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Well!!!?? I am ready to go now. Anybody want to head to Index, or sumpin? Get back to me soon, or I'm a headed to the pass.

That's tomorrow I'm thinking of. Index? Castle Rock? Snow Creek Wall? Dreamer? This? Other? There is a catch. I can't leave Seattle until ~9am, so for sumpin like Snow Creek Wall or Dreamer you'll need to be fairly proficient/confident at 5.9. Send me a PM. If you're more interested in leaving and/or returning early, click here.

I can probably swing it tomorrow, but I can't get out of Seattle 'til 9 am. Are you still tied to that back home by early afternoon deal? If not, let's go. Index would be my preference over Little Si though.

One time when we did it, the leader took a roll of tape out of his pocket and jammed it in there. Kept the rope out, and I cleaned the tape on second! I wonder what kind of uproar it would cause if someone took a couple of wooden doorstops up there and pounded 'em in the rope eaters?

check here . There is good information in that thread as well as links to other threads with good information. It could be that too much beta here will cloud your common sense, or it could be that the posted beta is misleading. The fact is, if you read those threads you will note that more than a couple people had route-finding problems despite/because of copious cc.com beta. If you get to the spot with no more bolts coming up, I would suggest thinking generally "what would I do if there were no more bolts" (because there aren't, for a while anyway). That oughta lead you to The Bush as it is the only obvious point of natural pro within a ropelength. Also keep in mind that you do have to go a bit right. Bring helmets, even if there are no parties ahead of you. I've had random rocks rain on me on that thing with noone above me. Oh, and as to your original question (time): depending on your skill level, you very well may not need an entire June day. However, I would recommend getting as early a start as possible (or earlier) because: 1) the tweety birds chirping at dawn make the approach hike so much milder 2) you really would rather not have people above you 3) if/when the sun comes up, you will bake 4) the best stuff is at the top, so you'd like every opportunity to get to that point 5) and if you get to the top, standard descent times appear to be in the 3 hour range

Just try to finagle an internship type deal where you only ask for work like two days per week (or more if the weather is shitty). If you're working in your field you'll probably make a lot more money than a random job.

Looks like you got it right Forrest. From the CDC: Perform a tick check and remove attached ticks: The transmission of B. burgdorferi (the bacteria that causes Lyme disease) from an infected tick is unlikely to occur before 36 hours of tick attachment. For this reason, daily checks for ticks and promptly removing any attached tick that you find will help prevent infection. Embedded ticks should be removed using fine-tipped tweezers. DO NOT use petroleum jelly, a hot match, nail polish, or other products. Grasp the tick firmly and as closely to the skin as possible. With a steady motion, pull the tick's body away from the skin. The tick's mouthparts may remain in the skin, but do not be alarmed. The bacteria that cause Lyme disease are contained in the tick's midgut or salivary glands. Cleanse the area with an antiseptic. Taking preventive antibiotics after a tick bite: The relative cost-effectiveness of post-exposure treatment of tick bites to avoid Lyme disease in endemic areas (areas where the disease is known to occur regularly) is dependent on the probability of B. burgdorferi infection after a tick bite. In most circumstances, treating persons who only have a tick bite is not recommended. Individuals who are bitten by a deer tick should remove the tick promptly, and may wish to consult with their health care provider. Persons should promptly seek medical attention if they develop any signs and symptoms of early Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, or babesiosis.

Will there be a hubcap hanging on the kiosk, so as not to contradict current approach descriptions? climber 1: "The guide doesn't say anything about a bulletin board thingy. I think we should keep driving." climber 2: "What about a kiosk? Does it say anything about a kiosk?"

Though isn't the Beckey Guide wrong or at least misleading concerning the final topping-out chimney? As I remember, the sketch would send you up that 5.8(?) chimney-ish offwidth thingy on the N side (which is scrubbed by travel) whereas the true (easier) route is an easy chimney around the corner to the right.

Is this guy spraying ... ...and if so, why is he wearing rock shoes? I guess this might be a good caption contest thread too?

I always liked that about Eddie Bauer (when they still sold some outdoor stuff). You could get your polypro cheap once winter was over. When you wear only shorts over polypro, you run through your polypro pretty quickly .

If that is really true, then they are jerks. People too focused on their own problems to do their jobs. ER or doctor at all is not a good profession for someone like that (at least for their patients anyway). Why anyone would find it important or valuable to lump more pain onto someone presenting with a severed ear or compound fracture is beyond me.

Lately the armed forces are having trouble recruiting. Seems to me the only reason (other than being tricked) anyone not in an already desparate situation is going to sign up right now is for patriotism, to do something to help our country. Bush seems to think we are doing a great thing with these current wars. He probably () is being informed of the recruiting shortfalls and how they will soon cause problems for the march to freedom. Why won't Bush stand up and directly challenge young people do the right thing and volunteer for the armed forces?* * idea lifted from some liberal senator.

I think it would be more relevant to direct your question to the executive and legislative branches. The supreme court decision has not commanded that MJ be illegal. It only says that in this case the executive branch has the power to enforce a federal law that contradicts state laws. It is the federal law that is the problem not the supreme court decision.

What if you touched it at night though? Does it cool off enough by, say, 4am?

That Steel Pulse crack is pretty cool. And his first picture does look like that. How in hell do you get into that Steel Pulse crack? I figure you really gotta be really tall, or you just fall over toward it and pray (what I did).

I think you're fooling yourself if you think that widespread legal MJ availibility would not cause death. It may be true (and it may not) that pot smoking is less of a health hazard than cigarette smoking. The studies appear to indicate that pot is more detrimental per unit smoked, but probably the average pot smoker user would smoke less than the average cig smoker per day. But nevertheless, I think it's clear that smoking either stuff is not good for you in many ways. Even if your assumption of lesser degree of risk from MJ is correct, calling for murder charges for tobacco industry execs in the same breath as extolling the virtues of corporate MJ campaigns is ridiculous.

What a disconnected post. You seem to be railing against the tobacco industry for making money selling a dangerous product, and at the same time cheering on the notion of creating another such industry.

The last "pitch" of the standard route is solid. It's just that gulley getting up to it that's ugly. Supposedly you can avoid the messy gulley by just staying on the PCT until it passes Huckleberry, then traverse back on the ridge line to the notch, which is much less chossy. Nice job doing that West Face!

Where do you use a #4? I think a #3 Camalot was the largest I've placed on Dreamer. Double ropes are useful cause there's some crazy traversing and retraversing on a pitch or two.

Dumb pulp novel out right now that uses this story "High Sierra" by Nevada Barr

Yeah, I always figured the best way to help newbies learn how to correctly place a cam was to restrict their usage. BTW: I LOVE HEXES!!! (in moderation) never more than 3 on a rack on blocky terrain with lots of large cracks with constrictions (think Mt. Stuart)

The large number of posts in support of hexes is a sign of an increasingly desperate insurgency.