dan_e

Those bomber tent stakes that BD makes (or used to make?) might work, but of course are not tested for climbing and you could get yourself killed, but hell if it's that thin! This brings up a good point though and there is always room for innovation. I would rather see some sort of clean pro developed for this use, has anyone noticed the surge in bolting next to this ice routes. This pisses me off. I am thinking of starting a thread on this subject to get everyone's opinion. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 02-09-2001).]

I've used the BD aluminum blade shovel for years. It does not move snow like the voile, but it's a lot lighter, stiffer, more compact, and can be used to chop out blocks. We used the BD shovel and the voile on Denali and it was a perfect combo. It looks like BD now makes shovels that look a lot like the voile.

I believe as others have mentioned, that the suspension design is prefered due to the abilty to absorb many impacts. If anyone here mtn. bikes, they know that you have to replace your helmet after hard falls, usually because it's cracked. I would not want something like this in the mountains, especially ice climbing where you can get hit many times during a climb. Side note: Has anyone else noticed the amount of photos with ice climbers not wearing helmets? I just can't imagine not wearing one while ice climbing. I have never been hit by falling rock (close calls), but I have been hit by falling ice more times that I can possibly remember!

I heard about them on the news, tragic story. I was not aware he was a climber. The news was extra shocking to me since it happened in my home state of NH.

Alex is right, better to clip the spike, any good tool has a hole for there for clipping. Even a the more standard designed leashes are not guaranteed to hold more than body weight anyway.

I have both the excellence (for rock) and ice floss (for ice). I like both of them, but the do seem to tangle more than other ropes that I own. All of my other ropes are 10mm singles (Mammut Galaxy). That's my $.02

A good source for this is a journal published each year by the American Alpine Club, it's called "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" I have been getting this each year since 1991, I think it's been published for quite a while. Washington is in second place for the amount of total 'reported' accidents since 1951, right behind California (somehow that does not surprise me). [This message has been edited by dane (edited 02-02-2001).]

This is exactly why I don't read the climbing mags anymore. Twight is a great climber, but maybe he has gone off the edge 'mentally'!

I've had a Suunto for about one season now and I like it, no problems to speak of. It's a bit difficult to learn how to use, especially when your out in the woods without the manual. I like the 'log book' function which records your info. for each trip you take, ascent rate, ect. My model is the 'Vector', retail is around $200.

It would be nice to have this when the ice is out of shape, until then I will be out there climbing it (doing laps on Drury of course!)

All I know is that I am glad that I learned back in the day when you learned to climb by someone who was better than you, much better in my case. I was taught by a guy with 15 years climbing experience (that was 10 years ago) and he could lead hard trad (NE 10's and grade 5 ice). It's not that I was his apprentice, but he 'showed me the ropes' so to speak, it was up to me to decide when I was ready to lead. I climbed every weekend and bouldered (on real boulders) three times during the week. I built strength fast and read every climbing book I could find. I feel sorry for the individuals who have to learn in the gym or by paying guides.

Well, I had to completely change my response since I read the original post. Wait, nah I am too tired... [This message has been edited by dane (edited 02-02-2001).]

I just wanted to add a few things about Drury Falls. I am very happy to have finally done this climb, the overall experience was amazing. Crossing the river where we did made the approach faster, but use caution if you cross here, it's still moving water and could turn nasty if you are not prepared. The ice is thick and was great for climbing, it was really warm though. I would say the upper climb on the right was about WI4, possibly a bit easier on the left. We did it in three pitches, the last one was the shortest, only about 50' or so. The semi-hanging belay here was amazing, great exposure and an amazing view of surrounding landscape. We were above an undercast all day. Good luck to anyone else trying this climb this year, you will love it! [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-29-2001).]

BTW - It's lame to rate (with stars) something you have yet to even try. If you have ACTUALLY used it (no looking at it in the store does not count) then let us know what you think. Thanks.

The reason why the ice clip works well is that it only sticks out 3/4 of an inch from your harness. The BD looks way too big, and that other one looks even bulkier. I am all for making a homemade job, but this is a simple, inexpensive accessory that works well (a two pack is about 22 bucks). I've used it on about five climbs so far this year. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-23-2001).]

His post does not say he was top-roping, even if he was they still should have stated their intentions. I agree that leading always takes precedence over top-roping, but there is no reason to be such an ass. I hardly ever top-rope, but if I do it's on a small, flow that would not be worth leading. I plead to everyone climbing at Banks to please not top-rope climbs that are trying to form, this could easily ruin a persons chance of leading a great climb.

All I know is that there is ice to climb and I am all over that. I have been there two weekends in a row and I have done some excellent climbs (see the "local ice" topic for details). Sure the ice that's formed is not for everyone and Devil's is scary, but there are good climbs to be found. I do agree with one point J. Fisher made in that considering the quality of the ice, it's best to avoid top-roping the climbs that are not well formed, especially the classics. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-22-2001).]

Desciption: Leashes that you can remove in seconds from your ice tools. They feature wrist loops that you don't remove your glove from when placing pro, you simply 'unclip' them from the tool via a spring-loaded clip. Positive: You could not ask for a faster way to free your hand from the ice tool. Quality stainless steel materials. Versatile placement on tool, allowing almost any range of movement. Wrist loops are comfortable and have a simple tighten system (two rings). Negatives: People have lost tools while using these (a guy dropped a Cobra at Ouray while using these). Close attention must be paid when clipping back on to the ice tool or it's history. Summary: I think for technical ice these leashes are great. Supposedly they have been getting good reviews by some pro climbers, but hell what do they know, they are paid to use the stuff (just kidding, sort of) I checked out the construction, played with them on a tool in the store, and then went and tried them out. I can say they were worth the $40 (a piece) cost. I bought mine at Marmot.

I am submitting some personal opinions for some new gear that I've used this season, this one being the first. Trango Ice Clip Description: A small, light clip for racking screws and or quickdraws. Made of aluminum and stainless steel. Positive: Much faster removal of ice screws from the harness. Space saver and organizer. Negative: Must rack all of the same size screw. Other items (slings/biners) can clip themselves in when you don't want them to (rare). Digs into hip unless you have lots of padding (mostly when bending over and depends on location. Limited areas to place on harness. Summary: I love it, even though I thought of more negatives than positives. Great for panic pieces! I purchased mine at Marmot in Bellevue since they sell them separate. REI only sells them in pairs and was not willing to split them up, BOO!

I am using these gloves this year as well. After one outing I had soaked hands within minutes, so I applied seam grip to most of the internal seams. Much better now, but they can still get wet. I have a pair of gloves made by Mont-bel (which no longer sells gear in the US) These are the best gloves I've ever owned, hands down! They have an internal gore-tex mitt that attaches to the outer glove with velcro, and also a nice, toasty fleece glove which also attaches with velcro. They have an internal baffel to keep snow out, a rubber coated kevlar palm, and a huge gauntlet (they come up to about mid-forearm). I never climb with them around here (too warm). These gloves have kept my hands warm in temps well below zero! Maybe there is still a way to get these, I am not sure.

I would have been pissed off if that was me. There is etiquette on ice, just like on rock. They should have asked if they could climb at the same time as you and then kept a separate line, being careful not to knock anything down on you guys. Most of the climbs there that are formed right now hardly have enough room for two parties and since the ice is poorly formed you know chunks will be falling down. What climb was this and what day was it? I saw two groups climbing a 4+ right off the road, not far from the "Banks Lake Reclimation" sign, on the right going north. I thought this was odd, especially on such a hard climb, was this you? Next time, let them know you don't want them above you, or if you don't mind, tell them to keep clear of your line. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-22-2001).]

I was also at Banks Lake this weekend and Alex is right on with the condition descriptions, so I won't bother repeating. I can say this being my second trip there ever, that the ice that's formed so far is pretty challenging. The topouts on most of the climbs I have done were thin and detached from the rock. Also, most of the climbs have bushes and trees at the top. This makes for an interesting, if not more dangerous top-out. That's about it, it was barely cold enough to climb this weekend, the temps were around freezing. It snowed a bit on Sat. night and Sun. A note about Devil's Punchbowl, I witnessed a climber getting nailed by a few large chunks of ice while climbing the fat ice on the right side, icicles keep forming high above this route and with the warm temps start falling down. It seems like this is fairly common, but I would be wary of climbing in there when temps are even near freezing, even so there is a hazard. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-22-2001).] [This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-22-2001).]

Don't forget Wilderness Sports in Bellevue. I think they have used gear as well (downstairs).

I think this route is better than the N. Face in the right conditions. After leading the N. Face last year, I realized my solo of the NE Buttress was much more interesting. I was lucky to have picked one of the coldest days of the year. The climb consisted of some good ice right from the ridge, to perfect steep, styrofoam snow, and then a nice steep ice step about 2/3's of the way up the face. The exposure here was amazing. I toped out with temps near 10 below! Hard to believe, but true. I had views of the cascades and the volcanoes. I was in complete awe. If you ever get a chance to climb it in these conditions, you will not be disappointed. Climb on, Dan E.