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She might have been too busy actually climbing to have caught the most recent "pins on GD" flamefest.

Fern, your statement may be logically sound, but starts with a false premise. The issue is altering the route. A fixed piton is going to alter the nature of climbing on the route much more than the scarring that results from removing the piton.

Truest thing you ever said. Is this a call for privatization of USFS campgrounds?

this works on mine (older version) select an area using the rectangle thingy do file -> save map as then choose jpeg in the filetype option

So where the F is it tonight? I vote Ballard Ale House! Although the place is cool, the Sloop is just too late into the mix.

When will those goddamned Mounties learn (and teach their stupid students) that fashion is so much more important than function when climbing! What a bunch of dorks!!!! I don't think they even mention posing in any of their lectures. with that? Sheesh!

I don't like laying the rope over the tie-in because it usually turns into a big mess if I move around much. Plus, it sorta gets in the way. Plus, if your second wimps out, err...decides he doesn't wanna lead the next pitch, you gotta drop all the rope anyway. I usually just pile the damn rope up on the ledge I'm standing on if there is one. If not, I usually get an extra sling (those stupid stiffy dogbone draws will not work for this), hang it from the anchor and flake the rope through this. If I don't got a sling or a place to pile then I use Bob's method. I usually don't have a problem with the ropes tangling (and I often use double ropes). Some guys just let the rope drape down the entire pitch, but I worry that this could be a big problem if a loop gets stuck on something below when your partner is leading above. More experienced guys than me do this though.

Serious! You just need to pass the basic class.

Mountaineers dude! You're already qualified to be a rope leader I think.

I wonder why they don't just call it 2 months leave without pay (mandatory)? Then they could advertise a much better monthly rate!

So you wanna help people AND get the big bucks AND work 20 hours per week! I'll be watching this thread to get the answer to this one. Hopefully it's one where you can drink on the job too (and the company pays for the beer ). How about a doctor? They help people sometimes. They take days off too.

Rewarding? You mean as in personal fulfillment? My picture of guiding is of anything but that. First you get yourself sick to death of something you currently love (mountains, climbing). Second the pay just can't be that good. Third, the "helping" you do for people is in the realm of helping people with enough money to spend 250$/day do something they consider "extreme". If you're looking for something you could start doing right now to help people and still have enough time to go climbing, I would recommend becoming a teacher or a fire fighter.

What's that three rules of guiding thing? 1. The client is trying to kill himself 2. The client is trying to kill you 3. one other?

An interesting variation on the "dollar on a string"!

OK, that accounts for two. I think Dan - put in the other two.

You might have tendonitis.

Some people like to stay later than 10pm. That is what is wrong with it. Duh!

They are pretty good to use as an adjunct piece to a monster cam. You can slide the monster cam above you as you climb, and set a bigbro or two as the leaver pieces. This is preferable for a few reasons. Those giant cams are pretty unstable, especially when tipped near their maximum. They're much better suited to a bodyweight (perma-toprope) piece that is being continuously monitored, than as a leaver piece that might fall out as you thrutch by it, or jiggle the rope one too many times. With the security of the big-cam "toprope" you can fiddle with the big bro until you have a bombproof leaver placement. The big bros are less bulky and lighter than the giant cams. A mix of big bros big cams is less weight and hassle than all big cams.

from their webpage Hale's Pub is open seven days a week Sunday - Thursday 11 AM - 10 PM Friday & Saturday 11 AM - 12 AM

So how come I don't see any of you bozo's (errr...people who actually go climbing) posting about going to climb at Exit 32 (Little Si)? Did that place get closed down or something?

Two prussiks. I carry a prussik and a cordelette on my harness. Attach the prussik to my belay loop (and to the rope via prussik knot) and rig a texas-prussik-like thingy outa the cordelette for the feet part.

This reminds me...last week returning from a plane flight we shared our bus ride to the airport parking with this woman who appeared to have the permanently fixed on her face. Very annoying! Glad I only had to spend < 10 minutes in her presence.

OK, here's another one, somewhat related to the first. Those people that run and scream at the bus to wait for them (wait wait, this is not what irks me... everyone is late once in a while...) What bugs me is...once it is established that the bus is actually going to have pity and wait for the person, THEN they stop running and walk agonizingly slow all the way to the bus while all twenty plus people on the bus wait even longer on their sorry ass.

Mountain Goat