TimL

Get well soon ML. Chicago...I'm in Chicago right now till Friday. Why in the hell would you want to come here? Its friggin flat.

Your so right. the top out is one of the best. ****

Right on jrb. We were the party of 3 that topped out after you guys on the Stanley/Burgner SF route.. What a stellar climb. We brought a set of nuts, singles to 4 and doubles in .75, 1, 2. If you brought a 3.5 and 4.5 you could use it, but IMO it would be extra weight. Our group in no way was running out pitches and we had plenty of pro for each pitch and belay. Just some general things about the route that might be interesting to others. The route is set up to bail from the last pitch. You can pretty much find natural anchors for each pitch. The descent off the back is still snow covered. At the start of the 3rd pitch start up a corner and go right across chicken heads into a shallow gulley/chimney. I can see were people can get off route here. I thought all the pitches were supper good except the last. Nothing was particularly strenuous or hard for the grade, but I would like to add it is fairly serious for a 5.9. I thought the first 130 feet last pitch sucked. Basically, you climb up this corner with an 8-10 inch crack with a bunch of loose blocks wedged in it. And of course, you use the blocks for hand hold, some foot holds and pro so use your imagination. The Last 20 feet had the good climbing. Great steep jamming, good stemming and even a place to milk a good rest before the final moves. Glad I finally did the route with good company. I'll definitely climb it again.

Matt - Looking over to the general area of CBR from the top of Prusik it looked like there was still a fair amount of snow in the area. I know there was still a fair amount of snow around Prusik. Good thing is it was all soft last weekend.

RuMR - that was funny watch you lead upper Sag. You sent!

Thanks all the Prusssik beta. scotty, thats for teaching me how to spell prusssssik peak. I learn raanier next.

Anybody climb Prussik last weekend or hike in the area? Wondering if the SF has any snow on it. Any and all info will be greatly appreciated!

This really sucks.

Anybody been in to do the Mt. Maude NF this year? Any beta on the approach or conditions would be much appreciated.

Blight - If its the 2 cats I'm thinking of, of course they finished it thru Hyperspace. I think for one its his 2nd time getting punished on the route!

gimme the dirty beta how long of a hike is it up to the wall o' dirt

Does anyone have beta on any of the routes on the Bridge Creek Wall in Leavenworth? Anything at all would be good. Erik – I know you did something up there with Peter. Whats the haps? You FFA’ed something right?

I've looked at SPM on rap and it looks like it would take gear well as you should know. The bolts look good to me. the only thing that looked scary was the top. I think the pin below the top looked old and rusty but it looked like you could get something in.

What never never crack like. I think I'll lead it this weekend. I've looked at Gutbuster. Whats the climbing like?

Checked out the North Face and Dolimite Tower last weekend from the lake. That suff looks really awesome. can't waite till it dries out. those walls are big and the approaches look hard.

Is that a trick question? I'd love to but the golden handcuffs are holding me back. Might fly down for a long weekend this spring sometime. Have a fun season down there! Send!

You guys rock! thanks for the great climb!

Seems like its a good day when at the crags and I only take a couple 20 footers. I think the longest fall I took was running oot the first crux on the full Jap Garden pitch. Maybe 30 or so feet. Really fun. All air!

Ed its first thing in the friggin morning and that made me sick. Get better soon. If the tendon is fucked we'll just clim alpine.

Yeah, its kinda hard to coun't disaVantage onsites. Speaking of onsites, you should go for Perspective at Nightmare Rock in Squish. Very onsitable for its grade and I thought better than Rutabega.

I'd have to say Stems and Seeds at Vantage or Rutabega at Squamish.

ehmmic - right on for having the juice to fess up. Thats proud in and of itself. I learned aid climbing at Index myself and got spanked many times, mostly solo. Sketchy down aiding and funk of that type got me down but they were clean climbs so as a rule I never thought about bring pins. What I learned is if you don't know how to swim without waterwings, don't jump in the deep end of the pool.

Erik - Funny, I think I was there for both incidents.

I've never seen them at any other shops before but i just picked up a couple tiny sewn 2 footer Mammut slings. These things are so thin that when you see the strengh rating is the same as a regular sling its amazing. I used this sling with a couple Kong Heliums and its the lightest sling draw I've ever seen. to PMS for carring awesome lightweight gear.

Nice job Paco. Fri/Sat was the money cause Sat/Sun sure sucked.