dan_e

Well, it's the beginning of season two with the Android leashes and they still kick ass! Those who have dropped tools with these leashes probably set them up wrong. I have not even come close to dropping a tool yet and they work in any condition/mode. I have them covered with ice in the Rockies, used them while hacking branches on the top of climbs at Banks Lake, and also hanging while doing a bit of mixed climbing. In my opinion they are one of the better inventions for ice climbing I've seen in over ten years. Kudos to Black Diamond!!!!!!!!!! Dan E.

My last climb was at Louise Falls and the upper column was not formed. We climbed up to the cave to check things out and the ice leading up to the curtain had been climbed, but it did not look like the curtain had been touched. I poked around a bit, but decided to not give it a go, mostly because the pro on the ice to the curtain was not good enough for me. Two guys from Calgary tried it after we rapped down and the leader ended up bailing after placing about 4-5 screws before the curtain. It looks like it won't be long before it touches down to form the 'normal' line. Dan E.

Dear Geezers, How you acclimate is mostly due not to how well conditioned you are, but rather your physiology (how your body adapts to the change in pressure, partly by increasing red blood cell production). The fact that you grew up at 6,000' makes little difference now since I am assuming you now live close to sea level like the rest of us! This also is a factor for ascending to altitude, since our bodies are adjusted to sea level pressures. If you lived at a high altitude now, you might indeed have an advantage. So basically your body can adapt, but the unanswered question for those who have not been to a high altitude (10,000'+) is how fast and how well will their body adapt! Below is how I first dealt with altitude. I climbed to 20,320' after only being to an altitude of 6288' and I did better than most who have been higher. My parents have both been above 13,000' in Switzerland and had no problems adjusting to the altitude. They were not climbing, but my mom has severe asthma and has about one lung breathing capacity (I'm a diagnosed asthmatic as well). So, I know that I adapt well to altitude and I consider it a 'gift', one that I should be more thankful for (that means I should be climbing less ice and more big mountains!) So I hope this at least helps encourage you. I can't tell your how age would affect your acclimation though, but I am sure if you look hard enough you will find some information on the web. Good Luck and be sure to post a trip report when you return! Dan E.

I agree, conditions were excellent at Baker on Thursday! My girlfriend and I had a great time trying to re-learn how to board! I think I am hooked, maybe not possessed like I am about ice, but still it was a blast! Dan E.

Ice seemed well formed, looks like it's been pretty cold up there (the snow was excellent). I am not sure if it was Pan Dome falls, but when heading up C-2 there is a small section of ice of to left before C-1, it would be worth climbing maybe if you were already there to ski or board, but IMO not worth a 2.5+ hour drive. If this is not Pan Dome falls please correct me. Dan E.

I wanted to hear this from the horses mouth you could say, so I asked Yates directly: What I asked: "I was wondering if you can clarify what type of carabiners should be used on your screamer and zipper screamer models. I've heard a locker on the rope end, locker on both ends, andalso no need for lockers on either end for the new models?! I would like to know exactly what you, the manufacturer recommends." Reply from Karen at Yates: "Gate vibration does not occur on linear stitch patterns, of which all Yates load limiters are made. Any carabiner can be used, locking or non locking, wire or reg gate." I always had used a locker on the rope end, because I someone I trusted back in the day told me it's a good idea, but it sounds like it was unnecessary. The reason I asked is because I am using load limiters more this season for ice climbing, mostly because of the ropes I am using (BW Ice Floss). Dan E.

Will, I have the Rambocomps, but with mono-points. I noticed my points have one hole in the rear and two in the front. I was not aware that you could offset the dual points though. My mono-points are offset, but only from center. If you can't get this working you might want to try the mono-points, I switched four years ago and have not used dual-points since (except for alpine). There are so many advantages to mono-points, on the down side sometimes if the ice is really rotten you shear through a bit more having only one point, but in that case all I do is kick in harder to reach the secondary points. Dan E.

You're right it looks like BD does not sell those anymore. Try to locate a Camp dealer, I checked their site and they make Hexes that still take cord. No holes though, only the really big hexes had holes from what I remember. Good luck! Dan E.

Thermarests - Depends on which model you have. I have the old model of the ultralite. It packs MUCH smaller than a ridgerest or foam pad ever could. It may weigh a bit more, but I find it to be a better insulator. I still use just a 3/4 foam if it's for a bivy. BD Switchblades - I total agree, they suck big time, I had the first model. Screws came loose, they rusted, and the bails were recalled! However, they may have finally produced a decent pair of crapmons, the new Bionics look sweet! Bluewater Ropes - Not that bad, but tangle too much and absorb water more than others. Hydration Units (any) - You must be crazy if you don't like them, especially when going solo! No more removing your pack (especially the big ones) to drink, easier to drink more often, they hold more water, ect. ect.! I started to use them mtn. biking and I would never carry a water bottle on a bike again. True they are not as useful in winter, especially multi-day, but you can insulate the bag and the tube or buy the snow version if you wish. I've never had a bite-valve drip, camelbak or Platypus. [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

Last I heard (a week ago), the lower stuff is not formed, but Drury was looking at least partially formed. I am sure the crowds will be backed up on RT 2 soon enough! Dan E.

I just checked and the page is up. Dan E.

Check out this site for cordellete testing: Great info. on this can be found here: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/ The best, most complete info. I've seen yet. Dan E.

Great info. on this can be found here: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/ The best, most complete info. I've seen yet. Especially the water knot test! I've alwayshated this knot, Double or triple fishermanis the only way to go when it comes to joiningslings and this test helps prove it! http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Water_Knot_Testing.pdf Also check out the cordellete testing, I wassurprised at the results. http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf Dan E.

Okay, since I am trying to spread the word about my new photography web site, I am posting here as well, but hell it's the spray section so anything is legal! So, please if you are interested in fine-art, black and white photography or even if you are not, check out my site: http://www.dsephoto.com There are pictures of ice there, not stuff you climb though! 99% of the photos are from my home state of New Hampshire. Well, Enjoy and Spray away with your comments if you choose. Dan E.

This year is shaping up to be like a 'normal year', at least as far as I've experienced. Although snow level has been pretty low a bunch of times already this season, that's encouraging. I loved it last season, all the skiers were whining, but there was enough snow for ice. I hope we get a colder/drier spell soon. Dan E.

I agree with Lambone. Although I think spray is annoying for the most part, it may have it's place, but not here. I am sure some of you will still post 'spray' here anyway, but all non-ice conditions topics will be moved to spray or to their rightful topic. Your kind hearted ice conditions co-moderator, Dan E.

No spray here, yet... You guys both have good points and I agree with both of you on some level. My life goal used to be K2, but I will not cry if I never even climb over 20,000 feet. I don't know if I would want to deal with all of the crap (logistics) that comes with doing a 8000m peak. Of course I would not even consider going to Pakistan any time in the near future, sorry but no peak is worth being tortured in some prison! There is the Chinese side, but still. I still want to play in Alaska more anyway, plenty to do on Denali, Hunter, and others. I have to add this, perfect example of what I would never want to deal with, check out this site about a 2000 expedition to K2: http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/2000/k2/dispatches.html Read some of the "dispatches". Dan E. [ 11-30-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

I was on Hood two weeks ago, no one stopped me from climbing and I had the place pretty much to myself. Fun mountain to climb this time of year, especially on a nice cold day!

I am looking for general partners to climb ice this season, since I've been unemployed since June, I have lots of free time on my hands. I don't anticipate being employed anytime soon, so I want to take advantage of climbing during the week. I would also like to find someone to climb at Cascade Crags during the week, I can't stand gyms for the most part, but they are bearable when not completely crowded. I've been climbing for over ten years and I generally lead ice 4-5. I am looking for someone who is reliable and who loves to climb, especially ice. If you are interested just email me, don't post and please no newbies. Dan E. [ 11-26-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

Cobras are nice, worth the $$$, but Black Prophets are nice too, they don't have the curve which is nice for clearing bulges and topping out. BTW - There is or maybe was a nice pair of used Black Prophets down at Second Ascent when I was there last weekend.

I know what you are saying Lambone, but glue or no glue, proof is in the testing. I do agree that gluing the spike on to the shaft seems scary and I am happy to see my two beefy rivets that hold the spike on to the shaft of my non-cf black prophets! As far as saving a partners life, I would never use a technical ice tool as part of a belay, nor do I think BD would suggest this. I am, at the very most relying on the spike to hold my body weight, which I am sure it is more than capable of doing. Hell, I remember my early days of leading steep ice, I got so pumped trying to place a fat snarg, that I had to clip into the spikes of both X-15's and place the screw on aid. I trusted the spikes then to hold my body weight and I would trust them now to do the same! Dan E.

Okay, let me be more specific: I do often clip the tool into the belay, but only as a backup, not as part of the main belay (usually 22 cm ice screws). It never hurts to have more pieces in, but I don't exactly rely on the tool as being part of the belay. As for the continuing glue issue, I agree with DP. Besides, even if you are not using the tool as part of a belay, you are still using a tool where the head and spike are glued on, which means you are trusting your life to that very same glue! Dan E.

Below is an en email I sent to BD: I was wondering if you could tell me how strong the connection of the spike to the shaft is on both the black prophets and on the cobra's? I heard the spike is 'glued on' to the shaft on the cobra's, is this correct? Response from Tommy Chandler at BD: quote: Thanks for writing. The heads on all of BD's tools employ an extremely strong, high tech glue bond to connect the heads and spikes to the shaft. While at first this may seem like a not so strong method, time and testing has proven this to be the superior choice. In fact, the rigors of the BD Ice Axe testing have become somewhat legendary around here. Here's the basics of how we do it- first we take one tool from the batch (~300) and cool it to below freezing, then take it outside and beat it against then curb 150 times each on the pick and hammer, then bring it back inside and perform the standard CEN test for all ice tools, at which point all other tools on the market would be begging for mercy. This includes a three point bend, and pulling out of the pick-like you would on a climb, and lastly we try to pull the head off- which usually breaks the shaft or shuts the machine down at over 5000 lbf. I know of very few, if any, tools that can withstand this kind of punishment. Then, every tool in the batch is tested end to end to 1000 lbs. I posted this in response to some that may have thought the spike could not hold any weight. I've always clipped into the spike on my X-15's and now on my Black Prophets while setting up belays, ect. I've never counted on them holding much, but from BD is saying even the glue on spikes are quite strong. I know my tools (the non-cf black prophets) have two beefy rivets that attach the spike to the shaft and this may appear to be a safer/stronger way to attach the spike, but in the end in may not be. I feel it's important to have as much of the facts as possible when commenting on the strength and or safety of climbing gear. For the most part We have to rely on the manufacturer of the gear to insure it is safe, since most of us do not have the means to test gear beyond what it's capable of. Dan E. [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

There is one at Second Ascent in Ballard, but I think it had an adze, can't really remember, but you may want to check anyway. Too bad it's so hard to get short tools now, BD used to make the X-15 in 40cm, this is what use as a third tool, which BTW I've never used! Dan E. [ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: dan e ]

I am not sure if BD has changed the style of the Android leashes, but I checked mine today and the pin(s) are fine. I forget the exact term, but the pin is held in place by expanding the metal on the opposite side from the head, in this case it looks like it was done cold. They probably chose to do it that way because it's cheaper and like Lambone stated, it's not load bearing. This type of process could have over-stressed the metal, possibly causing a crack. I would call or email BD and I am sure they will want you to send it back to them, you will be doing them and everyone else who has these leashes a favor! I've dealt with BD's staff and they've always been friendly and helpful. This should be a reminder to everyone to check over gear for defects when you buy it and of course check it on occassion after it's been used. Dan E.