dan_e

There's ice at Rap wall and tons of snow. Nothing you could put a screw into though. I will post a brief TR, unfortunately no pics since I forgot the camera in the car.

Pretty much. They're building that stuff simply because people will buy it, regardless of its place in the backcountry. They're not misrepresenting it as anything else. More power to them, I say. Spot on Figger_Eight. What people are refering to is the Veilance division of Arc'teryx. I am not one to spend money on fancy clothes, but if I had the cash I would buy a SS02 Blazer in a second, heck it's even under $900! Who cares if it's not Italian. Most in the industry still agree Arc'teryx makes the best 'constructed' outdoor apparel, however they are not very innovative with fabrics. Still they do use very high quality materials.

They are so full of shit and they act like the invented heat reflection fabrics (referring specifically to their new commercials). I always try keep an open mind about new technologies, but still I have yet to see any PE or PU based laminates that actually breath well enough to be used in a jacket. I still think membranes with pores like PTFE (gore-tex) are the way to go, especially since they work (albeit not nearly as good) like our own skin. It would be nice if some one came up with a more eco version of gore-tex. All fabrics with or without breathable membranes have limitations, it's all about knowing what they can and can't do. Columbia BS aside, there are some legit new breathable fabrics coming out. One I am interested is Polartech Power Shield Pro, too bad know one I trust is using yet, especially not TNF! I also want to test the Mammut c_change fabric which is supposed to breath more when it's warm (like our skin works). Sounds great on paper, but does it work in 'real world" situations. Oh and I have to comment on this quote: "The outdoors industry has become stale," said a Columbia exec at the event. "We want to grow the market through innovation." Again you're full of shit Columbia! Grow the market, what with your shitty/gimmicky products and more BS! WTF!!!

I am not worried at all I was mainly trying to put others at ease. I've had a few comments regarding the rivet (as in adding metal to the helmet). It's really all about the placement. Not that climbing helmets are nearly as sophisticated, but moto helmet makers tell you to retire a helmet even if you drop it on the ground! It is true that the internal foam cpuld be damaged from the impact, which could, to some degree reduce the amount of head protection if you're in a bad crash, however I think it's more to cover their ass.

Yes, but the key is to remember to do that! Putting it on in the light with the helmet off is a lot easier. I guess just like the clean look and it makes me look more like a miner!

That's another option, however finding the right adhesive would be important and if you screw it up you could ruin your helmet. The pop rivet way is easy and fast, my second mod (on the Meteor) took me about 10-15 minutes.

Thanks! I like my mods to look as close to factory as possible. I did play with the location of the wire so it the biner on the umbilicals did not get in the way. I botched the first one, but you can't tell when the hand rest is on. All you need to do is drill a hole in the aluminum piece that holds the adjustable hand rest. You will need to find a small swag or reduce the size by grinding it down which is what I did. Don't make the hole too big and don't get to close the the hole that is for mounting the hand rest. You will need to remove some of the plastic from the hand rest so you can slide it on easily when the wire is attached. If you use cord this will be easier. It is a fairly easy mod, but takes time to get it looking nice. You can experiment how hard to swag the wire and this will determine if you want it to break free under load like I've done. This is really personal preference. Others have mention that your tool could hold a fall, however I will never rely on an ice tool to hold a fall that's what screws are for!

MOD #3 Petzl Nomic Umbilical Attachment I still have fixed feelings about umbilicals, but like many of you I don't want to lose a tool when I am 2-3 pitches or more of the deck. It would mostly hurt my wallet. I got the idea from a guy with a par of new Nomics, apparently there is a hole where you can attach cord or even coated with like I did, but you will need to drill the hole if you have the original Nomics. STANDARD WORTHLESS DISCLAIMER: Remember kids, modifying your gear is potentially dangerous and could result in your death or the death of your trusty climbing buddy. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it! MOD #3 Petzl Nomic Umbilical Attachment (with BD Umbilicals attached) I designed the attachment point to fail at around 170 lbs., the reason being is that I don't want a tool to smash me in the face after falling. If the tool is placed solid enough and I fall it should stay in the ice and I will hopefully be able to retrieve it later. It will also keep one honest since you won't not be able to weight the umbilicals since the swag will eventually fail which will send you plummeting to your death! After all the umbilicals are meant to save a dropped tool, not to hold a fall!

I love my Fraction jacket(s). The older model had a dual zip which is sadly gone. I use then primarily as a belay jacket, especially here in the moist PNW. Personally I think it's warmer than the Transcendent, mainly because it's not 'sewn through' construction. It's does have the same fill as the Nano hoodie, but the Fraction is eco primaloft. :-p to patagucci! Either way the fraction feels like it has more insulation, not sure why. I am a former OR employee, but I am not biased. I use whatever gear works best and my outerwear ranges from OR to Arc'teryx and yes even Patagonia who I really do love!

I figured I would share a few mods, you know give back to the community. This one is for the Petzl Adapt. I love the this thing, you know trying to put a headlamp on a helmet is never easy and especially since it's almost always in the dark! That being said it's a flawed product (mounting method) don't trust the adhesive! I followed the instructions to the letter and it still peeled off with ease and it looks ugly anyway. It might work on the smoother surface of the Meteor III, however I am not willing to risk losing my headlamp. STANDARD WORTHLESS DISCLAIMER: Remember kids, modifying your gear is potentially dangerous and could result in your death or the death of your trusty climbing buddy. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it! I am not writing much, you know what they say: "a picture...", but I will comment when necessary. MOD(S) 1&2 Petzl Adapt Multimount. On the Elios On the Meteor III Now you might be asking yourself two questions, first is it safe? and second will it effect the ability of the helmet to protect my head? Well in the end that's for you to decide, however I am comfortable with the mod, but that's me. Would Petzl approve? hell no! On the Elios the pop rivet is covered by the internal plastic harness and some EVA foam I added. It's pretty much the same deal on the Meteor III, except there is even more foam between my skull and the tiny pop rivet. There is also a piece of HDPE plastic in there and it's finished off with seam grip and covered with velcro and then a bit of internal padding.

The right line looks like a solid WI 6!

Jon H, please take everything you read here with a grain of salt! Sorry guys but it's called "Cascade Whiners" for a reason! I am a former 'wrong' coast climber (NH Native) and yes in many ways it's better to be back east as an ice climber, but mainly if you are a weekend warrior. I honestly really only miss the Lake, but I can go to the CDN rockies and have way more routes to choose from at the same grade. As for WA, yes ice is fickle here, really depends on the year. Even in a bad season you will get on some quality ice and when the ice is in there many excellent routes to be had. Still, to be happy as an ice climber you must be able to travel and take long trips (Bozeman, Cody, BC and the CDN Rockies). This is my 2nd time living in WA (as a die hard ice climber) and I am loving it. I've learned to adapt to the conditions and most importantly always have a back up plan! Good luck and all that being said I think it's wise that you wait and come out to do Liberty Ridge. It's a fantastic route and we generally have very long stretches of good weather in the summer.

Bob is spot on. The hybrid crampons are fine for glacier travel and lower angle ice/moderate alpine, however if it you want to climb more steep ice having crampons that fit well is critical. If you ever get a chance try a pair of fruit boots or any boot with bolt-ons and you will truly understand the difference.

SOLD!

Okay, I know you all want me to think you're poor dirtbag climbers, reality is most of you are just damn cheap! Well some of you at least. This is you're LAST chance to get a brand new harness for $40 off retail, yes I lowered the price again. It's a great harness, really. I am climbing with it (size M) this winter. I am using the Xenos for waterfall and mixed routes. I use an lighter arc'teryx for alpine routes. Ice is knocking on our door, okay maybe no our door, but it's only a bit more than month a way in Bozeman and Cody! PM if interested.

Price reduced to $90. I am giving it one more week here and then it's off to Ebay.

PRICE REDUCED to $90 ($34-$39 off retail). New (never worn) Black Diamond Xenos harness, size: Large. Price is non-negotiable. Retail is $124-$129 (online). PM if interested.

I need the scavenge the plastic cages from a pair of crampons for a project I am working on. I need an old, worn out (essentially junk to you) pair of crampons. I would prefer Petzl, but other brands may work. I am willing to pay $15-20 PM if you have what I am looking for (see photo). Thanks!

PRICE REDUCED - only 5 days before it goes on Ebay I am selling this pack simply because I've never used it and I really don't need a pack this size with this many technical features. It's a great pack for long ski tours, multi day alpine routes, expeditions, etc. It's never been used and has been store in a cool/dry/UV free location since I bought it. I can't say enough about Osprey packs. I have several and they are hands down the best packs I've ever owned. I regularly use a Variant 28, Mutant 38 and Talon 5.5 and 22. Online retail price range is $161-199 so this is a great deal.

Sorry Yikes, but I was just putting away my Talon and decided to take the Variant out of storage and I noticed it's a 52, not 37! So as punishment for my screw up I will offer the pack to you first for $110. It will be re-posted as the Variant 52 and the price will be increased since it's more expensive. Just so were clear: It's a Osprey Variant 52, size: M, color: Pyro (red).

Thanks for the info.

It really is a great deal! I would keep it, but I just don't think it will ever see much use. Also I have WAY too many packs. Thanks Dave!

What's the sizing like (true to size, toe box, heel width)? Thanks!

UPDATE: Sorry but I listed the wrong pack, I actually have a Variant 52 my bad. I will be creating a new post shortly. I am selling this pack simply because I've never used it and I really don't need a pack with this many technical features. It's a great pack for ski tours and winter alpine routes. It's never been used and has been store in a cool/dry/UV free location since I bought it. I can't say enough about Osprey packs. I have several and they are hands down the best packs I've ever owned. I regularly use a Variant 28, Mutant 38 and Talon 5.5 and 22. Online retail price range is $161-173 so this is a great deal.

SOLD