dan_e

quote: Originally posted by tobytortorelli: "I long for the ice/snow and cold of New England"-dane well, dane, looks like it's time to go back to the east coast. please bring any friends back with you. hope you get some snow and ice this winter. oh, and tell everyone how the snow quality sucks in washington, that was a good statement you made. thanks. Hey TT, No need to get so huffy! I am like many of us a transplant (since 1996) and I love it hear, but sometimes I long for the climbing and weather back east (mostly fall/winter, summers suck there). As far as snow/skiing goes, I am not going to get into it, but I just hate that moist/slushy stuff (the more common type of snow here) and temps that sometimes barely reach freezing. As far as telling people back east about conditions here, trust me they know and as a previous post pointed out, learning to ski back east makes you good, because the conditions are difficult (icy/hard packed powder). Oh and Don't worry about me, I'll be ice climbing all winter! Dan E.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: ... but unfortunately you are chained to the base of the REI climbing tower???? I've not yet climbed any of the REI walls, but they are on my list. I figure when I obtain your level of skill I should be ready. Dane

For Sale: Description: Marmot Alpinst Jacket. Heavy Duty fabric/zipper, ect., 3-Layer Gore-Tex, Tons of pockets inside and out. Color: Red/Gray Size: X-Large (more like Large) Condition: Near Perfect Cost: $200 obo - email for more details [This message has been edited by dane (edited 10-10-2001).]

Snow is okay, but ice is KING! Besides WA gets way too much anyway and the snow is more like slush. I long for the ice/snow and cold of New England and Alaska...

Send me an email and let me know what you're schedule is like, I would mainly be available during weekdays. climbonice@hotmail.com

Quote from texplorer: quote: If you want more safety go do another extreme sport like rollerblading Funny that this is mentioned, in over ten years of climbing, one of my worse injuries is from inline skating or rollerblading if you must call it that. My point is many things in life can be dangerous, so choose carefully how you formulate comparisons. As far as responding to the post, well I think everyone has made some valid points. I climb 'sport-routes', but I don't call myself a 'sport-climber'. I do believe as others have stated that you can trad climb, regardless of how much money you make. Most climbers don't start off with a fully loaded rack. I remember my first rack and it was puny, I had only one rigid cam! I was lucky enough however to have learned back in the day when climbing was still taught mainly outside and by experienced climbers who just liked to teach people how to climb. It's impossible to find this now, but it's not nearly as common. I think learning to climb in the gym and then buying some gear to head out and trad climb is an accident waiting to happen. So, if you don't trad climb and want to learn, find someone experienced to teach you, or find an experienced guide (be careful just because they are a guide does not mean they know what they are doing!). As for the gear goes, just buy a piece here and a piece there and your rack will grow! Dan E. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 10-04-2001).]

I was going to post this under the "sport vs. trad" topic, but it was a bit of the subject. So, has anyone thought that part of climbing has evolved into 'sport climbing' for a specific reason? I just wanted to post my thoughts on this as I've seen climbing progress for over a decade, so here goes: I think many of the ideas of why sport climbing is the way it is are close, but somewhat off the mark. As I am sure many have noticed the grades/difficulty for trad climbing and sport climbing have not progressed equally. Although I don't have exact figures, I am pretty sure there are many more 5.13+ sport routes than 5.13+ trad routes. Has anyone thought that placing gear at the harder grades takes more strength/energy or noticed that many severely over-hanging/cave routes have runners already in place? Of course the do, again it would require more energy/strength to clip those bolts which would lead to a fall and or make it harder to finish the route. It's so simple, and it is not just about making climbing safe. Who would argue that clipping into a bolt is easier than trying to 'correctly' place a nut or even a cam! Considering the multitude of difficulties that go with placing natural pro, it's easy to say which takes more strength/energy, and skill, but I won't get into that in this topic. It's also been argued that the limit to how hard climbing can go may end up being determined by how hard it becomes to clip-in, routes may become so difficult that no one may be able to clip into protection and hold on at the same time. I think there will be a limit to how hard climbs can be, granted it's amazing what some climbers stick to now, still there is a limit and it will eventually be reached, possibly within my life time. One reason why the limit has not been reached yet is because the scale has been modified or stretched if you will. Climbers also seem to forget this, a climb rated 5.10 ten years ago is not the same as climb rated 5.10 at present. There are clear examples of these climbs back east, but the ratings are never updated (you gotta love the sandbaggers!) I would also speculate that the degree of difficulty between the sub-grades a/b/c/d of most 5.10/5.11 routes are not the same as the difference between the sub-grades of 5.13/5.14. Dan E.

<moved message to start another topic, see "Sport Climbing, an evolution?!"> Dan E. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 10-04-2001).]

I seem to wear my helmet more these days, but still not always. I was not wearing one during my accident this spring where I hit my head twice, hard on the way down a rock strewn gully. I was amazed that I did not split my head it two, it's amazing how tough the human body can be. My rule of thumb has always been: Always wear a helmet while ice climbing and wear a helmet at cliffs/crags that are prone to rockfall. Since I could care less what people think when I am out climbing, I don't ever not wear one because I think that I am looking like a dork. The main reason I don't wear a helmet is if it's really hot. Since I get fatigued quickly in the heat, especially my head cooking inside a helmet. My votes for helmets are the Petzl Ecrin and Ecrin Roc. I wear the Ecrin for ice (no longer made) and the Ecrin Roc for rock/alpine, the Roc is nice since it's easy to adjust. We've been through the foam/plastic helmet discussion before and I still say plastic is the only way to go, since it's more durable and will last longer, besides most foam helmets are designed more for an impact like crashing while biking, ect.

Purchased this stove as part of my weight reduction for a multi-day trip I took this August. My stove of choice before this was an MSR Whisperlite 600. I wanted something faster, lighter, and more compact. I also considered the MSR Pocket Rocket, which is a bit lighter, but seemed flimsy, especially the leg stands which were connected to the stove with cheap hollow rivets. The quality of the materials and design on the Snow Peak stove are outstanding. Here's what I found: Positive: Light (under 4 oz!), sturdy, and compact. Piezo ignitor worked perfectly. Boiled water quickly and did not consume tons of fuel (one 110 g canister lasted me three days). Negative: None found so far. I will post any negative results. I may test this for winter use, but I bought it primarily for 3 season use. Dan E.

I think this MIOX pen thing will be the way to go, I just checked it out at their website http://www.miox.com pretty cool invention I must say. Sure beats those huge, expensive water filters. Of course I've never used any water filter. I've been drinking untreated water since I started hiking as a teen (about 16 years) and I've drank the water from every place I've visited (US only). You may think "is he stupid or what?", but part of me believes in letting my body take care of fighting bacteria/foreign organisms/ect., this does not mean I can never get sick, but it hasn't happened yet. One possibilty is that I could be a carrier of Giardia without showing any ill symptoms. I've heard this is possible. What did people do before water filters? I hardly doubt they all boiled water and I am sure some got sick, but the majority did not. Even though it's not supposed to matter, I still always try to obtain water from clear, running sources. Well, call me stupid, but it's one less thing I have to be concerned about in the wilderness!

True, many things cause cancer and are bad for us. Water is so key to life, since we are mainly water, I think drinking water that is free of impurities is key to trying to live healthier. Of course this will only matter if I don't end up getting killed while climbing! One can only hope...

Places like established climbing areas with water sources would be the exception, so no I would not drink unfiltered water from the Crooked River. I would always carry enough water for those occasions, which by the way is 100% filtered tap or trusted spring water. I would be more concerned about drinking tap water that has chlorine and flouride, and other chemicals like pesticides, ect. Also, how good is ingesting iodine, especially long term effects? I've been drinking only filtered or quality spring water (Poland Spring mainly) since the early 90's, if I drink unfiltered, city water now it tastes like pool water! Dan E.

It did not take me long to realize climbing was a selfish activity, of course this did not stop me from climbing, but I do not have any children. I think most of the postings by climbers who have children are just trying to fool themselves, they know deep inside that climbing is selfish and exposes them to risks that ordinary people do not face. It's easy to say "you can get killed crossing the street, or by falling and hitting your head on the bathtub". Still if you climb in any fashion, be it sport or extreme alpinism, you are increasing your risk of death. In my many years of climbing I've pushed things to the edge, had a few close calls, including my recent accident which easily could have killed me. My non-climbing friends cannot rattle off a list of how many times they almost got killed. Other comments about how policemen and firemen take risks and could be killed CANNOT be used as comparison to climbing parents and considering recent events, even mentioning that is absurd and an insult to those who lost their lives TRYING TO PROTECT AND SAVE PEOPLES LIVES! Damn, that pissed me off! Dan E.

This seems to be a touchy subject lately, but it does seem like it could have been mistaken for a retreat line. Should we really be fixing lines on alpine routes anyway? What would happen if for some reason you did not return for your gear? Should it be left there? To me this is the same as leaving trash on the mountains. I still take booty, as it's a long standing tradition, but there are un-written rules. I would never take a rope though, mainly because you can never tell how it's been treated. However if you 'accidentally' leave a cam or ice screw behind it's getting added to my rack and I will use it with no guilt. I don't loose gear much, but I am sure someone out there is using a piece or two of mine and good for them since I was the dumb ass who dropped it or left it behind! Dan E.

Well, let me pop my Eiger Sanction CD into my computers DVD rom player, uh hold on a sec... Okay here you go: "It's in the hotel, it's a C2 special with no serial number, it's in the candy box" Gotta love DVD's they make searches so easy, with chapters and 30x FF! So do you just want to give me the prize now?! hehe

I say nay on climbing being a sport, at least what modern man defines as a sport. I am sure some climbers think it is a sport though, to them a weekend climb is like a weekend of football, baseball, ect. Of course there are those of us (like myself) who view climbing as personal, often selfish activity, a pursuit that gives us a feeling that nothing else on this earth can! Besides most 'sports' require more than one person, and or equipment. All you need to go climbing is hands and feet, sometimes not even all of those! Dan E.

The bad thing about negative/off topic or just plain stupid posts is that it makes it more difficult to learn about new gear, get decent beta, or just talk about a cool climb. My $.02 Dan E. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 08-09-2001).]

Personally I would not invest much $$$ in a 3rd tool. I have an old 40 CM X-15 and I have never used it in an emergency. Breaking picks should be a rare occurance, unless you are doing tons of mixed climbing and torqueing the pick in cracks or if you are generally overly-abusive. In 9 years of ice climbing I've never broken a pick (BD of course). I've seen others break picks though, I am not saying it can't or won't ever happen to me, but that's my experience so far. As far as recommendations for a third tool, unless you really do plan to make use of it else where, try to find a small, light, compact (40 cm) tool. Check out Second Bounce, I've seen a few there before. I also agree with making the third tool a hammer. All this talk of ice tools make we want winter to be here now! Hope that helps! Dan E.

In case you are all wondering, the weather sucks because I am still not able to get out and climb due to my injury in April. The weather has sucked since then. I may possibly be able to get out this fall, but don't count on it! The good news is it should be an excellent ice season, so start sharpening those tools!

Yeah, he won the TDF again, quite an amazing feat, BUT, there are many amazing athletes in the world. As far as making climbers look like wussies, HA! who are you to make such a bold claim. There is no doubt he is a great biker, but come on, we are talking about road biking! You dare to even think to compare this to climbing or climbers, we are nothing alike (although I won't speak for all climbers). If you are comparing aerobic conditioning, you are probably right. I respect what you criticize, having the focus to work on a hard climb, be it sport or otherwise is something to respect, most of us don't have that kind of focus and dedication. I think you need to think a bit more before you post. When I think of some of the great climbers of past and present, it makes me think all others are mere mortals, including your hero!

Glasses suck, period! I was a happy man the day I discovered Acuvue contacts, the thinnest, most comfortable contacts made! (I should be a rep. for J & J!) I've worn my contacts extended (one week, 24 hrs. a day) for over four years with no problems and my eyes are examined on a regular basis. I brought contacts with me on a 28 expedition in 1996 and they worked great. I can see how it would be a pain if you did not wear them extended though. I've ice climbed with guys that have gotten screwed because their glasses fogged up! This is the main reason why I like contacts so much, not to mention the difference in vision quality. I am also weary of any eye surgery, laser or other types, mainly because if they screw up there is not much that can be done and they are still not sure of long term side effects. I've heard stories of people developing problems a year or two after the surgery! It's not worth it to me, especially since contacts work so well. My $.02+

This seems to be on the rise this year, did the car that got broken into have anything visable on the seats or dash? I learned to never leave anything that can be seen inside my vehicle, even a few quarters, or a CD, it's amazing that thieves will break in for low value items, but they are probably desperate, small time crooks. It would be nice to have some sort of useful security system, like a flame thrower or maybe a strong electric shock!

Since this is getting a bit off the subject, this will be my last post, but I just wanted to comment on having a knife for defense. On self-defense against a person: Dave is correct, a knife, like most weapons can be used against you so you had better know how to use it and of course if you attacker has a gun you are pretty much out of luck. On self-defense against a bear: Obviously a person would not "win" in a hand to hand fight with a grizzly. I just know that if I was on my stomach with a pack on being mauled, adrenaline flowing, I might attempt to give it a stab or to in the face to attempt to get the bear off me. You could just make the bear more mad, but sometimes if you hurt an animal enough it usually chooses to back off rather than face a chance of being mortally wounded. Hell, I just remembered the story in "Alaska Bear Tales" of the guy who killed a grizzly with an ice axe!

Beck, Real smart carrying a knife around your neck, too bad you could have been a candidate for the "Darwin Award"! Sounds like you don't know know how to handle a knife so maybe you should leave yours at home. As far as what I use it for, as I stated in my previous post: "I had it with me backpacking in Denali NP" at least if a bear decided to maul me, I would have a fighting chance. I've read of many bear attack stories where people have used a knife with some success or maybe wish they had one. I've hardly carry it or use it for that matter, that's why they call it a "speciality knife"! It's not something I carry on regular hikes or while climbing. Dan E.