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My guess is downclimbing from the WR Terror col in early July might be the ticket.

I could be convinced to go in there and check it out. It has been long enough since I approached the north side of the Southern Pickets, obviously!

Hi, I read an article that talked about the Firey's et al climbing the north buttress of The Rake in the Picket Range, but I can't find any more info about it other than red Fred saying that most of the rock climbing is solid class 4 and easy class 5. This is suitably vague to pique my interest but also not make me too excited to go there and give it a shot. Has anyone done it / know more about it / want to tell me to shut up and just go do it? I'm not looking for play by play beta, just basic info on the difficulty so I don't go out and epic or get skunked. Also interested in info on other routes up the Rake besides the east ridge... Thanks! Also, I don't know where the names come from but I personally find The Blob to be a bit disrespectful of a decent looking mountain. Maybe the moniker "blob" could be applied to something in Colorado?... Iowa?

Hey now! I have a white pack. And yeah it doesn’t make me any less of a slow lard ass. But man the pack looks good. It’s like wearing a Jordon jersey when shooting hoops at school across the street.

Such a bad ass trip! Great work. I'm super impressed by how fast you guys climbed the West Arete. It seems there are several ways to go on the lower and upper ridge - some of the terrain in your photos looks a lot different than what we did. The crux traverse of the West Arete is pretty sweet but I understand how you accidentally bypassed it. It is not an obvious entrance to that section. EMS looks so, SO good. I'm really stoked you guys got it done. I'm definitely going back for it.

Awesome trip. Loved the part about running vests. I feel the same way about white backpacks... but hey, my white backpack makes me feel ELITE.

Who really cares about this shit anymore? Still, if you eat all the dessert--and skip your dinner--you didn't really finish your meal.

What rope did you use for hauling your pack?

Not too bad now that we started using the talus fields. We were originally using the slide alder and open forest in early season but shockingly that got real overgrown. Its a little brushy getting across the braided creek, but its short and there is currently a hacked/stomped in tunnel through the worst of it. There is also a short shwack at the top of the second talus field to get to the base of the wall. All in all its really not bad at all right now.

Go Lucas!

Howdy friends, I'm moving to Vancouver from Colorado for grad school this year and I need a crew! I am very skilled in ski mountaineering and just okay at ice, mixed, and trad. Usually I prefer to do those in order to get to a better ski line rather than from intrinsic motivation. I know it's early to be thinking about skiing but if you're also planning next year's routes I want to be your friend! I'll ski just about anything but I'm a bit of a snow snob (I like good snow on steep lines). I am very happy to discuss experience and expectations. My instagram is @declanknies if you wanna see what I've done or message me there. DM me if you're stoked to get out! Would love to make some friends to be ready for the first snowfalls... I tried to attach some pictures from the year not sure if they'll show up!

That is pretty funny. Also I’ll need your credit card number, expiration, and number on the back.

Super cool. What's the bushwack situation to the base...? It feels like, from your description, that it's not that bad...?

That’s some serious effort! Look forward to checking it out.

Thanks for sharing this one. I’ve been curious about it for years!

Cool!

you give it all you got, weighing in at 19 stone:

New never used or opened BD Eldorado tent and new vestibule. Bought for a trip that never materialized and now just being stored. $750

EMS looks awesome! Nice work!

Way to get after it Lucas! Thanks for the report!

There are few Grizzlies out there and you're much more likely to see a Black Bear with brown fur. I've seen a bunch. Thanks for the trip report, pretty active five days!

rad!

Well done getting all that done solo, and safely, in a few days!