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#716874 - 08/26/07 02:35 PM [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/23/20
off_the_hook Offline
member

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 9309
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hrs RT

Date: 8/23/2007

Trip Report:
I speed climbed Eldorado Peak in 4:58 roundtrip. I started at 8:03 am, summited at 11:06 am, and was back at the car just after 1 pm (3:03 up, 20 minute summit break, 1:35 down). This was my fourth time climbing the east ridge route in the past five years so I knew the tricks of doing the approach fast (unlike Lemah Mountain the following day).

Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Split / Real Time
Eldorado Parking Lot (2,160 ft) : 0 / 0 / 08:03
First Talus Field (4,000 ft) : 39.53.45 / 39.53.45 / 08:43
Cross Stream [Small Waterfalls] (5,000 ft) : 1:10.54 / 31.00.91 / 09:14
Ridge Pass (6,150 ft) : 1:33.56 / 23.02.03 / 09:37
Eldorado Glacier (6,500 ft) : 1:59.28 / 25.31.69 / 10:02
Base of East Ridge (7,800 ft) : 2:30.52 / 31.24.78 / 10:34
Arrive Summit (8,868 ft) : 3:02.57 / 32.04.74 / 11:06
Depart Summit (8,868 ft) : 3:23.16 / 20.18.66 / 11:26
Base of East Ridge (7,800 ft) : 3:40.34 / 17.18.32 / 11:43
Eldorado Glacier (6,500 ft) : 4:02.34 / 22.00.23 / 12:05
First Talus Field (4,000 ft) : 4:37.54 / 35.19.56 / 12:40
Eldorado Parking Lot (2,160 ft) : 4:58.43 / 20.49.53 / 13:01

I was a bit too pumped for this climb and 10 minutes into it my head was spinning and I had to take a break against a tree. I toned it down after this and once I got to the boulder fields I found my rhythm and felt great thereafter. Lesson learned - don't start out too aggressively!

I was shooting for around 6 hours, but a very fast descent of the Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers opened up the possibility of a sub 5 hour roundtrip. I knew it would be very close, so I picked it up down the boulder fields and the final section in the woods.



Some marine clouds made for nice views.








Global warming has manifested itself on Eldorado as the famous knife-edged snow arÍte has melted into an easy plateau. I remember having to descend slightly from the snow ridge to the summit rocks and now those rocks are the high point.






Pickets from Eldorado














Gear Notes:
Axe, crampons. This was my first climb in La Sportiva's Exum Ridge trail runners and they had excellent traction on the boulder fields and steep trail.

Approach Notes:
In good shape.
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#716885 - 08/26/07 03:53 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/23/20 [Re: off_the_hook]
Jens Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/09/01
Posts: 1901
TRs: 8 Photos: 23
Loc: San Diego, CA
Nice!

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#716886 - 08/26/07 03:59 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/23/20 [Re: Jens]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 3580
TRs: 19 Photos: 49
The trail is pretty steep coming up through the forest, were you able to run that section or did you speed walk it?
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#716888 - 08/26/07 04:23 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: DPS]
off_the_hook Offline
member

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 9309
Loc: San Carlos, CA
I walked it coming up. My initial walking pace was even too fast and I had to slow down a little after I started to feel dizzy.
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http://pantilat.wordpress.com/

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#716896 - 08/26/07 05:07 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: off_the_hook]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
you are off the hook yo! raise the roof.

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#716897 - 08/26/07 05:07 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: off_the_hook]
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 7395
TRs: 39 Photos: 811
Loc: Stony Brook, NY
damn that's quick!

I think it should be ok to not count time hanging out on the summit, so you're able to enjoy being up there.

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#716906 - 08/26/07 05:21 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: off_the_hook]
ZimZam Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1836
TRs: 1 Photos: 61
Loc: The Rez
_________________________
I hear the train a comin'.

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#716909 - 08/26/07 05:33 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: ZimZam]
maxhasson Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/26/06
Posts: 63
TRs: 2 Photos: 176
Loc: peshastin
bad ass

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#716910 - 08/26/07 05:38 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: off_the_hook]
pup_on_the_mountain Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/15/04
Posts: 509
TRs: 5 Photos: 29
Loc: Land of Cows
_________________________
Respek my Athoritaay!

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#716931 - 08/26/07 07:47 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: pup_on_the_mountain]
tvashtarkatena Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 09/25/06
Posts: 19139
TRs: 99 Photos: 16
Loc: ked Down
What, no 10 essentials?

Well done.
_________________________
All things to all people, all the time.

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#717279 - 08/27/07 03:10 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/23/20 [Re: off_the_hook]
To_The_Top Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1604
TRs: 1 Photos: 40
Loc: Seattle

Nice, what's next? <besides Lemah>
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Say no to slide alder

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#717313 - 08/27/07 03:58 PM Re: [TR] Eldorado Speed Climb - Sub 5 hours RT 8/2 [Re: tvashtarkatena]
JayB Offline
sprayer

Registered: 09/18/01
Posts: 8454
TRs: 8 Photos: 272
Loc: Capitol Hill
The combination of the speeds and the quality of the photos is what continually amazes me.
_________________________
-Jay

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