have jumped all over this by now? it's been HOURS! HOURS! do i have to do everything myself?
  8. Fred Beckey - first dirtbag
  9. Dru

    Book recommendations

    viscomte de bragelonne is part of the man in the iron mask/ 20 years after sequels to 3 musketeers but it is the full meal deal not the abridged 1-bbok volume most people read. chicot the jester is a 2 volume series about one of the henri's jesters. i thought it was pretty good. musketeer type swordplay and so on.
  10. i recall Tommy said his picture would never appear in said mag again after Climbing ran Bouchard's article. he got upset someone didn't believe his story as his word!
  11. Dru

    Book recommendations

    i have already read comte de monte cristo, three musketeerrs, vicomte de bragelonne, vingt ans apres and the "chicot the jester" serries of dumas but not in french - that'd be too much. i can read vertical mag. cause it has nice pictures but i haven't read french novels since high school
  12. it vanishes beyond the "event horizon"
  13. a little irish rasta "O'doight, mon!"
  14. there always the plastic-bag newspaper and cardboard-box method perfected by the homeless. having copious body hair and not washing apparently helps too (insulating grease layer)
  15. i believe it was posted somewhere on here that the first 3 pitches of the baring route have suffered from rockfall and may not exist in their old state anymore. which just makes it harder
  16. Dru

    insurgents

    didn't erik used to be an insurgent adjuster?
  17. yeah i would not want to be climbing "redlining the fun meter" in the upper sumallo with that avvy forecast and a 1500m high face looming above
  18. Dru

    Book recommendations

    oh yeah all you alexandre dumas readers should check out the khaavren books by steven brust. brust is the only moden author i have ever read who writes anything like dumas (by way of tom stoppard...)
  19. Dru

    Book recommendations

    hey throw that benson/green bugs guide away and get the real deal by atkinson and piche! more peaks, more routes, better topos etc
  20. I bet if I had one of those bolt guns that Stallone had in Cliffhanger I could AID it. After all, AID is still climbing. Oh no, that's right, Chouinard says bouldering is not climbing. Further, I bet Dan could not only do it, but become the first to speed climb a V12. OK enough kidding. I think it takes a lot of everything to send a V12. Trainining in technique and physical as well as mental. And yes, you need to have some natural ability in my mind. But then again, maybe I'm just weak-minded? what's the slowest anyone's ever done a V12 - 30 seconds?
  21. i tally it up on the virtual abacus program iain sent me
  22. ya but even in the cdn rockies, say, more people have redpointed existence mundane 14b than have climbed the north face of north twin lowe-jones, or the stump/logan on robson...not for lack of trying... the hardest route is the one which WITH ALL FACTORS COMBINED including weather, approach, conditions, technical difficulty etc becomes the most difficult to successfully complete. and if no one at ALL has completed it (long whore) then it can't be a "hardest route" yet more like a project... a route has to have been done at least once. speaking of unrepeated routes has anyone ever repeated those russian exchange routes, one is on n face inspiration and the other is on bonanza i think?
  23. How many kilometerstones would that be? kilometers are a modern system of measurement. we don't use stones. kilometer markers are made of titanium and carbon fibre and high tech like
  24. well no shit!!!! i wouldnt get into the hot tub with tammy faye naked either Tammy Faye Messner? MESSNER???? Lookout Reihhold!!!
  25. Dru may be too busy posting to get this. its down to 3 of 8 now hey king of freshish double meow
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