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Recommend Me Some Climbs I Can Do Solo


RTHo

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Hey guys I'm new to climbing and am looking to take my second trip soon. I just climbed Shasta solo via Avalanche Gulch last weekend. I do not have a ton of experience so I don't want to take a too technical route and since I'm going solo that obviously leaves out any glacier routes.

 

I'm going solo since I don't have anyone to go with. I'm trying to find a partner but in the meantime I'm not going to let it prevent me from going. I'm going to stick to the weekends since that not only agrees with my schedule but will allow for the highest chance of other climbers being present in case something happens.

 

I'm down in San Jose so I was thinking Lassen Peak would be my next trip, though there isn't a whole lot of info on the route and climbing conditions like there is on Shasta.

 

I was thinking of also branching up north to Oregon and trying one of the Sisters.

 

I have all my own gear and am in pretty good shape. I summited Shasta from Lake Helen in just under four hours and I felt extremely comfortable and confident while climbing, to give some perspective. I'm signed up for a mountaineering course later this month to gain more experience as well.

 

Thanks

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Can't comment on Oregon volcanoes. If you climbed Avalanche Gully the south side of Adams should be fine.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was actually looking at Adams earlier today. I have a buddy in Portland that I can stay with and I will be visiting him a bit too so it should make the travel there easier. I was reading that July seems to be the best time for Adams, particularity with the glissading. I've heard how awesome glissading can be on Adams before so I'd like to do that in July if that's the ideal time. Would you suggest I wait until July for Adams?

 

Looking from Portland, Helens is pretty close and seems like a straight forward day climb.

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Lassen is a considerably smaller hill than Shasta.

 

When I was working in southern Oregon I had similar problems findind good objectives.

 

Roughly South to North:

 

I wouldn't discount the Sierra. There are a ton of nice peaks that you can contrive a reasonable outing???

 

Thielsen is a walk-up / scramble. Its kind of just a hike. Go to the Sierra.

 

The Sisters are closer to you than anything else snowy except Shasta and provide some very reasonable somewhat snowy walk-up routes. S Sister has a very basic walk-up/ski down kind of thing. You can combine Broken Top same day. Its a reasonable day. Middle Sister is also a walk-up. You could do S Sister, Broken Top, and Middle Sister as a reasonable weekend trip. North Sister isn't a walk-up especially the summit so I would refrain from that one, although it's a nice climb with a partner.

 

Jefferson via it's S side is also moderate but has a long approach so your mileage may vary.

 

Hood as mentioned is a One-Trick Pony via the South Side, however it isn't the most insignificant thing and is a reasonable undertaking, requiring you know how to self-belay with 1-2 axes and self arrest, as the downclimb from the summit can be icy and error prone. Still, it was my first ever solo, and many people solo it every year. There are other routes on Hood that can also be soloed (like Cooper Spur) however I would do the S Side first to familiarize yourself with the standard descent.

 

S Side of Adams is a very commonly climbed and skied solo. There is another route on Adams, the NE? ridge? which is a non-glaciated walk-up, and is commonly used as the descent for the Adams Glacier. I have only gone down it, but it seemed very moderate.

 

St Helens is also a walk up, commonly climbed and skied.

 

Almost all these volcano routes are best descended with skis, so if you have good ski skills and there are people around (it's bad form to sprain your knee or ankle on the big hill with no one around) then the ski down can be moderate if the corn sets up reasonably well.

 

Further North you venture into more and more glaciation which for the solo traveler who is new to the mountains, suggest you do all the easy climbs first before you brave crevasse fields solo...

 

 

HTH!

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Gonna say +1 to both the South Side of Hood and Adams.... But my personal preference is to not Glissade (I have hip issues that prevent me). I did Lassen a few years back and I was a great solo trip..... It's just a trail to the top. Look at the Sisters, Broken Top, and St. Helens as well.

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Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

I actually have two climbs planned with a veterans group at the end of July. Hood on the 23rd and Shasta on the 27th. I think I'll leave Hood for then and plan to climb something else solo, but at the same time I wouldn't mind doing it twice.

 

the south side of hood's a very reasonable solo

 

I was thinking of doing Hood, but when on Shasta I talked to others and quite a few said the top was a bit technical and wouldn't advise I go solo. They hadn't climbed it this year though, have the conditions changed through the Gates where it's doable solo?

 

Lassen is a considerably smaller hill than Shasta.

 

When I was working in southern Oregon I had similar problems findind good objectives.

 

Roughly South to North:

 

I wouldn't discount the Sierra. There are a ton of nice peaks that you can contrive a reasonable outing???

 

Thielsen is a walk-up / scramble. Its kind of just a hike. Go to the Sierra.

 

The Sisters are closer to you than anything else snowy except Shasta and provide some very reasonable somewhat snowy walk-up routes. S Sister has a very basic walk-up/ski down kind of thing. You can combine Broken Top same day. Its a reasonable day. Middle Sister is also a walk-up. You could do S Sister, Broken Top, and Middle Sister as a reasonable weekend trip. North Sister isn't a walk-up especially the summit so I would refrain from that one, although it's a nice climb with a partner.

 

Jefferson via it's S side is also moderate but has a long approach so your mileage may vary.

 

Hood as mentioned is a One-Trick Pony via the South Side, however it isn't the most insignificant thing and is a reasonable undertaking, requiring you know how to self-belay with 1-2 axes and self arrest, as the downclimb from the summit can be icy and error prone. Still, it was my first ever solo, and many people solo it every year. There are other routes on Hood that can also be soloed (like Cooper Spur) however I would do the S Side first to familiarize yourself with the standard descent.

 

S Side of Adams is a very commonly climbed and skied solo. There is another route on Adams, the NE? ridge? which is a non-glaciated walk-up, and is commonly used as the descent for the Adams Glacier. I have only gone down it, but it seemed very moderate.

 

St Helens is also a walk up, commonly climbed and skied.

 

Almost all these volcano routes are best descended with skis, so if you have good ski skills and there are people around (it's bad form to sprain your knee or ankle on the big hill with no one around) then the ski down can be moderate if the corn sets up reasonably well.

 

Further North you venture into more and more glaciation which for the solo traveler who is new to the mountains, suggest you do all the easy climbs first before you brave crevasse fields solo...

 

 

HTH!

 

My goal is to kinda hit all the Cascades, so even though Lassen doesn't compare to Shasta, I'd like to check it off. With it being the closest of all to me it's pretty tempting. I'm just not sure on the climbing conditions. I enjoy general hiking, but for climbing I want to do it when the snow is good and crampons are needed. Don't really have an interest in hiking any of these with little to no snow.

 

I have not looked into he Sierras since my eyes had been set on the Cascades. I'll have to dig around and check out some peaks there.

 

I was looking at Helens and it seems it's pretty late in the season for ideal climbing conditions. I have not skied since I was younger and want to have a solid foundation of climbing before I branch into that, but it is an interest.

 

Gonna say +1 to both the South Side of Hood and Adams.... But my personal preference is to not Glissade (I have hip issues that prevent me). I did Lassen a few years back and I was a great solo trip..... It's just a trail to the top. Look at the Sisters, Broken Top, and St. Helens as well.

 

I loved glissading and after hearing how great it can be on Adams I'm looking forward to it. Maybe I can plan for Adams 4th of July weekend.

 

Does Lassen have actual climbing? You mentioned it's a trail, would I even need crampons and an ice axe? I'd rather wait to do earlier next year if it's too late now.

 

Good suggestions above. Bump on Hood south side and Adams.

 

If you got the money, buy an AT ski setup so you can skin up the boring parts and don't have to walk back down!

 

I was envious of those flying past me on the way down of Shasta haha. One day.

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Matterhorn Peak scramble up route (SE face I think?) approach from Twin Lakes.

 

Mt. Thompson in the Trinity Alps is also a fun scramble up in CA w/ no people but a long approach hike (10+ miles), I did it in April with skis.

 

Castle Peak in Donner Pass during winter/spring would be good too, just check avy forecast. Also, same area, Mt. Rose (NE of Tahoe) is a fun early winter ascent with a little snow. Sierra is plenty serious, closer to home, and offers better access to high elevation peaks with snow travel and more solid rock scrambling.

 

All 3 of the sisters are pretty easy climbs, Middle is my favorite (less crowds, still asthetic and varied), North is sketchy 4th class (I would save it for a spring-time when you are more comfy on steep snow and mellow ice), South is an easy trail up scree (crowded and unpleasant IMHO).

 

Hope that helps.

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A buddy did Lassen last Wednesday (June 8, 2016) and it looked like pretty good skiing. I saw pics and there was plenty of snow. the park is pretty cool, too - has geothermal features and is way out the middle of nowhere. Looked like a reasonable solo.

 

Plus what all these other guys said.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys just a little update. I summited Mt. Adams yesterday. Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad and I was in cloud coverage almost the entire climb. I got to enjoy some nice views and an awesome sunset at the lunch counter on Saturday night, but Sunday was completely covered.

 

ImY0wvO.jpg

 

I'm climbing Mt. Hood this Saturday and then Mt. Shasta next weekend. Both climbs are being done through a veterans groups.

Edited by RTHo
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  • 2 years later...

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