Dru

I did find this on bivouac, south ridge in center, east ridge at right.

not scanned sorry. it's 3rd class with some 4th at the top, you downclimb it after doing the s ridge.

you can't see the east ridge in the photo, that is the NW side. Space Buttress IV 5.12+ A0 takes the overhanging arete at the right.

Saw a Mr E style white Eurovan yesterday with a stupid yin-yang and it said "That was Zen this is Tao" on it. Somewhere out there, someone thought that was funny enough to make into a bumper sticker

you should think about east ridge of gimli, and the wolfs ears to dag traverse. the northwest ridge of gimli is a monster. here it is

the only guidebook is the black "columbia Mts of Canada - West and South" AAC/ACC book which i believe is out of print. try abebooks.com

is steve snyder related to erik snyder... does the conspiracy penetrate to the heart of cascadeclimbers.com?

get ahold of john baldwin's book he has some advice in there about how to air drop. just don't put your food and fuel in the same package or canned foods in with soft foods cause the can will tunnel through the bag of rice. in the spring you are dropping into several feet of soft snow which is magically plabalicious for catching things

I think it is?

actually it's a parliament of owls, and an unkindness of ravens and a chattter of muffys

http://www.cougardate.com

Impacts Gruber, S., M. Hoelzle and W. Haeberli. 2004. Permafrost thaw and destabilization of Alpine rock walls in the hot summer of 2003. GRL 31, L13504, doi: 10.1029/2004GL020051, 2004. Gruber et al. consider whether the unusual summer of 2003 in Europe is an indicator of things to come under climate change. The summer of 2003 was ~3°C warmer in Switzerland than the 1961-90 average and this coincided with exceptional rock fall activity, especially at high elevations and on north-facing slopes. In the absence of unusual precipitation or other possible effects on slope stability, the authors hypothesize that rapid degradation of mountain permafrost is the likely cause. They investigated this hypothesis using observations of air and near surface temperature in steep rock faces in an energy balance model to simulate summer thaw for the period 1982-2002 and compared it to 2003 rates. The modelled thaw of 2003 exceeded the maximum of the previous 21 years. , Authors conclude that these findings are cause for concern with respect to future warming, suggesting that the locations, magnitudes and frequencies of rock wall instabilities are likely to expand beyond the ranges of historic variability. This instability has implications for infrastructure, tourism and public safety in alpine ranges. Better buy a new helmet...

booty

a big bro at the lip of the roof prevents the roof crack from eating your rope there are some alpine climbs they work great on... also useful at J-tree.... the #1 is way too small, the #2 Ok, the #3 the best one, and the #4 is too big except for real specific situations - IMHO and i don't own any either

Ade did you find any burkshards or "hanging" cornices ( I didnt know there were any other kind? ) on your 6000m summits or do you think these hazards are only found in the DEATH ZONE

"somebody" fixed lines on the 2 pitch bush approach at the start of St Vitus Dance around the time Calculus Crack was scrubbed and they were gone within the week

oh and a bumble of Mountaineers

i just spent the last two days heli-cragging and heli-bouldering cork boots are aid!

a RACK of climbers and a PAD of spotters

up to 3 days

Don't harsh my mellow You unpleasant fellow Or I shall bellow

No, I am curious, yellow

where is the digital clinometer download and 3 witnesses?

i was referring to the invisible, weighs-nothing freesolo rope, i got mine on a pro deal from satan

i always use a daisy chain to attach myself to an anchor and i have been climbing for 15 years i have taken factor-2 falls onto a daisy chain dangerous habits! my oh my that said I'd get a PAS too.