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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. they don't need stairs, just cement in place all the climbers dogs', goats, packs etc. and they will have enviro control using only native materials.
  2. Dru

    PRANK CALL TIME

    Is the website work safe Is the phone number work safe for that matter?
  3. Hah they must not have like the bandwidth drain. The pocket glacier below Slesse's east face doesn't cataclysmically slide, producing an ice avalanche into the basin below, every year. When it does, it usually goes in July or August. This year it was a month early. When the pocket glacier is gone it is much easier and safer to get to the Bypass Variation start than otherwise.
  4. If there are a bunch of people ahead of you do Overexposure instead. You will pass them all. If the tricky move gives trouble, just tie your rope to a passing goat and tell it there's urine in the future if it can rope gun the crux for ya.
  5. remember if your soap opera is boring you, you can always post it online so people you don't know can make fun of you too
  6. The Unimog needs a repair
  7. no it was on a page that also had the neruda ode to wine.
  8. Dru

    werd

    I will admit while I have the word power to rhyme with the individual words silver, purple, month and orange, I cannot write a relevant 4-word poem to do so. But silver orange purple month is itself pretty meaningless And on the grounds of surrealism Elver doorhinge nurple fronth Is undeniably poetic.
  9. I happened to be searching for a specific quote online and by accident came across some Charlie Brown zen wisdom that might be applicable to this situation "Nothing takes the flavour out of peanut butter like unrequited love." Of course, peanut butter is a controlled substance in Canada, which only adds to the problem!
  10. there's a eating nuts on the next step
  11. daisy chains rock, tying in with the rope sucks. thats fundamental. not that it matters but evidence of the diversity of opinion on this subject, while possibly confusing, can only be of ultimate benefit for the newbies reading this thread.
  12. tying in with rope uses up rope you could be using to stretch out a pitch also it makes it harder to escape the belay under some circumstances finally, for single pitch cragging the only times you need anchors are 1) anchor belayer to the ground or 2) when threading rope for rappel at top of pitch. in both of these circumstances daisy or sling is better anchor than using rope.
  13. Dru

    werd

    no shit sherlock
  14. What jk said and also like Freedom of the Hills or the John Long instructional book(s) to read for when you want a second opinion on something you saw at the crag or that someone didn't explain well.
  15. with choss like that it must be a volcano
  16. Daisy are better than a single sling in my opinion but for the new climber I would advocate spending the extra $$$ and buying a Metolius PAS (personal anchor system) this is a version of the daisy with full strength loops all the way along. Of course you can make a home made daisy with supertape and tie a couple of water knots but these have a higher incidence of tangling on things in my experience and always seem to be the wrong length when you need to use them.
  17. We took a right after crossing the bridge and drove up that road about a km ,then took a left at the last fork and parked at end of that spur. After bushwacking for 20 minutes we came out on the road we would have driven up if we had gone right at the last fork , followed that for 500m to its end and then from the end of that road it took us an hour to treeline and the start of the scrambling. Coming out the trail via the lakes was sooo overgrown we couldnt even really find a tread to follow.
  18. Dru

    Trade Shows

    isn't a "trade show" one step up the wipeout scale from a "yard sale" in terms of gear spread all over the fuckin place
  19. Climb: Sloan-NE ridge Date of Climb: 7/17/2004 Trip Report: Snoboy and I climbed this route in a day return from Squamish. Alpine Select says "fast parties" can do so so I guess that means we are a fast party. I had been on Sloan twice before and in the area 3x before. It's pretty cool up there. First time in I got rained off the NE ridge at start of the rock/end of the forest. Second time I soloed the NW ridge after crossing the N face glacier. Third time was with stemalot and jordop on Mt Land. Still hadn't done NE ridge so this, my 4th trip, was specifically with that in mind. This is a pretty good route, not "great" but pretty good. I had fun anyways. It took us about 4 hours up from the car. The rock quality features lots of shattered blocks in some places, solid in others. Looking at the ridge from the start you think the first half is going to be the hardest then easy scrambling to the summit. But in fact the hardest climbing is all in the second half of the route. The rating for this one is supposed to be 4th class by easiest line, 5th class if you stick to the ridge crest. I did do a little bit of 5.8 on the ridge crest but backed down because the 4th class bypass option was much faster. We didnt take or use a rope, if you did a short one would be ideal because the longest section you'd pitch out would be like 20m. Helmets are good. On summit we decided to go down via Ault Lakes rather than reverse the ridge. I think this option (Ault Lakes) is a faster descent, esp if you already know the area. We took the second gully west of the west summit and this is the one that will be in the new scrambling guide when Matt gets it out. The gully I had used before (first one west of west summit) still had snow in it and would have been tricky glissading in mtn. masters. Time round trip from Squamish (including pie and coffee stops in P'town and Whistler) was ~14 hours. Left with a super alpine start sometime just after 8 AM, back in Squamish just after 10 PM Gear Notes: helmets Approach Notes: Ault Cr. road now goes to km 8, save time on approach but have to hike back to get car
  20. buy your own rope
  21. Dru

    cams and nuts

    camming nut eating
  22. Dru

    EcoTopia

    try buying purely range fed beef. just try. on the other hand, mutton is purely range fed. and you can feed pigs inedible swill.
  23. Dru

    EcoTopia

    it might work if you were a kittiwake, but you are too fat to fly.
  24. Dru

    EcoTopia

    it's about 10x more efficient to feed grain directly to people than it is to feed grain to cows and then feed steaks to people.
  25. please do not post lycra pictures
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