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chucK

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Everything posted by chucK

  1. Check This out seattle area crags
  2. Godzilla < Damnation < Crack of Doom < Breakfast of Champions Godzilla < Princely < GM ?
  3. Don't forget that story recently in the news about the guy teaching students to rappel who had other students doing the fireman's belay below. One person freaked out while rapping and wouldn't lower herself so the instructor was screaming "let go of the rope". The rappeller and the belayer both heeded his command and the rappeller fell (and died I think). As far as prussik above the rap device, supposedly that's far from failsafe. You have to grip to prussik to move, then if you get scared because you're going too fast, you might reflexively hold on tighter instead of letting the prussik go. I remember reading a long time ago about a group that experimented with this using ropes hung over a bridge. The subjects were people who knew what was going on and they had to let the end of the rap rope slip through their brakehand and simultaneously let go of the prussik. Even though they were belayed above by an extra line, many of them couldn't let go of the prussik and shot off the end of the rap rope.
  4. Which one's don't belong? 5.4: GNS, Tooth South Face, Midway 5.7: Diedre, Angel Crack, Spiderman 5.9: Moonshine Dihedral, Outer Space, Godzilla, Crack of Doom
  5. I agree. Give us some benchmarks. 5.8? 5.9? 5.10? 5.6? I think Beckey has some benchmarks in the Brown Beckey. I think Outer Space is one of his benchmarks for 5.9.
  6. What? So you can ridicule us because we think something is harder than you do? You first.
  7. It's truly stunning to think that (as that article implies) the true guiding motivation for the Iraq War was merely to gain domestic popularity for the regime. If that were really true, then they should be impeached and put in jail (15,000 counts of reckless endangerment for starters).
  8. Nobody died when Watergate was burglarized
  9. Well!!!?? I am ready to go now. Anybody want to head to Index, or sumpin? Get back to me soon, or I'm a headed to the pass.
  10. That's tomorrow I'm thinking of. Index? Castle Rock? Snow Creek Wall? Dreamer? This? Other? There is a catch. I can't leave Seattle until ~9am, so for sumpin like Snow Creek Wall or Dreamer you'll need to be fairly proficient/confident at 5.9. Send me a PM. If you're more interested in leaving and/or returning early, click here.
  11. I can probably swing it tomorrow, but I can't get out of Seattle 'til 9 am. Are you still tied to that back home by early afternoon deal? If not, let's go. Index would be my preference over Little Si though.
  12. One time when we did it, the leader took a roll of tape out of his pocket and jammed it in there. Kept the rope out, and I cleaned the tape on second! I wonder what kind of uproar it would cause if someone took a couple of wooden doorstops up there and pounded 'em in the rope eaters?
  13. chucK

    No Coffee

  14. check here . There is good information in that thread as well as links to other threads with good information. It could be that too much beta here will cloud your common sense, or it could be that the posted beta is misleading. The fact is, if you read those threads you will note that more than a couple people had route-finding problems despite/because of copious cc.com beta. If you get to the spot with no more bolts coming up, I would suggest thinking generally "what would I do if there were no more bolts" (because there aren't, for a while anyway). That oughta lead you to The Bush as it is the only obvious point of natural pro within a ropelength. Also keep in mind that you do have to go a bit right. Bring helmets, even if there are no parties ahead of you. I've had random rocks rain on me on that thing with noone above me. Oh, and as to your original question (time): depending on your skill level, you very well may not need an entire June day. However, I would recommend getting as early a start as possible (or earlier) because: 1) the tweety birds chirping at dawn make the approach hike so much milder 2) you really would rather not have people above you 3) if/when the sun comes up, you will bake 4) the best stuff is at the top, so you'd like every opportunity to get to that point 5) and if you get to the top, standard descent times appear to be in the 3 hour range
  15. chucK

    summer job?

    Just try to finagle an internship type deal where you only ask for work like two days per week (or more if the weather is shitty). If you're working in your field you'll probably make a lot more money than a random job.
  16. Looks like you got it right Forrest. From the CDC: Perform a tick check and remove attached ticks: The transmission of B. burgdorferi (the bacteria that causes Lyme disease) from an infected tick is unlikely to occur before 36 hours of tick attachment. For this reason, daily checks for ticks and promptly removing any attached tick that you find will help prevent infection. Embedded ticks should be removed using fine-tipped tweezers. DO NOT use petroleum jelly, a hot match, nail polish, or other products. Grasp the tick firmly and as closely to the skin as possible. With a steady motion, pull the tick's body away from the skin. The tick's mouthparts may remain in the skin, but do not be alarmed. The bacteria that cause Lyme disease are contained in the tick's midgut or salivary glands. Cleanse the area with an antiseptic. Taking preventive antibiotics after a tick bite: The relative cost-effectiveness of post-exposure treatment of tick bites to avoid Lyme disease in endemic areas (areas where the disease is known to occur regularly) is dependent on the probability of B. burgdorferi infection after a tick bite. In most circumstances, treating persons who only have a tick bite is not recommended. Individuals who are bitten by a deer tick should remove the tick promptly, and may wish to consult with their health care provider. Persons should promptly seek medical attention if they develop any signs and symptoms of early Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, or babesiosis.
  17. Will there be a hubcap hanging on the kiosk, so as not to contradict current approach descriptions? climber 1: "The guide doesn't say anything about a bulletin board thingy. I think we should keep driving." climber 2: "What about a kiosk? Does it say anything about a kiosk?"
  18. Though isn't the Beckey Guide wrong or at least misleading concerning the final topping-out chimney? As I remember, the sketch would send you up that 5.8(?) chimney-ish offwidth thingy on the N side (which is scrubbed by travel) whereas the true (easier) route is an easy chimney around the corner to the right.
  19. Is this guy spraying ... ...and if so, why is he wearing rock shoes? I guess this might be a good caption contest thread too?
  20. I always liked that about Eddie Bauer (when they still sold some outdoor stuff). You could get your polypro cheap once winter was over. When you wear only shorts over polypro, you run through your polypro pretty quickly .
  21. If that is really true, then they are jerks. People too focused on their own problems to do their jobs. ER or doctor at all is not a good profession for someone like that (at least for their patients anyway). Why anyone would find it important or valuable to lump more pain onto someone presenting with a severed ear or compound fracture is beyond me.
  22. Lately the armed forces are having trouble recruiting. Seems to me the only reason (other than being tricked) anyone not in an already desparate situation is going to sign up right now is for patriotism, to do something to help our country. Bush seems to think we are doing a great thing with these current wars. He probably () is being informed of the recruiting shortfalls and how they will soon cause problems for the march to freedom. Why won't Bush stand up and directly challenge young people do the right thing and volunteer for the armed forces?* * idea lifted from some liberal senator.
  23. I think it would be more relevant to direct your question to the executive and legislative branches. The supreme court decision has not commanded that MJ be illegal. It only says that in this case the executive branch has the power to enforce a federal law that contradicts state laws. It is the federal law that is the problem not the supreme court decision.
  24. chucK

    Dirtbag no more

  25. chucK

    Summer. Fuckineh.

    What if you touched it at night though? Does it cool off enough by, say, 4am?
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