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Everything posted by chucK
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Yeah! That's right! I bet they found Buku WMD already but they can't tell us....because it would cause widespread panic and looting because....dun dun dun...they are currently ready to blow at undisclosed locations in every major city in the US and a few minor cities too . I think that's justification enough to invade Iran AND Syria. RIGHT NOW!!!!! So we can avoid unimaginable loss of American lives!!! Anybody who disagrees with this is obviously in league with those bastards who are waiting with their dirty fingers on the triggers RIGHT NOW !!!!
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DOH! sorry i forgot that part Maybe you just need some more creativity. You could probably get sit starts on pitches that begin on a ledge. Every pitch that has a hanging belay below it is a sit start.
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There must by some laybacking testpieces out there. Anybody got any? Zigzag pitch on NW Corner NEWS? 9 Spineless at Index 10 There must be some at Squamish, but I haven't done 'em. That Perry's Layback looks way cool. Doesn't everybody layback the Split Pillar? Diedre and Apron Strings also seem to get the layback treatment (I have climbed those).
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OK, then if that's the case it ain't no testpiece! First pitch of Outer Space crack = 5.7 crack testpiece
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I think Tex's definition is laudable but makes finding a 'testpiece' almost impossible. I think if you subdivide it into grade and climbing type, then you can get good testpieces. The 5.x climbtype testpiece should have much sustained 5.x climbtype climbing. So, here's a few Godzilla : 5.9 corner Shock Treatment: 5.10 slab Breakfast of Champions: 10a handcrack Klahanie Crack: 5.6 handcrack Sloe Children 5.10 thin crack Old Gray Mare 5.8 face Damnation 5.9 wide cracks Canary p1 5.8 weird
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PUSSY GALORE "DIAL 'M' "
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Just climbed it today. Thanks guys . That move to the corner IS f**ked for 10b and that last pitch is scary (no bolts to cheat on on that one). End Run and Free Cat over at Hag Crag both got scrubbed and rebolted too. Looks great. That fat crack over there got a bolt put next to it. with that?
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You guys are all wrong! This one has size AND weight. It is The Shit!!
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OK let's try again. Anybody wanna climb something Monday (today?). PM me. I can drive this time.
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Here's some hyperbole related to Exit 38. I was just out a Darrington the other day thinking back about climbing at Index a couple of weeks before and I thought, "Shit!! These crags around Seattle, they got some KILLER views!!". Think about it, Index, Darrington, Static Point, Icicle Creek, Mt. Eerie, even Vantage, they all got some rawkin' views!!! But Exit 38? Most of the time you're in buggy second-growth brown lifeless jungle. Maybe, if you hike all the way up to Bob's wall, you can look out through the slash at another clearcut above over an Interstate Freeway. That said. Everyone should go to Exit 38. Ya'll'll like it out there. Don't drive your own car though.
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I woulda but noone wanted to go with me today Are ALL the bolts replaced or just the p1 ones?
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Nameless Tower Route is my favorite. Godflesh is cool too.
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Yeah, what does "pizdec" mean anyway?
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How about that Pisces Crack on the Great Northern Slab. Now there is a place to place Hexes. Your newbie second will lose much skin removing those babies . Stoppers are bomber dood. You definitely want to learn how to place those. Cams are bomber too. You definitely want to learn how to place those. Hexes . I don't see the utility in learning those if you're just going to abandon them once you get good anyway. Buy a complete set of stoppers ('cept not the body weight size). Like Retro said, WC style are good. BD are pretty good, but don't get below like a #3. HB offsets are awesome, but might be a better as a supplement to a full range of another brand. So are DMM Wallnutz. Start with just a couple cams, maybe a couple camalots between .5 and 2. That way you'll use 'em and learn, but you won't be able to completely ignore the stoppers. Camalots are a good choice for the beginner because they have the wider camming range. Hmm...I think everybody said all this already.
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True enough about Nevermind. It's got the river noise to drown out or mask the freeway noise and you're not climbing directly on a road cut. Let's head up there right now Flebby! (you drive ) All those roadcut craglets definitely suck though.
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you are all sooooooo suck !!!!!!! just kidding. I actually hate myself, not you
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you are all sooooooo suck !!!!!!! just kidding. I actually hate myself not you
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Mounties and WAC climbing the Tooth this weekend
chucK replied to Thinker's topic in Climber's Board
More like lack of leader idiocy. C'mon! The leader is shepherding 8 newbies, 2 of which are guaranteed to be clueless, up this thing. Don't you think it might be a good idea for the leader to know the proposed climb inside and out? -
Mounties and WAC climbing the Tooth this weekend
chucK replied to Thinker's topic in Climber's Board
Too funny Lammy -
Last I heard, college was not mandatory. I think you've got a little tunnel-vision like in the other thread you started. Take a look around, see if there are better options than going to college. If so, drop out and take the better route. If not, then stay in school and count your blessings. You're Welcome.
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Here's an idea. Try climbing up the crack until it feels or looks like it is too difficult and that you might fall. This is your cue to look around for other holds that will make the upward progress easier. Another idea is to tie knots in the climbing rope every 10 feet or so. When your belayer tugs and says, "hey wait, there's a knot in the rope, I need to untie it. Are you in a good spot?", this will be a cue to look around and scan the rock for non-crack holds. Try imagining that you are in the gym and the crack is "out". Hope this helps
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Mounties and WAC climbing the Tooth this weekend
chucK replied to Thinker's topic in Climber's Board
I went to this really popular often-crowded place this one time. We walked through this crowd of people and ended up climbing something they had been climbing on before. They didn't stop us. Later this guy from the group came up and talked to us. F**KIN F**K F**K F**K Can you believe that crap!!! -
Mounties and WAC climbing the Tooth this weekend
chucK replied to Thinker's topic in Climber's Board
closed ski resorts