chucK

You can still do the Grand Wall and Cruel Shoes even with the falcon closures can't you?

This hasn't been brought up yet, probably because it's not feasible...but just in case. It sounds like your job is very demanding and you go more by "getting it done" instead of putting in the hours, but is there any way that you could work out some way to contract taking off just like one day a week? That would give you an extra day to hang with your kids and family and just generally destress. Anyway, probably is not feasible because I remember posts lately where you are even being forced to work on weekends. But maybe at least worth typing this out. And what about just scheduling a two-week vacation? Can they keep you from doing that? That might remove you from your current stress box and let you more carefully contemplate this big move.

Porter could you please go through this thread (and others of the same era) and update all the gremlin/smiley guys. Thanks!

bump

GM!!!! best 5.9 at Index. Except for the scary 4th class start, you can sew it up (Bring two #3 Camalots). After the first pitch and a half there's chains on a ledge, where you have a choice. You can go right for the Heart of the Country finish. It is the super-sweet handcrack you always fantasize about. Or you can finish left via GM proper for some wider crack burliness (North Ridge of Stuart Gendarme OW simulator). There's a one-move offwidth problem that starts it that can be significantly tamed with a #6 Camalot (or old style #5, Green).

IB a week ago

Here's some climbs I've done at Castle --------------------------------------- Fault/Catapult/Bone Brass Balls Saints Angel Damnation/Midway Direct (or Direct Direct) Midway South Face JT Old Gray Mare/Crack of Doom Canary Cat Burglar Saber Century That's a bunch. They are all doable by a weekend warrior. Of that list only a couple are fairly hard, and only a couple I thought were sorta sucky. All concentrated closely together. Super simple descent. Pearly Gates: I went and got a tour from a local (Telemarker). Fun, aesthetic climbs, but all basically one pitch (though some can be contrived into two). But We polished 'em all off and were bored by 2pm. I guess there were a couple of 5.7's that we didn't do. Duty Dome and Careno are cool if following bolt trails doesn't stick in yer craw. Careno you can whip off a bonch o' pitches by taking a couple of laps and mixing and matching through the terraces. Duty you can find some varied stuff, but you gotta work pretty hard. Haven't been to Clem's or Midnight. From what I've heard though, you're gonna have a hard time calling Midnight a good place for moderates.

Yes I heard that too, but it's a series of small huts they are planning to build at some of the more exposed belays on Europa to protect the climbers from wind and sunburn.

I really like tansnaffle's defintion. with these criteria, I'm thinking of climbs where I've literally shouted with joy while climbing. Obviously, this strict defintion will be influenced by many other temporal factors besides the pure aesthetics of the climb (e.g. mood, gravity-level that day, weather, etc...) so YMMV. Anyway, these come to mind: Epinephrine (Red Rocks) North Ridge of Stuart NW corner NEWS West Face NEWS Lost Charms Static Point A couple that I've enjoyed more sitting around camp with a drink in hand (in the middle of the climb): Index Traverse NEB Johannesburg

Yep, they can definitely shorten your climbing day down there. Don't know how consistent it is though.

What's your point? I don't recall Matt hammering on the guy in the Christ thread. Are you saying that because Matt does not jump into every fray voicing his opposition to needless bashing of posters, that he is precluded from voicing his opinion on this one?

What is humble and non-superior about making a negative judgment about someone else's motives for climbing?

Someone said use less cordelettes, but I'm thinking those setups could be simplified by actually adding another sling. Maybe equalize the two close-together pieces with the cordelette, and then use a shoulder-length sling (or the climbing rope) for the third piece. That would give you basically the same setup, but would be much less futzing around time in the setup I'd guess. Getting all those things connected in a reasonable manner with just one cordelette is certainly a tour-de-force in knot theory, but may have taken quite a while. There's not rule saying you are only allowed one sling (unless that's all you have ). Also, more slings often means better redundancy.

I don't have hostilities toward you JayB, just the annoying shit you post and the way you go about it. But I guess since we don't ever pal around in real life, and posting on cc.com is our only interaction, I guess the distinction is somewhat moot. Hopefully I'll never be asking you for a job.

This thread was about Rudy hating his job and discussing ways one deals with issues like that. It is NOT about "examples of bad union stuff and in order to tell you that story we need to argue about relative difficulty of obtaining hard science degree versus fluffy liberal arts degree". You should just STFU and leave this thread. Start your own thread if you want to discuss the failings of assorted liberal ideologies. I'm sure plenty of folks would jump right in and oblige you. Ditto with respect to your participation in Cheamclimbers "weird sickness" thread.

Shit KKK yourlogic here seems to be being bent by dogma. You're using lawyer logic. WWI and WWII are models we don't want to emulate? In favor of our Iraq tactics? You're not a believer in empirical evidence I gather. I'd say it could easily be argued that we saved 10's of thousands of American lives by staying out of both of those wars until we did, especially WWI, and the WWII European front. What would you have had us do in WWII Pacific, invade Japan? Send our boys over to China? Oh that would have saved American lives for sure....

Why do routes at Vantage even have names? They should just have numbers. Or at the most some sort of 1984 newspeak designations. fingercrackplusgoodcuntlapper #3 areteloosebad4boltsmegma #7 etc..

Try this link The Feathers and Sunshine Wall

wDVDu4ZcU3Q

Republican strategist on upcoming election: "I think Republicans who say they would rather run against Hillary are naive," said Castellanos. "Let's not ask to lick that cold, frozen metal bar again."

Wow Bill that quote is pretty damning of Clinton, but also tough to swallow a lot of it. IIRC in "The Looming Tower", a book JayB references frequently, nobody in the US intelligence knew anything of Bin Laden until after the Cole bombing (2000?). Your quote talks about how the Clinton admin knew he was around back in 1993 and somehow failed in the first WTC bombing. But the follow-up to the first WTC was actually considered a huge victory for the FBI, an arrest, and a conviction in a real court, something the Bush administration is having a lot of trouble doing. Also if you do a Google search on Richard Minter the first link I found was an interview on CNN where he says "We just never had eyes on bin Laden in the pre-9/11 situation. The 9/11 commission investigated this. The House and Senate joint committee investigated this and published a 1,000-page report. I looked into it extensively. Most of the sources for my book are Clinton administration officials. There’s just no basis for this at all, none." That seems to contradict a lot of the above statements, where he lists a bunch of times that we supposedly had our hands right on Bin Laden's throat. Anyway, thanks for bringing this to our attention. It makes the Clinton admin. seem much worse than I understood, and I'll be interested in finding out more where this may lead, but on it's face, your article does seem too one-sided to be credible.

Such a restrained insult! Coming from you it sounds like a compliment.

Maybe they're not really rich! Maybe they are merely overextended morons who, with Obama's help, are going to collapse the economy!

Nice dodge. So is it Bush's bailout plan that you fear is going to collapse our economy? If so, I think you're being a bit overdramatic. Or is it another bailout plan/government fix that you fear? You specifically referenced Obama in your first entry. Is his plan that which has your panties in a wad? How exactly is his plan going to collapse our economy?

What are these government fixes you guys are wailing about anyway? Are you upset about Bush's wishy-washy plan to ask bankers to voluntarily freeze ARM resets for a while? That plan will punish banks who took out (or bought) bad loans. It will give over-extended home buyers a bit more time to get their ducks in a row, but ain't gonna bail 'em out forever. I'm sure that will bring us "closer to a collapse of our financial system" . Is there another plan out there that will make all these house-flippers millionaires? Or are you just frothing at the mouth over vague generalities? Not that there's anything wrong with that.