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  2. Alpine wilderness honeymoon recovery

    sounds like a honeymoon to remember!
  3. Today
  4. for sale K2 Panoramic Splitboard w/ Kwicker Bindings $1000

    Hi there, I know your ad is really old but I'd probably take that stuff off your hands if you still have it. My name is John, give me a call if you still have it. 9707595659. Thanks.
  5. The bag has NEVER BEEN USED and stored in a Western Mounteering cotton storage bag in a closet for almost a year. FEATURES: Size 6’ 0” Left Zip 850 Plus Fill Power Goose Down Fill Weight 32 oz 8.5” Loft, -100F Insulated Hood & Down Collar MicroLite XP™Fabric Cotton Storage Bag & Stuff Bag Measured Total Weight 49.4oz/3.1lb Will throw in a Sea to Summit eVENT XL/30L COMPRESSION DRY SACK ($49.95 ) I accept PayPal as payment. I prefer Friends and Family, OR add 3%, that is fine too. Price includes standard USPS shipping in CONUS only. For communications ONLY THROUGH my email: kenlarson40 at chartermi dot net
  6. Trip: Boston Peak + Sahale - East Face Trip Date: 08/22/2019 Trip Report: After getting drenched on a hike to Hidden Lake Peak 8/21, Steffi and I headed up to the Cascade Pass Parking lot where we would camp for the night, hoping for clearer skies in the morning. We woke at 5am, and were moving up the low-grade switchbacks to Sahale Arm by 6am. After a couple hours of hiking in a dense fog, we were ready to setting for a socked in Sahale summit and early return to Seattle, but as we climbed higher blue skies emerged above. After 3 hours we reached the benign Sahale Glacier, where we donned our crampons and got our first good views of the summit block. We opted not to rope up since the glacier looked very benign, and this late in the season any crevasses would be easily navigable. It took us about 45 minutes to slog to the SE ridge of Sahale, end-running two small crevasses and crossing a wide snow bridge on a third. There was some exposed ice at the start of the glacier but it had all softened considerably. This glacier is very benign but the crevasses are still worthy of caution. Once we got off snow we went back into rock mode and scrambled up to the Sahale summit block. We didn't know there was a nice bootpack higher on the ridge but it wouldn't have made much of a difference. The climbing steepened from 2nd to 3rd class, and there was a short 4th class section that brought us to a notch between the two summits of Sahale. We then wrapped around the back right side and took an exposed 4th class slab to the summit. It took us a little over four and a half hours to get there from the car, and clouds were hanging around 7500' and staying there, so I decided I would go for Boston. Steffi had some gnarly blisters from her new boots, so I would be going alone. We only had one rope so we rapped from the summit down the South side, where we talked about our game plan for meeting back up a few hours later at the top of the Sahale Glacier. I took the rope and while Steffi downclimbed the rest of the class 3 scramble, I traversed back to the 4th class step up to the notch and around the summit block to the knife-edge ridge that stood between Sahale and Boston. Now the real fun begins. The exposure on the ridge scramble was fantastic. For some of the ridge there is a low-angle slab that almost feels like a sidewalk right on the crest, and occasionally there was a climbers trail until a bit after the Sahale-Boston Col. The rock quality gets significantly worse right below the ridge crest, so I stayed on top or level with the knife edge heading up from the Col to a notch south of the last tower before Boston Peak. If you are at any point more than 10 feet below the ridge crest on this portion, you are off route. At one point there is a super cool 2ft wide side-walk slab feature right before you leave the ridge as well. You'll see it on the way back but it's great fun if you can get on it on the way up Boston. Once I got to the aforementioned notch, I spotted the Boston Glacier about 70-100 feet below me, with a faint bootpack headed towards the route. Dropping from this notch to the glacier was the sketchiest part of the whole climb for me, with very large, loose blocks to navigate. There were a few awesome bivy spots along the ridge, including one right at the Sahale-Boston Col. Second pic is looking back at Sahale The short snow traverse was straightforward and easy. Head North above the massive bergschrund and below a moat for a couple minutes before heading up a steeper (45 degrees?) 40 foot section to the highest point of snow on the East Face. There's a nice big ledge here and the second ledge mentioned in the summitpost article is visible while dropping down to the snow and on some of the traverse. The traverse heads up to a small ledge just right of the highest snow pictured Take the shortest route (class 3/4 for about 15-20ft) up to a long meandering ledge which heads North along the East Face. Eventually this ledge begins turning into a series of small platforms with class 3 steps in between them. Just keep heading up and right until reaching a steep face with a ledge in front of it which heads left. Turning left, there is a short class 3 chimney feature which will bring you to another ledge and the crux of the route. The crux is a left leaning class 4 chimney with crazy exposure below. I've read an alternative route is to head up the rib to the right but I took the chimney. Once past this, it's a breathtaking class 2 ridge walk to the summit. It took me 37 minutes to reach the base of the climb from leaving the first rap off Sahale, and another 15 minutes to scramble to the top. I took the left chimney up, using some holds on the slab to the left The summit is awesome. Let's just leave it at that. The famous summit register dates back to 1967 and has many famous names and great stories throughout. I spent 30 minutes perusing it before begrudgingly leaving, knowing Steffi had been waiting for me back at Sahale this whole time. The rock quality on the East Face seems to have been cleaned up quite a bit by bulger hunters over the last decade. That said, there are still many loose blocks and every hold should be tested and weighted with care. The exposure on this route is also sustained and intense. From when you leave the Sahale-Boston col it's a no-fall zone until the summit- don't do this climb if you don't like heights. Getting to the first rap station is a bit airy going over a big crack but is nothing more than class 3. I replaced some webbing and set up the first rappel, which has a great view of the whole descent route. My biggest fear on this part was getting my rope stuck on the pull or pulling loose blocks so I took my time coming down. The rappel route has a lot of very loose blocks and I'm surprised this was the standard ascent route for years. All 3 raps (25m, 20m, 28m) were straightforward, but I did pull down some pebble scree on the final rope pull. The last rap takes you to the start of the route, and a 60m rope was just long enough to get me there. The traverse back to Sahale was everything above in reverse, and was very chill. Looking back at Sahale Heading back up to Sahale I met up with Steffi a few minutes ahead of schedule, and we made our way back down to the car. Luck would have it that the cloud layer which hung at 7500' all day would rise past us as we descended, giving us great views of Johannesburg and the like on our descent. Total time c2c was about 12 hours, and after over 10k feet of vert in the 24 hours which led up to Boston, we were happy to be back. Awesome day. Summit view summitpanorama.mov Gear Notes: 60m rope for raps Approach Notes: Up via Sahale Arm and tagged Sahale summit on the way
  7. Beacon

    8/24 - day 19 - laps 41, 42 n' 43 meant it was a douglas adams day (shamefully i must admit i forget my towel, but proudly i can say i did not panic) - 3 days in the alpine lakes wilderness didn't beat me down enough i guess, 'cuz the girl-child asked to get carted out to skamania for the afternoon to cavort w/ her polish friends and i rallied to run laps while letting her have her what-have-you - summer is doomed and so are you
  8. Yesterday
  9. heck yes! thx for the detailed report, good stuff.
  10. That wall is taller and steeper than you might expect. I would def not recommend descending this side of the feature. I still think the best descent will be the way we went, S/SE to the gully, or just next to it, that leads North. It seems much safer, has way fewer raps, and would be far less exposed than the lines you suggest in the pic above. This climb falls in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. We didn't place any bolts and do not have plans to add any. Power drills are not allowed in any case. If you want bolts, go climb Infinite Bliss or Training Day or Mile High Club. If you want a more committing mountain adventure and are willing to embrace some risk, uncertainty, and discomfort give this route a shot. Rapping in the dark may just be part of the package unless you're super fast. You could bring a light kit and sleep on top. Be safe and have fun!
  11. Climbing Partners

    Anyone interested in Vesper’s Ragged Edge this Tu or Wednesday?
  12. Looking for Partners

    Ragged Edge Tu or Wednesday anyone?
  13. Beacon bolting question

    the first rule of talking to cops is...? the top of the corner does not need a bolted anchor
  14. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Dragons of Eden 07/19/2019

    DOE takes no prisoners!!! Glad to see folks getting after it, not an easy route...! On the 2nd ascent of the route Jens and I broke the headwall into 3 pitches and he onsighted from a semi hanging belay near the wide section thru the roof to the belay your using on the upper headwall. No way in hell we could have freed that upper bit without the scrubbing we did on our next mission.
  15. Looks awesome! Thanks for posting and the great beta.
  16. Recently my wife and I had a planned honey moon hike to alpine lakes wilderness . We sadly got into a sticky situation on the southeast ridge of Venus lake and had to leave both packs after being extracted by air . ( 47.54928, -121.17309) the location of the packs . Chasing an experienced climber / hiker to assist me and recover the packs as soon as they can while also enjoying a nice hike out to spade . A carton of whatever you drink or reward will be awarded of course ! PM me for details
  17. Thanks to Jenny Abegg and Sarah Hart for the amazing beta sheet! Thanks to Mark Westman for great beta! Thanks to Tim Banfield for the amazing aerial shots of the Howser towers. It was a pleasure to get to climb such an incredible route, with great company (Dane, Allie who we met on route and my great partner Jeff). I'm thankful for the wonderful weather, and an understanding team at work.
  18. Last week
  19. Damn bolt eatin vermin and crack fillin' super dinosaur veggies at it again.......Good on ya for trying I'm in a sort of "restoration" mode of late, and this one's definitely on the list. It's a great climb in a cool setting M. Hanna
  20. Trip: North Howser Tower - All Along the Watchtower Trip Date: 08/06/2019 Trip Report: Climb Date: August 4-6, 2019. Summit August 6, 2019 Climbers: Jeff and Priti Wright Climb: All Along the Watchtower (Grade VI, 3000ft, 32 pitches, 5.10/C2- or 5.12) Style: Follower jugged every pitch in the Dihedral with micro traxions and runners. Heavy French/Aid utilized by the leader in the Dihedral. Two packs brought. Leader climbed with light pack, except in the Dihedral (where follower jugged with one pack on, trailing the other). Two bivouacs (one at base of Dihedral and one on the Summit ridge). With so little beta out there on the route, we found the route finding tricky. This post is intended to be a beta sheet to help with route finding. All Pitch numbers are per Jenny Abegg's topo which was very useful (https://jennyabegg.com/climbing/trip-reportsbeta/all-along-the-watchtower-north-howser-tower/). Pitches 2 and 3 were confusing and we split each of these into two pitches. If you stay on route and watch rope drag, you can avoid splitting these up. They are both full-length pitches. Pitch 3 is so wander-y that rope-drag might be unavoidable - recommend splitting this into two pitches. Pitch 16 (5.12 crux roof) in the Dihedral was only pitch where we thought it was mandatory to disobey Jenny and split into two pitches. Topos In general, Jenny's topo was pretty good. Pitches 8-11 on Jenny's topo are the dyke variation that Westman/Haley did (on accident) which ascends directly up from the bivy ledge. Jenny's topo does not show the original route option, which splits off 30m below the bivy ledge. If you wanted to get snow at the bivy ledge and continue on to the original route, you have to rappel or down climb 30m 5.7 to meet back up with the original route. The party behind us did the dyke route and we did the original route. After talking to the party who did the dyke route, it's very safe to say that the dyke is better way to go. The Mountaineer's guidebook (the green book) topo shows both the original route and also the dyke route options, but the High Col topo shows only the original route. The High Col topo is not accurate at all, so be careful. Keep a copy of Jenny's and the Mountaineer's topo on you. Bivy sites: -We didn't see any good bivy sites until atop Pitch 7 (flat, walled, snow in early season). Some descriptions said there was one atop Pitch 3, but it's more of a sitting bivy. -Another good bivy site is out-of-the-way, about 20m left of the base of the Dihedral (flat, walled, no snow). Some descriptions said this was 4-person, but it fit the two of us pretty snug. To get from here back to the base of the dihedral, you have to down-climb 10m (5.7) then ascend 10m (5.7) to the base of the Dihedral. -Some bivy options along the ridge (four of us stayed at one, very snugly, about halfway on the summit ridge above the seventh rifle gully). -A flat, walled bivy spot on the summit (lots of snow throughout the season). When we saw it, it had thick snow/ice on it, so you'd be sleeping on top of snow. Photo Credit above: Tim Banfield Descending down to East Creek from the Pigeon-Howser Col. Left to Right: North, Central, South Howser Towers, Minaret. Priti is just below the Beckey-Chouinard Route From East Creek descend until you can scramble up to the ridge. Stay low on ledges if you want to cross over into the gully ("B" in picture, not recommended, loose scree and hard ice). Recommend staying on the ridge (climber's right side, "A" in picture) as if approaching for Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower. From the base of Beckey-Chouinard, it is easy to scramble down to the snow to traverse high over to the North Howser Bivy Rock. This is a big, obvious boulder just at the next ridgeline. There is a luxurious, sheltered, covered bivy cave here (recommended instead of East Creek if you only have bivy gear and you want to get an early start for the route in a push). Four rappels (two hangers, chains, rap rings) take you to the snow below. The first rappel is heavily cairned and easy to find (even in the dark), requiring a bit of down-scrambling to get to the lip of the ridge. The rappel line is straight down. Each rappel is easy to find and on obvious ledges. You'll want crampons and ice axe for the snow below, on the way to the base of Watchtower. We used a Beal Escaper for the rappels which worked like a charm... we did not bring a pull cord on this trip. Note: rappels shown in picture above are approximate (just use cairns to find the first one, then take the plumb line). The picture is not intended to help you find the rappels. The first rappel. Crossing the moat. Another party of rappelers above. The approach snow after the approach rappels. You're committed now! Looking up North Howser Tower. Approach at the base all the way left to big ledges just before the large, obvious gully. Take ledges all the way left to dihedrals. Pitch 4 (above), 5.10, full 60m: a striking dihedral (protect on the face on the right) which starts as an easy stem/chimney and ends in an overhanging, difficult off width. Photo credit: Dane Steadman Bivy site along ridge. Looking down the ridge from the summit. Photo credit: Dane Steadman "Hand crack on the right side of crest". Party on the summit. Photo credit: Dane Steadman Simul Rappelling over the bergshrund. Photo credit: Dane Steadman Joining up with the Beckey-Chouinard steps. Photo credit: Dane Steadman Gear Notes: Double Rack to #3. Single #4. Triples in finger sizes for dihedral. Offset nuts, brassies. Did not bring offset cams (did not think they were necessary). No aid gear. 1 sleeping bag to share. 1 bivy sac to share. 1 Jetboil. Beal Escaper for rappels. We did not bring a pull cord. Recommend a pull cord to 1:1 haul packs in the Dihedral. Approach Notes: Started from Kain Hut, ended at car.
  21. Cable Car haters

    When I first heard about the Sea to Sky gondola proposal here, I thought it was an April fool's joke. Rumors then were that it would go to the top of the Chief (I'll admit to not following it closely). Last year, our family went up to check it out. I have to say I'm a convert. It's not on the Chief but to the East, so it doesn't affect parking or views at the Chief. More importantly, from the top of the gondola you can access a host of trails, a suspension bridge, a restaurant and shop, a deck with great views, and perhaps some other things that I missed. I used it as part of our approach to Skypilot, which is now a casual day trip. Views for the Insta-selfie-masses. Hikes and/or climbs for a wide range of people. Plenty of space for everyone to spread out. I've come around to think this was a good idea after all. Squamish was getting developed and crowded long before the gondola was installed, so I don't really understand why someone would want to destroy it.
  22. Mountaineering Ropes

    Just saying that most newer routes are put up with 60m ropes. Steve House and Vince Anderson are in a different class than someone who has taken one course and it asking about his first rope. You also have a lot of experience to go with a 50m so can "go back" to it. Trying to give the guy advice so he only needs one rope and not having to worry about if his 50m rope is long enough to get him down on routes that are mainly put up with 60's now days. I'd rather see someone new carry a little bit extra weight than rappel off the ends of their rope or have to simul-climb a bit. With experience comes the ability to go lighter and faster. "Worthless" may have been a bad choice of words though. A 50m isn't worthless, you just need to know when to use it. In this case, based on his question, he doesn't have the experience yet when to use it other than glacier travel. A 60 is simply more versatile for one all-around rope is all I am saying. I would recommend if you are going to get one rope to start with for multitude different climbing styles, it would be one 60m mid 9mm rope. It will do glacier, alpine and cragging. For only glacier, a 50m, 8.5 would be my choice. On my 8.2mm, prusiks suck in trying to get bite but the Sterling Autoblocks work great and grab very well. Microtraxion also grabs the 8.2. Perfect world for me (The diameter listed below is a ballpark.) 40M 8mm glacier rope for two or three man travel on smaller glaciers. It would also work for ski mountaineering or scramble routes where you are not sure if you will need a rope, but want one in your back just in case. Double 60m 8mm ropes for wandering alpine routes or double-rope rappels are mandatory. Use one for larger glacier parties or where crevasses are bigger (Rainier.) 60m 9.5mm for alpine routes where single rope rappels will get you down and for shorter crags. 70m 9.8mm for longer cragging routes This I did not now about diameters being off. Thanks. I also started when a 50 was all I could buy. Then 60's, now 70's and even 80's. When is the madness going to stop? Who the heck wants to carry an 80 meter rope?
  23. There is a thread on Facebook ClimbPDX group about the top out of SE corner and putting in a bolt anchor. But don't all requests go through WCC to WA State Parks? https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClimbPDX/permalink/709746279476533/ https://www.oregonclimbers.org/
  24. Looks like a scab is afoot
  25. Mountaineering Ropes

    This reminds me of the guy who wrote that Petzl Aztars can only climb WI 3, when my partners and I were climbing WI-5 with completely straight shafted tools 25 years ago. Similarly, I have to disagree with the notion that 50 meter ropes are worthless in the alpine. When I started climbing 50 meter ropes were all you could buy. When 60 meter ropes came out, I jumped on board. 60 meters is still my go to length for cragging. For alpine climbing I went back to 50 meter ropes and I know a number of very strong, experienced guides and climbers who have done the same. Steve House and Vince Anderson climbed AND DESCENDED the Rupal Face with one 50 meter half rope and one 55 meter, 5.5mm tag line. A 50 meter 8-9 mm rope will be a very versatile rope for glaciers as well as for alpine climbing, ice climbing, alpine rock climbing when used with a second rope. Compare ropes using the weight in grams/meter rather than by diameter. Rope manufacturers fudge the advertised diameter by 0.2 mm (that 9.8 mm rope may actually be 10 mm), but cannot fudge the weight. Also, a really thin rope may seem like a great way to save weight, but don't go too thin or it will be harder to ascend and haul on.
  26. Mountaineering Ropes

    I use one an 8.2mm dry rope for all my glacier travel. 60m long. It is 60m as it is part of my double ropes for alpine climbing. It weighs 5.5 lbs. I could chop it to 40 meters and save 2 pounds, but then I would need to buy another rope for my doubles. I don't mind the 60 as that lets me put 3-4 people on the rope with some room on the ends. When I go with just one person, each of us has enough coils to perform a rescue. Remember that for a two-man team, each person needs coils that are just longer than the span between them to be able to drop the other end down. You will see a lot of two-man, and three-man teams tied into the ends of a short rope but that gives them nothing extra for rescue. 50m would be long enough for a 2-3 man as well. 50m is almost worthless rock climbing or in the alpine though as most routes are 60. Your 50m rope would be dedicated only to glacier, while a 60 can do both. Also, if you get into where you cross glaciers then onto rock, a thin rope can be folded over and then used as a double for the rock climb if the pitches are short or you are simulclimbing.
  27. why did you go around via sharkfin instead of heading up to the base of the west ridge of forbidden and then drop down? Been a long time since i was there but that was the way back then. maybe things have changed since? It was one or two long raps from west ridge saddle to snow field. maybe that snow is gone.
  28. It was a truck not a van. They said they were investigating, but not "as a crime". Just investigating. It was "Jesse James" (Internet pseudonym). He lived in his truck. He either fell asleep with a candle or a joint burning, set his mattress on fire inside his truck, and burned himself to death. That's the simplest explanation. Why isn't the case closed? He had deliberately destroyed all his ID. No one really knows what his real name was. There are no dental records on file. Skipping out on a debt or criminal charges elsewhere, who knows? But until they find out who he really was in his previous life, they can't prove that the body was him, just a "John Doe". So the case stays open. Not because "the real killer is still on the loose", OJ Rogoz.
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