Dru

I looked up that face on XXXXXXXX Fred was mentioning, in Don's Wadd book. It looks pretty good!

I'm certain there is a link between BMI and calories. Can someone please elaborate?

Don't miss one of Doug Scott's only 2 stops in Canada this year- this is a rare opportunity, in support of a good cause! British pioneering mountaineer Doug Scott is in town with a brand new slideshow, Sacred Summits - Sacred Moments. Scott was the first British person to climb Mt. Everest by the notoriously difficult South West face, and holds the record for the highest bivouac ever survived without oxygen (8748m) along with climbing partner Dougal Haston. His climb of the Ogre in Pakistan has also become legendary after he broke both legs in a fall and was forced to crawl down over a number of days with his horrible injuries. Doug Scott has recorded dozens of first ascents and has summited over 40 peaks all over the world without oxygen since the Ogre episode. He was made a Commander of the British Empire, and in 1999 received the Royal Goegraphic Society Patron's God Medal. The Sacred Summits presentation will cover mountaineering topics and the challenges of changing the world of alpine tourism into one that treats porters on expeditions more ethically. Climbs to be covered include Everest SW Face, Kangchenjunga North Ridge, Shivling East Pillar, and Carstenz New Guinea. Today, Doug Scott devotes his life to hlpiing the people of Nepal through his charitable organization 'Community Action Nepal'. For the August 6th presentation, there will be no speaker fees. All funds from the Sacred Summits slideshow will go towards a rescue and medical post for mountain and trekking porters in the Everest region that is a joint project of Community Action Nepal and International Porter Protection Group. Tickets are $10 at the door - cash only - and the show starts at 7pm. There are numerous door and draw prizes, and the event is sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op. Sacred Summits: Friday, August 6th, 7:00 pm, HR Macmillan Space Centre Auditorium (1100 Chestnut St., W of Burrard St. and N of Cornwall St.) Admission $10 at the door. Doug Scott is the guy who told Greg Child "You'll never find enlightenment on a full stomach" on their 2nd day without food on Shivling

what did they make that composite from, oil? hmmmm how many board feet did Saudi Arabia ship this year?

but the bottom 1/3 of the east face is hidden in freds photo.

once you hydrate you will still have lost weight a confounding factor is that the body burns at a higher metabolic rate when at higher elevations! edit i can't believe someone actually took my e=mc^2 suggestion seriously!

if you free solo it its all the first pitch

so the REAL dates to vote for are not october 8-10 but october 9-11

I honestly thought the route we climbed was not going to go until we got onto it. It looked pretty shitty from the loose choss of Tal North. But it was actually mostly solid rockand the loose stuff was just perched on ledges. There were lots of solid holds and good face cracks for pro. The NE ridge or buttress is roughly 3000'/1000m from base to summit. The East and SE faces are both about 4000'. The east face has similar rock to the NE ridge. The East Pillar has a steeper start than the NE ridge and might give 5.10 climbing. The SE face has a couple options for long climbs on what looks like the best rock on the mountain. The north face with the hanging glaciers just has lots of rock fall and looks fucking scary but maybe it could be good in the springtime? Aside from our climb and the standard route we downclimbed it is all unclimbed so if you are one of the whiners saying "All the good lines were climbed years ago" go get some!

what dates are thanksgiving?

fred sez he's not working all that hard on this one atythe moment so there's plenty of time to get those summer first ascents in the book. you can search this site for user name beckey and send an email direct to fred using the email address found therein if you dont feel like posting helpful beta directly to this thread. in fact, fred never reads this thread - but his helpful minions do occasionally. or just send beta to the email mattp posted above.

never seen cascade jewels but what about a few cascade nugs on mcKinely?

i bet guy did it naked too

weigh yourself before and after, and figure out how much weight you lost. now calories are energy so e=mc^2, multiply the mass you lost by the speed of light squared to find out the energy in calories and remember one nutritional Calorie is actually a kilocalorie or 1000 scientific calories.

when you have to cut down a 2000 year old Old Growth Cedar with your alpenstock to cross a raging river, Munday style, you will be glad you went with the extra 25cm of shaft length. its the difference between a hatchet and an axe.

looks like the finish to genius loci at the top of the left side - no i haven't done it either!

cross link to really big housecat thread!

Does your horsecock cam or is it passive only?

There were about 50 napkins plus 10 plastic and 20 paper bags filched from Save On Foods. The pointy bit in the sunset photo is Hyperion, one of the Borealis Peaks. It's even more impressive when you see the whole thing (slides being developed)

Climb: Talchako Mountain-Northeast Ridge/Butt Date of Climb: 7/28/2004 Trip Report: Ray Borbon, James Nakagami, Fred Beckey and I went in to Talchako Mountain (3037m/9970') which is SE of Bella Coola and N of Mt Monarch. Ray had planned the whole trip and in fact had been bombarding me with pictures of Talchako for almost a year. Matt Perkins was supposed to come too but bailed at the last minute, due to some old skiing injury I believe. Ray, James and Fred arrived July 23. We went to the bar in Chilliwack. James and I got drunk and Fred liked our waitress. He asked in a loud voice if she was a "typical Chilliwack farm girl." Saturday July 24 we drove in Ray's Jeep and my Subaru to Bella Coola. This took about 12 hours. On the drive the smoke from forest fires was so thick that you could see the giant sunspot on the sun with the naked eye without squinting. In Hagensborg James and I got drunk in the bar again. We bivied by the old cannery site. There were amazing, wild, unbelievable strobe-light techno flashing aurora borealis in the night sky. It was my 32nd birthday Sunday July 25 we met Richard Lapointe of West Coast Helicopters and were flown in to Talchako in Richard's monster A-Star. The HUMVEE of helicopters. We could have even hauled in 200 lbs more of gear and food if we had wanted to! Basecamp was at 5400' SE of Talchako on a lake-dotted region of knolls. We had a super base camp site with 2 lakes within walking distance, good views of a huge forest fire to the east in Tweedsmuir Park, and hordes of hungry insects. Monday July 25. We were packed and ready to go. However Fred had a back injury and was feeling some pain so we decided to instead go on a recon mission. Ray and I set out for "Talchako North" a 2500m/8500' peak north of Talchako across a glacier to get some views of our route. We climbed the easternmost of Tal North's 4 summits in a 12 hour jaunt from basecamp via a class 4 scrambling route with some soloing through cliff bands. Our intended route on Talchako looked very impressive. We could not get to the other 3 summits of TN (all probably unclimbed) due to a steep gap and Ray's forgetting his harness not to mention running out of time on what was supposed to be a 5 hour recon mission only. East face from the moraines with NE ridge/butt facing camera. North face from Tal North with the NE ridge/butt obvious at left catching sun. Tuesday dawned incredibly smoky due to a wind shift. Visibility was 50 feet or less for most of the day. Ray, James and Fred all rested. I hiked south to examine Ratcliff. Crossing the river to Ratcliff looked insane so we regretfully bid adieu to Plan B and focussed all attention on Talchako. Ratcliff through the morning smoke. Wednesday morning we got up at 4 AM and set off. Fred was still hurting and stayed behind to read and practice yoga. James, Ray and I made the 4 hour death march approach through clouds of bugs and loose moraines then started climbing up Talchako's NE ridge. We climbed 16 pitches that day. The first 10 pitches or so were 5th class up to 5.7 and then there were about 6 pitches that were more 4th class-ish but we pitched them out due to the presence of wet rock and loose debris on ledges. James and Ray wore rock shoes for some of the climbing. The 5th pitch with James belaying and Ray climbing ahead of me. Ray getting water on some chossy but pretty-coloured ledges on the 14th pitch James working up the edge of the ice arete on the 16th pitch. On about p. 14 we started hitting icy snow patches and had some mixed climbing going on. At the end of the nominal P 16 (actually after about 18 or 19 pitches including shorter ones, but all lengths have been standardized to 60 m pitch lengths) about 6 PM we hit a super ledge and decided it was too good to pass up and bivied there. Dinner was "biftek" and other delicacies and the sunset was rad. Ray eating biftek at the bivi. Lights out.... The night was very cold and shivery and went on far too long. In the morning first light saw building clouds so drill sargeant Ray got us moving ASAP and we climbed about 11 more full pitches of rock and ice aretes up to 55-60 degrees to gain Talchako's eastern summit. The crux was a loose 5.8 chimney and there were several more pitches of 5.7-5.8 in this upper section. We traversed from the eastern summit to the central and western summits in search of a descent route. Also we found the summit register on the central summit. We may have made the 5th or 6th ascent of this peak, there were only 3 entries in the register and one other documented climb we know of, but it could have been climbed in spring when the cairn is under snow. Also there is some evidence the local Nuxalk and Ulkatcho did vision quests or something up here way back in the pre- European contact days. Going down! The descent went down about 4000' of downclimbing and scree ledges. There was one icy section to cross. Once we got to the base of the descent we had to do a traverse around the mountain back to camp. One section with a steep gully to cross was pretty tricky route finding. We made it back to camp around 7 PM. Fred gave up his yoga and break dancing practice long enough to make us some dinner. Fred busts a move. In asana yoga this is called the Horsecock Pose. Friday and Saturday involved rest, recuperation and swatting horeseflies. We ate a lot and hiked around near camp taking photos. James and I did some fun cragging on a half-pitch outcrop near camp climbing some good face routes up to 10a. Sunday we flew out and had a victory dinner. James and Ray blitzed it for home that night. Fred and I bivied near Williams Lake and got back here near noon today. The NE ridge of Talchako is about 27x60m pitches long, we climbed it in about 29-30 pitches but some were short. The hardest rock moves were 5.8. The ice aretes at the top were only about 50 degrees along the crest but due to taking too many pickets and not enough screws we avoided most of them on adjacent rock, however this meant we did have to climb some steeper ice up to 55-60 degrees on the flanks of the arete in a few spots. The overall rating is probably Alpine TD, YDS V 5.8. One knifeblade was left in place at the 18th belay. Looking SW from the summit to Princess Mountain... lots more to do! Gear Notes: light rack with 6 pins and nuts and cams to 2.5" three screws - should have taken 6 one ice axe and one third tool each - two technical tools would have been better 3 pickets - useless, could have been left in camp no rappels so the 20m of rap webbing was only used for bivi padding! Approach Notes: West Coast Helicopters A-Star, $750CDN a person 4 hr moraine slog from base camp

The Germans were confused and mistook the area for the Kichatna Spires. They werent much help at all.

i just escaped from fred by shutting and locking my front door in an hour or so i can go out with a can of lysol and disinfect the passenger seat!

its a microwave tower next time do the north ridge traverse and descend the sw ridge for the best 5 hours of granite scrambling out there!

I just got back. The Helicopter approach from the Bogus Mtn. Mine via the Mt. Beaujeste area renders the bushwack nuncupatory.