dan_e

10 years on ice using only BD picks and I have not broken one yet. I am not saying it can't happen, but...and yes I am knocking on wood as I type! Dan E.

It was a bit rambly, but had some steep sections, I would say around 3+ depending on the exact line and about 170m from the first ice. Most of the ice was newly formed and was either really good or really bad and the top outs on the steep sections were a bit nasty consisting of cruddy snow and rock underneath in places. The start consisted of working around a thin ice dome with a good flow of water underneath, you had to completely avoid stepping on it and even after that it was easy WI 2 ice for a bit, but the ice was really fragile so I pretty much stayed off of it and climbed a bit on the rock (rock pro could be useful in places). After this was a short WI 3 step and then more rambly cruddy ice/snow. The last pitch is the biggest ice and is WI 3+/4 harder to the left which was not formed well enough for me, so I climbed the shorter WI 3+ ice to the right, which was still challenging due to the continued cruddy ice in places, but pro was decent. Funny thing was the garden hose we saw on the last rappel, it appeared to connect to the water source, but I could not locate the end. It's obvious someone is trying to make more climbs there, but it does not appear to be working. There is a line on the way to this climb that would be amazing if it formed, probably a 100+ free standing column, about 60' from the rock if it were to touch down! If anyone plans to head up there I can provide more details (for a price of course - j/k). Dan E.

Careful BD has recalled some of these in the past, besides the normal Stinger and Cobra picks are plenty strong, another reason why the probably stopped making them.

Climbed a nice three pitch route past Goat Wall on Thursday, up from the gate creek drainage. Goat's Beard is forming and looks impressive, but it still has a way to go before it's fully formed. The Mazama area has lots of potential, too bad it's so damn far away! Dan E.

Drury and the Pencil are now forming nicely, but the upper part of Drury is still open (on the right) and still open a bit in the middle as well. The steep section of the Pencil has yet to form, but a good amount of ice above that, at least this year we have the water now we just need some more cold weather! Dan E.

Passed through on the way to Mazama hoping to climb something, but it was barely freezing and what is there is very anemic, including the devil's shooting gallery (yes the large daggers above the still open slab are formed nicely!) Dan E.

Well Matt the time we did it in late July we were lucky just to have lived getting on the route! It was us and another party, rock fall was almost continuous and there was only one place to get onto the ridge and that was steep volcanic choss! I am an experienced ice climber and I have to say you would have needed to use bollards down the entire upper face (??? # of pitches) since it was hard ice. Downclimbing this would have taken forever. We decided to try and beat the weather (a risky choice, but no regrets) you could bivy on the route, maybe at the shrund? I just wanted to make the point that retreat via the ascent route is not always the best option, but I do agree it can be an option. Dan E. PS - I agree about the carbon glacier, probably much easier in winter, we had to rap about 6-8 times into crevasses and climb the other side! We also has some fun cave like crevasses to make our way through, it was tough going for sure!

I agree with Dan, at least from what I have planned. I have wanted to do this for sometime, but my previous status as weekend warrior has made it difficult. As far as downclimbing the route, that all depends on conditions. I would have to ask Mattp, would you try the descent in late July!? I will possibly attempt this route this winter, but I want the conditions (snow and weather) to be as good as they can be. Dan E.

Okay, this stuff was all sold, but the people who wanted it flaked out, so it's all for sale again. Please if you REALLY want this gear plan on being able to pick it up a few days after you tell me you want it. So here it is: Grivel Rambo Crampons in Dual Point configuration w/ front points. $85(crampons and front points are in good shape, sharp, and not rusty. The monos are a bit more worn and are just an extra). (2) BD 10 cm Ice Screws (non-express style) $25 each. These screws have been used once or twice, but the teeth are in near perfect condition and no rust. (1) BD 22 cm Ice Screw (non-express style) $20A bit more use on this one, but teeth still in good shape and finish is still decent. Email or PM if interested, all prices are still non-negotiable. Dan E. [ 02-05-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Yes, the climb to the right of Synchronicity, the upper part appeared formed, but we did not get a good look with binoculars.

Lillooet Conditions as of 1/16: Colder weather for sure, overall things are looking pretty thin, but climbs are now reforming. 1/14 - Climbed The Dihedral? (last climb to the left in the Icy BC area, I was not sure if it was Waite for Spring?) it was a bit thin and technical with a good amount of hooking, okay pro. Examined Icy BC, lower section fine, second and third pitches had open water and still forming. 1/15 - Did Night N' Gale, from the road it looked like the best ice to climb and it was in great shape. Ascend on large frozen ice balls (avi debris). Descent was kinda rough, river crossing nice and toasty! 1/16 - Headed back to Marble Canyon, climbed first pitch. Second pitch now closed and looking good. Upper pitch has small open section, but does not look too bad. TR'd some fun mixed stuff (Waite for Spring?). We also spent a fair amount of time exploring, and here's what we saw: Honeyman Falls - Partially formed, but still open and running at the top. Deeping Wall - Lower 4' or missing except for small icicle that has touched down. First 30' about 2-4" thick, and choppy. Shriek of the Sheep - Formed, but upper section looks a bit thin ??? Synchronicity - Or "The Syncro" as a girl from the mile-O called it! Ramp section completely missing (wet mixed climbing!) and the rest looks pretty bad. I am glad I did it last season! Carl's Berg - First pitched formed, but thin a hard 5 for sure and still open above that. Isodorth Gully - Looked pretty good, plenty of ice to climb. Nice loose, wet snow avi debris at the bottom! (now frozen of course). Phair Creek - Headed down past the B & B to to right and hit a 50' section of solid ice! Scary, not much snow on the road, but the ice was enough to make us turn back! We had a great three days, plenty to climb when there is no one else up there (amazingly we did not see any other climbers in three days, gotta love that!) Dan E. [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

I went by Index last week after the big warm up and compared to a month ago it looked bare (some snow, but a lot melted). Dan E.

Well, I for one never climbed with those cords, but only because they seemed like they would get in the way. It looks like the some of the euros are using them in case they drop a leashless tools, how dumb is that?! That's what the damn leash is for, duh! I could care less who is climbing leashless, be it in Europe, Canada, or in the States. Using leashes will never be considered aid in my mind, but rather the smart thing to do. As someone else pointed out, most tools being used leashless have some sort of hand stop at the end or special handle so it's not like you are just gripping the tool. It sounds like it will become more of an option, but to suddenly say using leashes is "aiding" is just plain stupid! Dan E.

quote: Great idea, but FYI, the SpaceShot with batteries is heavier than a Zoom and a Tikka combined (both w/batteries). I have the latter setup and they both fit on my head w/o helmet. Weight was not a concern when I bought the Space Shot. I wanted maximum brightness and battery life, to use for climbing at night and or extended winter trips. This is something the Petzl Zoom can not offer. Besides I have my Tikka for when I want to go light! Dan E.

I was thinking more about this after reading the post by Dru under 'Colorado Ice Conditions' about the guy that was killed by falling ice recently. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=28&t=000038 It's still bugs me when I hear or read statements like, "The advent of modern ice climbing gear has made ice climbing safe and fun for the masses, ect". I had a discussion with a guy today and we were talking about the gear we used to climb with (he is old school, climbed back in the 80's with wooden shaft tools, ect.) I caught the end of the 'old-school era' Rigid friends will still common and all ice tools were straight shaft, my ice rack consisted mainly of fat snargs, my first crampons were Salewa 'Messner Scissors', ect. Anyway, we were talking about how ice climbing is still dangerous (duh!) and that modern gear is safer, but that does not mean ice climbing, per se is safer. So what's my point? Well, this accident goes to show that no matter what we have for gear, ice climbing is risky, much more than most orther types of climbing (with exceptions of course). So as most of us already know, but just for fun I made a list of things that can go wrong while ice climbing (feel free to add your favorite!). I also commented on how often these things happen from what I've experienced. (?) means I've heard about it, but it's never happened to me or I have never personally seen it happen, and or I don't know for sure how often it happens. ropes freeze and get stuck (too often!) screws pull or fail (?) picks break (occasionally) crampons and even boots fall off (rare) tools get dropped (occasionally) gloves freeze (often) fingers get frostbitten (occasionally) eyes get ice chips stuck in them (?) heads get hit with ice tools and people get knocked out (Rare, but I've seen this happen!) ice breaks, fractures, and falls on you (often!) the piece of ice you are climbing on falls with you attached! (rare) ice melts and you get wet (often! especially now!) climbers drown in waterfalls (rare) legs, necks and other body parts get broken when you fall (often! So of course we don't fall!) avalanches sweep climbers off the ice (too often!) and last.... climbers get frozen into solid blocks ofice! (very rare) Yes it's true, it happened to a guy on the Eiger, although he was probably dead before he froze behind solid ice, but still! Source: Eiger Wall of Death by Arthur Roth Dan E. [ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Sometimes a scream signals a release. I do this occasionally on ice after the last pitch of a hard and or scary lead. I am usually so calm and focused while climbing, so when I am done and anchored in and safe it feels good to give a good shout! Dan E.

Climbing ice w/o leashes is stupid (IMO). Who gives a rats ass about what the euros think. As for Android Leashes, the still kick arse! A few isolated problems with the clips, big freakin' deal. Any one who has been buying gear long enough should know to inspect it for defects. No climbing manufacturer produces 100% defect free products, it's impossible. BD products (again, IMO) are the best available. The make the best screws, strongest cams, and their quality control is much better than it used to be. Dan E.

I just got back from the Leavenworth area and I can confirm all of this, but it's even worse now. The upper pitches on Drury are gone and yes it's a raging waterfall! The Pencil is toast, except for a tiny bit at the top. Hubba Hubba is gone, except for a bit of ice on the left and to the right of the main flow. On a positive note there is lots of water flowing now and if we get a good cold front things should be looking good in a week or two. Let's all pray to the ice gods! Dan E. [ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

I bought the BD SpaceShot for my Rockies trip and I used it to approach murchison falls. After hiking for a while I realized I could get by with just the LED, which provides just enough light to see where you are going. So far I think this is the best headlamp I've ever owned, I previously used the Petzl Zoom and Micro. The fact that it has two bulbs (one halogen and one LED, plus an optional Xenon bulb and NiCad rechargable battery and also spare power made it the only choice for me). The only annoying thing is the external battery supply, but you get used to it and it helps save precious battery life. Dan E.

I used one around the Hostels up in the Rockies and realized that this little things throws off a ton of light. I also left it in the truck overnight (-27 deg c) and it still worked fine in the cold. I will be using it more this summer for those unplanned night descents! One thing to note is the illumination does fall off quick once the batteries get low, but I have yet to experience that. Dan E.

[ 01-08-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

I can't see that it would be easier than pressing a clip, but you're right I have not tried it (I did state that the Grivel was the only one I had not tried). I may try it out just to see the difference. Dan E.

A leash that allows me to unclip from my ice tool in seconds is worth well more than $40! If you get the attachment point right, many of the problems reported will be reduced or disappear. Use hose clamp and set attachment point as low as possible. Don't set too low or you won't be able to grab the top of the tool. If the attachment point is lower the clip in part on your wrist will be shorter making it easier to grab to re-clip, it will also help reduce the flopping around of the connection clip. I tuck the clip away when belaying so it does not get snagged (hardly a hassle). The Android may be complicated or high-tech, but IMO it makes ice climbing more enjoyable and helps simplify placing pro on lead, which as most ice climbers know is a big part of the game. This is why I think other leashes suck (I've used all of what is listed below, except for the Grivel) Twist leashes = Can't let tool hang (it can and will untwist and fall off!). So much for fist jams between icicles! Lockdown Leashes = Must adjust correctly or you hand goes numb and or freezes solid, also must re-adjust for each glove size. Takes longer to get hand free of leash and can be akward. Other clip Style Leashes (Grivel model) = Difficult to unclip mini-biner with big gloves and clip in point is not centered on the shaft of the ice tool, this could make swing less precise. Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Fred, If you are referring to the custom molded footbeds, I tried them out this summer on a hike into the Enchantments and I have to say they worked great (reduced foot pain for sure). My arches are collapsing, so my only alternative was orthotics which are usually hard as a rock and very expensive (also not usually covered by insurance, HMO's suck!) The best thing about them is the vacuum fit them to your un-weighted foot. Most orthotics are fit while you are standing, resulting in a insert that is molded with the problems that your foot has. I hope that makes sense, I am sure they can explain it better. Be sure to check out their website: http://www.superfeet.com/superfeet.html Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

Just tried these up in the Rockies and I have to say they are the best glove I've owned to date. I've used the following brand of gloves for ice climbing: Outdoor Research, Climb High, Mont-bel, and Mountain Hardware. They only glove that comes close to the Ice Glove is the Mont-bel, mainly because they have a gore-tex insert. The worst of the bunch were the MH, they leaked instantly, even after seam-gripping all seams from the inside! Positive Comments: Extremely waterproof (used on a climb that had of pouring water for about 15m and they did not leak!). Dexterous considering the amount of insulation (they are a warm glove, I sized them to be used with a thin polypro liner which increases warm as well. I have a fairly large hand and the lg. size fits me well with the liner on). They work well while frozen (after the pouring water section, temps were -9 deg. C) Knuckle padding is nice, the one good bash I did resulted in not feeling any pain, imagine that! Negative Comments: Elastic cuff could be a bit tighter. Expen$ive, but worth it money IMO. Dan E. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]