chucK

Mostly this has already been written, but if you are worried, you can have a back-up (make sure the backup is NOT weighted and use a screamer if you got one), have the heavier climber descend first (with pack), then when the first is on safe ground and/or anchored below, that person can jump up and down (bounce test) the thing. Putting on another sling is good too . [ 11-07-2002, 10:56 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

A truely excellent thread so far. You guys really took some effort to post some well written thoughts to the board. I guess what struck Matt and Steve about Mike's essay was the desire to get back and "defeat" his demons. One thing that also stood out to me were his ponderings on the meanings of success/defeat. He notes that what he did summit, he doesn't really consider great success because the outcome was never in doubt. What Mike's essay brings out to me is a lament that he passed up a chance for the type of adventure where he was unsure of victory from the outset. One that required all his faculties, rather than just going through the motions. That is where I find my greatest joy in climbing. Sure there are other great aspects, doing something fun in the outdoors being high on the list, but overcoming obstacles when the success was not a given is what really sticks to my ribs. Here's something I posted to rec.climbing a while back. Obviously, my adventures don't even fall in the universe of those of the above guys, but I think this essay sort of fits in here. Hope you guys don't think it soils this currently excellent discussion. > > What's it all about to you? The Onsight. It can be a 12-pitch crack route, or finding my way the summit of a non-technical peak. That's one aspect of what it's "all about" to me. Perhaps I'll qualify further and estrange the popular notion of "onsight". A first attempt it not sufficient nor necessary for this criteria. What floats my boat is completion of a task for which the outcome was not assured. A crag pitch I've never done but 2 grades below my usual level and every move visible from the base doesn't qualify. A summit with a trail to the top might; if I've only got 2 hours, I'm wearing running shoes and cotton pants and there's 4 inches of new snow on the last mile. Heading out into the unknown territory. Making the choice to push through that scary lieback, not knowing when/if it will relent. Yarding up through the steep brush by compass bearing. Choosing which coulouir. Agonizing whether to take that #4 Camalot. Fretting on the weather. These make the beer waiting on the back seat of the car so much cooler. Getting committed and figuring it out (not necessarily in that order). Clipping the anchors, wobbly-legged, with hands that won't clench. Standing on a new summit, 1/2 hour behind schedule, calculating how long you can really afford to sit and enjoy the view. That's The Shit. [ 11-07-2002, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

What is it with you're guys' Allison fixation?? Get over it!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: Greg, that is about the stupidest thing I have heard you say... Instead they sit at home watching fucking Sally Jesse Rafael and downing Malomars and fried chicken like it's an olympic sport. Hey Greg! You just proved Lambone wrong. Very nifty! What's a Malomar?

ehmic, You're going to have plenty of money for school by saving all the money you used to spend on beer .

Not to be negative or anything , but that Pig joint was not of Pub Club caliber. No pitchers . I say we BAN that stupid pig joint!

Hey guys! Check THIS! out.

The beach North of Golden Gardens is a good place. Walk North on the beach at low tide. There are lots of rock works for the railroad. Many cracks in between. Better stuff further North. If the tide comes in you might have to get wet or trespass on the railroad and possibly die. There's a flood-control/bird sanctuary/art-garden thingy at 105th ST NE and 39th Ave NE. There's a group of three Vantage-type pillar stones put together close enough to form cracks between. It's only about 3 feet high or so, so you won't be able to bounce test or anything but if you live nearby, it might be worth a trip to fiddle gear into the irregular cracks then yank on them to see how well they do or don't hold. As Mattp said the UW rock has totally parallel cracks so not very interesting, but there are some boulders on the East side of The Rock that are set close enough together to have cracks between, probably the least interesting of these three but you can do some bouldering there too .

Trask, Brilliant idea! If we publicly pledge SA is up for grabs, then maybe Saddam will invade them, then we finally have good reason to invade Iraq again!!!

minor points: climbing related advice Early on someone mentioned Vantage as a good place for the newbie gear leader to learn. No! This is not good advice. Vantage is steep. Thus, finding enough good stances to concentrate on the new task of placing gear is not easy to do. Not to mention that the rock quality is dubious. People talked about climbing with internet blind dates. Some are willing, some aren't. Let me tell you this, if you post more TR's however insignificant (they don't all have to be as good as Uncle Tricky's) you clue people in to your abilities, and makes these blind dates less blind. Outer Space is not a good climb to bring climbers of unknown (or known lesser) abilities. The crux is a traverse people!! And the pitch after has a long runout traverse. Also the original start and the Remorse start have unprotected traverses. Plus if someone fell at the crux, there is not a good way to get back on the climb even if they weren't hurt. Rapping versus lowering from the non-anchor. Highlander hit it best. Downclimb, trying not to weight the anchor. Rapping would appear a poor choice since she would have to untie from the rope to set up the rap, then she wouldn't even have the lower pieces to protect her. Lowering is not going to make that big a difference on the placements, bodyweight vs. 1.67*bodyweight. You'd have to be pretty lucky/unlucky to find an anchor where one of those would hold and the other wouldn't.

OK I just read this WHOLE damn thing and I'm gonna pipe up before it gets removed again. Main point: People bashed the meanie naysayers, and the bashers had a point. Not because their meanieness was mean though, but because their meanieness rendered their messages negatively effectual. After the first couple of jerky posts, Anna came back on and sounded emboldened! When Chips toned down his act it appeared much more effectual. Perhaps this is a lesson for the posters of this board to heed? Next point: Climbing is dangerous! When someone comes online and posts about how they almost killed themselves, there are a lot of ways to respond, but in my opinion, gushing about how climbing is so great, and encouraging that person to go right back out there, is NOT the thing to do. It's ANNA's business. She knows what's up with climbing and what she does and doesn't like about it. Let her decide. One really shouldn't be encouraging someone to participate in this inherently risky behavior.

trad = trees are part of route sporto = vegetation (and crack next to bolts) are "off"

Sorry for that. I guess I was most interested in your report of these "pussies" who fold like a house of cards in person. The way you write that makes it sound like you've witnessed this. Who were the folders? Name names!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: You must be one of these pussies who acts all tough on the board and folds like a house of cards in person. I have heard you are actually quite a nice guy in person. Does that make you "one of these pussies"?

Wouldn't the egg and sperm of a hermaphrodite be carrying the same DNA? If this is true then the product would have the identical structure wouldn't it?

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: [QBI don't have your # on me.[/QB] ...interest rates just went down.

...would the product be considered a clone?

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: So...bring your luge for the decent down the Granite Sidewalk? ...plus crampons and a comb.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter:

Apparently Spada Res. Point is still open! That's cool. I thought the signs said the road would be closed as of 10/31. Is there any new info about when it closes? Thanks for updating the Am Pie bolts guys (you rock ). I heard that that's a good one. Did you guys get to climb it? [ 11-04-2002, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

Great TR UT! Thanks. You rock . Though from the title I thought it was gonna be a work by Layton or Necromicon . [ 11-04-2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

I've been away from the board for a couple of days and check out the length of this thread! Looks serious too . Could somebody help me out here. Is this quarter K thread worth reading?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Name The Route This Photo Taken On! Overexposure?

So has anybody here ever met Dan Larson? That is, perhaps he is an avatar? Dan Larson = mikeadam ? Dan Larson = Peter Puget? Dan Larson = scottyrx??!

Me too! Click on my site then buy me a beer! I worked many a late hour dicking around with that site (and drank a lot of beer too! ) Please buy me some beer.