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That is totally schwack-afied badassery.

@traildirt Any chance you'd do a brief 'whats in my pack' list for this? Also wondering what y'all did for food, you must have been stoked to not eat a freeze dried meal at the end!

Nice work. I had a similar experience on the Forbidden Glacier - very marginal in approach shoes. If I did this route again, I'd go early season and/or wear boots.

Thank you! I worked hard on this one.

Awesome work! Been curious about rock in the marble creek drainage for a while and glad to see some climbing out there!

Awesome job on the climb and the write-up, that was a treat to read.

Whoa. How many caches of food did you have???

Great TR Nick! I especially liked the asides about the first ascensionists. I think you captured the yin and yang of that route perfectly. What a line though....

Thanks for JasonG for the great overview photo! This route has been on my list for a while. The quality is so-so, and it's kind of dangerous with all the loose rock, but it sure was a grand adventure. https://spokalpine.com/2025/07/30/eldorado-peak-west-arete-iv-5-8/

Thanks man. Hopefully not too understated! Every day was hard af! Full effort, plus some luck… glad you enjoyed the tale 🤘🏽

Looking for people to climb / hike with in the cascades. My schedule is clear for the next 2 weeks! I’m doing Eldorado and Sahale. If anyone needs another Rainer man also let me know!

Amazing! Great work

7 days worth from Artist Point, and another 7 from hwy 20! was pretty heavy but we should have carried more

Wow! It has taken me 40 years to get half of that done! Thanks for the TR.

Hey! Thanks for the super helpful report. It appears the images you originally attached aren't accessible anymore any chance you still have them onhand and can re-upload them??

Dan Mcnerthney and I climbed the Stoddard buttress exactly 10 years ago in mid July and here is my few cents. 1. The approach from the Crescent creek basin to the base of Stoddard buttress IS long. It took us 9! hours which included climbing the snow/ice couloir plus dry rock to the col, 2 rappels into a moat, ice climbing out of the moat (steel crampons and boots were highly appreciated here), followed by traversing Mustard glacier on cl. 4 - low cl. 5 ledges and more ice climbing to get on to the buttress. 2. The climb itself to the true summit of Terror IS much longer and more complex than most descriptions make it sound. Simul climbing was feasible on the bottom half of the route but climbing becomes harder higher up.

Did you read the TR? Resupply at hwy 20.

@Phil K and Rod above the snow arete 2006 (check out the glacial differences from the photos above): Looking down from near the top onto the glacier: Strong work @JonParker!!

Holy shit! Amazing. You carried 17days worth of food?

Holy cow!!!

This is rad, I dig the understated and humble approach to the write up. Inspiring.

Amazing!

Wow, sounds like you had time for a second lap that day!

Trip: Johannesburg mountain - Northeast buttress ‘51 rib Trip Date: 07/26/2025 Trip Report: I drove to the parking lot Friday night, threw my sleeping bag in the back of the truck, and fell asleep staring at Johannesburg. About an hour after sunrise I locked the truck and started walking down the road with just a hipbelt loaded with microspikes, ul rain jacket, ice axe, garmin, work gloves, 6 gu’s, and 500 ml of water. Getting to the snow was quite straight forward. I stayed on talus, just climbers left of the moraine for as long as I could, and then traversed straight across the moraine to where I could step onto the initial slabs to gain the rib. Figuring out these initial first pitches before the brush was slightly tricky, perhaps requiring the most thoughtful climbing of the whole route. Just above the slabs was a large patch of snow. I drank some water and filled up here and then started tree climbing. I was elated to not have a pack on for this section. The work gloves and trailspikes also made life much easier through this part of the route. Once I made it to the steep heather section I was able to mostly stay on the ridge crest with semi decent rock. I did not end up joining the 1957 route near the top like I’ve read in some trip reports, and instead continued up the 51 rib. This section contained the highest quality rock and climbing of the entire route. The crux of this section was probably a bomber near vertical handcrack(5.6) that lasted a couple body lengths. Suddenly, I was on snow. The glacier and snow conditions were nearly perfect, firm but not icy. I transitioned to rock close to the top of the glacier where it became too steep for 1 axe and microspikes. Moments later I was on the summit, 3h 40m from the car. I snapped some photos, and then started down the east ridge. The cairns were quite nice to have for encouragement. Less than an hour later I was at the C-J col. The heather up to Mixup was quite unstable, frustrating, and exhausting, but it was over soon enough. Meeting up to the Ptarmigan “trail” was mostly straight forward. I feel I could have found a slightly better way, but what I did worked just fine. Just above Cascade Pass, I emptied the rocks from my shoes, downed the rest of my water and a GU, and battened down the hatches before running down to the lot. The parade of hikers were true obstacles, but it was pretty fun blasting past them. Made it to the lot 6h 49m after leaving the truck. A very good day. Gear Notes: Work gloves, microspikes, axe Approach Notes: Short and sweet

PM’d