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RTHo

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Everything posted by RTHo

  1. Hey guys I'm new to climbing and am looking to take my second trip soon. I just climbed Shasta solo via Avalanche Gulch last weekend. I do not have a ton of experience so I don't want to take a too technical route and since I'm going solo that obviously leaves out any glacier routes. I'm going solo since I don't have anyone to go with. I'm trying to find a partner but in the meantime I'm not going to let it prevent me from going. I'm going to stick to the weekends since that not only agrees with my schedule but will allow for the highest chance of other climbers being present in case something happens. I'm down in San Jose so I was thinking Lassen Peak would be my next trip, though there isn't a whole lot of info on the route and climbing conditions like there is on Shasta. I was thinking of also branching up north to Oregon and trying one of the Sisters. I have all my own gear and am in pretty good shape. I summited Shasta from Lake Helen in just under four hours and I felt extremely comfortable and confident while climbing, to give some perspective. I'm signed up for a mountaineering course later this month to gain more experience as well. Thanks
  2. Best offer: Parkas, packs, clothes

    It's been 2 1/2 years...
  3. Gloves are sold, axe is still available.
  4. Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody (Large) in Katalox color. Brand new with tags- $180 shipped. I originally bought this and shortly after found a different color I liked better. Things came up and I forgot to return it in time. Black Diamond Guide Gloves (XL) in natural color. Virtually brand new- $120 shipped. I bought these and tried them on at the house and they felt fine. Went out to do some crevasse rescue training and to test them out. Discovered out there they were slightly too big and I took them off and wore a different pair of gloves. They do not have tags but zero wear. Bought the right size and love these gloves. Recently wore them to the summit of Logan. Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe Hammer (50cm). Shaft has wear and tear, pick and spike are solid- $100 shipped. This axe was always slightly too short to be perfect for me and I was recently gifted a different, longer axe so I figured it's time to let it go. This is the older style Venom and I love everything about it other than the length for me. Pictures of all three items here, including close ups of the wear, pick, and spike on the Venom. https://imgur.com/a/fdhspdW
  5. Arcteryx jacket sold, BD gloves and axe still available
  6. Sweaty/Wet Feet

    My feet run hot and after a long summit day they will be wet enough to become pruned and down climbing like that is killer. I just summited Rainier last weekend and by the time we got back to Muir my feet were destroyed. I took my boots and socks off for a bit to let them dry and changed socks and that made the hike down from Muir much easier but obviously I can't do that mid climb. So what's the solution? Gold Bond foot powder? I've tried different socks and it's the same issue. I'm using Darn Tough Mountaineering socks now and they are by far the best but again, after a long climb they still cause my feet to sweat.
  7. Sweaty/Wet Feet

    I honestly don't think that would make a big difference. My feet sweat (though not terribly) on a day to day basis. I think a 12 hour summit day will result in my feet wet regardless if I have a warm boot or not, but what do I know lol I spent several years in the infantry and even lived with a Special Forces team for several months in Afghanistan. Never once heard of this. I'll Google it and check it out, thanks.
  8. Sweaty/Wet Feet

    I changed into my approach shoes when we got to Muir, but my feet were not wet at that point. I only wear one pair of socks so not sure the oven bag idea would work. That also seems counterintuitive, no? Seems like that would warm my feet more. My boots are La Sportiva Nepal Cubes. I'm a big fan of them. I'll try the Gold Bond next time and see if that helps. Don't think I'll be wearing my boots for the rest of the year though, just trying to get ideas for next season. Thanks. La Sportiva Nepal Cubes. I suppose I could bring an extra pair and change them on the summit or wherever we stop for a lengthy break. It was incredibly windy on the summit on Sunday so we didn't stay long but at the top of the cleaver we stopped for some food and it was calm enough that I could have done that and let them air out for a little bit. lmao, must have missed this model when I picked up my Cubes
  9. Any interest in doing Baker again or any other mountaineering? I just got into mountaineering and am trying to do another climb before the summer is over. I'm 26 from California and soloed Mt. Shasta for my first climb Memorial Day weekend and then climbed Mt. Adams two weekends ago, Mt. Hood last weekend and am about to do Shasta again this weekend.
  10. Remember?

    There are rules
  11. Early August Hood routes

    I just climbed Hood on Saturday via Old Chute. It was my first time on the mountain so I'm not familiar with other routes. We roped up after the Devil's Kitchen and put in a fixed line for the last ~100 feet just before the knife ridge as it was near vertical. I'd bring protection. The knife ridge wasn't bad, mix of snow and rock.
  12. Hood Conditions? (solo)

    Thanks for the input. I'll definitely head up there around March-April, those conditions you described sound awesome. Some of the shots I've seen of climbers going through the Pearly Gates are amazing and I assume the shots I'm referring to are earlier in the year.
  13. Hood Conditions? (solo)

    Agreed. It was my first time climbing it. I definitely want to return next year earlier in the season, is May the prime month?
  14. Hood Conditions? (solo)

    I just climbed it with a group yesterday and conditions weren't great. Snow is melting fast and evidence of rock fall was very evident. There weren't any crevasses. You won't be able to take the hogsback through the PG though. You'll have to take the old chute. It's extremely steep towards the top. The knife ridge from here to the summit is a mix of snow and rock but it wasn't too bad. We left at 1:30am.
  15. Mt Hood

    I just climbed it yesterday (July 23) and conditions are definitely not the greatest. Would like to climb it again next year earlier in the season.
  16. Hey guys just a little update. I summited Mt. Adams yesterday. Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad and I was in cloud coverage almost the entire climb. I got to enjoy some nice views and an awesome sunset at the lunch counter on Saturday night, but Sunday was completely covered. I'm climbing Mt. Hood this Saturday and then Mt. Shasta next weekend. Both climbs are being done through a veterans groups.
  17. Thanks for the replies everyone. I actually have two climbs planned with a veterans group at the end of July. Hood on the 23rd and Shasta on the 27th. I think I'll leave Hood for then and plan to climb something else solo, but at the same time I wouldn't mind doing it twice. I was thinking of doing Hood, but when on Shasta I talked to others and quite a few said the top was a bit technical and wouldn't advise I go solo. They hadn't climbed it this year though, have the conditions changed through the Gates where it's doable solo? My goal is to kinda hit all the Cascades, so even though Lassen doesn't compare to Shasta, I'd like to check it off. With it being the closest of all to me it's pretty tempting. I'm just not sure on the climbing conditions. I enjoy general hiking, but for climbing I want to do it when the snow is good and crampons are needed. Don't really have an interest in hiking any of these with little to no snow. I have not looked into he Sierras since my eyes had been set on the Cascades. I'll have to dig around and check out some peaks there. I was looking at Helens and it seems it's pretty late in the season for ideal climbing conditions. I have not skied since I was younger and want to have a solid foundation of climbing before I branch into that, but it is an interest. I loved glissading and after hearing how great it can be on Adams I'm looking forward to it. Maybe I can plan for Adams 4th of July weekend. Does Lassen have actual climbing? You mentioned it's a trail, would I even need crampons and an ice axe? I'd rather wait to do earlier next year if it's too late now. I was envious of those flying past me on the way down of Shasta haha. One day.
  18. Thanks for the reply. I was actually looking at Adams earlier today. I have a buddy in Portland that I can stay with and I will be visiting him a bit too so it should make the travel there easier. I was reading that July seems to be the best time for Adams, particularity with the glissading. I've heard how awesome glissading can be on Adams before so I'd like to do that in July if that's the ideal time. Would you suggest I wait until July for Adams? Looking from Portland, Helens is pretty close and seems like a straight forward day climb.
  19. Hey everyone, I am very interested in getting into mountaineering and it’s all I’ve been thinking about as of late. I’ve done a decent amount of research and try to answer my own questions but sometimes you need the advice of the experienced. I have experience in extreme cold, I was stationed in upstate New York for several years. We did non-technical climbing of Mt. Marcy and other Appalachian peaks but nothing serious. I was in a mountain/light infantry unit and anywhere we moved was with tremendous weight on our back so I am no stranger to humping large packs. I have general backpacking experience and have gotten into that more lately. I plan to do the High Sierra Trail with a summit of Mt. Whitney later this year (before the winter, non-technical). I am currently in very good physical condition, though I have already begun altering my workout routine to prepare myself for climbing. Before asking the questions, I know I need to answer what/where I plan to climb as everything is tailored to specifics. To begin, I plan to climb in the PNW with an eventual goal being Rainier. I also have strong ambitions and desires to climb outside the lower 48, such as Aconcagua and Denali. Obviously this is getting ahead of myself and by no means am I not going to take it step by step or not focus on what’s in front of me, I’m just giving you guys my frame of mind. Basically I plan to be in this for the long run. Anyway, on to my questions. What course should I take? I plan on taking an intro to mountaineering course preferably with a summit attempt. I think it would be the best way to put the skills learned to the test. I live in the Bay Area in California so primarily I am looking at courses on Mt. Shasta, but I’m not opposed to driving up to Oregon. From what I’ve seen for courses that offer a summit attempt, most seem to be about three days long and that would be perfect for me. I’ve also seen they range in price from 500-700. Considering I need to buy all of my mountaineering gear as well, I’d like to remain on the lower side of the budget but I do not want to sacrifice quality lessons. I definitely plan to take longer, more in depth courses later on too but this is just to get my feet wet. I was looking at International Alpine Guides and their Shasta course: http://www.internationalalpineguides.com/mount-shasta-summit However, I saw some videos of people climbing Shasta last summer without any climbing gear as there was very little snow. They only offer that specific course in the summer so I would assume there must be snow but I’m a bit confused. Before I make any final decision I plan on calling these places and speaking with them, I just hope to get more insight from experienced people like yourself. Are there any specific courses you guys would recommend? Second question(s) regarding my top clothing/layering. I have only purchased one piece of clothing thus far, that being my base layer. I went with the Stoic Alpine Merino 150 Bliss shirt. As for the rest of my layers, this is what I was looking at picking up. 1. Base layer- Stoic Alpine Merino 150 2. Light Insulation- Patagonia R1 Hoody 3. Softshell- OR Ferrosi Hoody 4. Hardhsell- Patagonia M10 or Arc'teryx Alpha SL. For something on the cheaper side I was also looking at the OR Helium II Would I be fine in the PNW with the Helium II or should I just go with something higher in quality and versatility like the M10 or Alpha SL? As for the down jacket/parka, I’m not sure yet. I get hot quite easily and through research I’ve read that people tend to climb with less in the PNW, especially during the summer months. I was looking at the Mountain Hardware Nilas Jacket, though it's quite pricy and I was hoping I could find something on the cheaper side initially. If that would be too heavy/overkill for the PNW, I was also looking at a lighter jacket, something like the Eddie Bauer MicroTherm StormDown Hooded Jacket. If the Eddie Bauer jacket wouldn't cut it, I was also looking at these two jackets, the Arc'teryx Thorium AR Hooded Down Jacket and the Patagonia Ultralight Down Hoody. Those two seem to be a step up from the Eddie Bauer, but maybe only a slight step down from the MH Nilas. I’m not sure. What do you guys think? Also, what do you think of my planned clothing purchases? Would you change anything or should that be sufficient for me to begin my mountaineering career? For the bottom layering I think that’s pretty straight forward and easy, I don’t have any questions regarding that. As for boots, I plan to try on as many as I can to find the best fit, which will probably be a pain in the ass since I’ll have to order them online and then return in store. Not a huge deal, just wish I could go to a store with many different boots in stock to try them on at once. I’m likely going to order the La Sportiva Nepal Cubes as my first try. And my final question. I am planning on picking up a few books soon, both for informative purposes and pleasure reading. In no order Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks Climbing the Seven Summits And either Alaska Climbing by Joseph Puryear or Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide to Mount McKinley's Classic Route by Colby Coombs, not sure on which one regarding Alaskan climbs. Should I pick up any others, drop some of the ones above? I very much appreciate any help you guys offer and thanks for the time you took to read this. I have joined some local meetup groups and hope to find some people I can climb with. Currently my sister is interested in possibly taking the course with me so if she does that would be a great advantage for me to have someone to share these experiences with. It seems finding someone you can go with and learn from is the hardest process in this. Thanks again. Steve
  20. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Clear Creek route is doable now, just bring low gaiters for the scree fest. I meant the snow season. Don't have a desire to scramble up it.
  21. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Hey everyone, very sorry I disappeared for a while. To be perfectly honest, a lot was going on at the time I made this thread and between all of the other research and posting I was doing at other sites, I simply forgot I had made this post here. Poor excuse I know. Since then, a lot has happened. I have all of my own personal gear and attempted Shasta twice with my sister and a buddy. The first time my buddy sprained his ankle pretty bad before we even hit the snow line and we had to turn back. The second time we made it to Lake Helen and practiced as much as we could since none of us had done this before. We were hit with a pretty bad storm which delayed our start time and unfortunately had to turn back after reaching the Red Banks, which was a bummer since the hardest part was behind us. I wanted us to keep pushing but I also had to play it safe and decided to turn us back. Being up there got me hooked though and I am anxiously awaiting the season to start to get back up on Shasta, we plan to return early in the season. My sister and I are also currently planning a trip to Nepal next spring. We plan to do Everest Base Camp trek and then climb Island Peak. I am very excited. If all goes well, I hope to hit several mountains in the Cascades next year. As for the gear, the most notable purchase I made were La Sportiva Nepal Cubes. These things were awesome on Shasta and as comfortable as any regular hiking boot. My feet never felt cold or uncomfortable. I also waited to pick them up from REI when they had a 20% coupon, so that made the purchase a bit easier. It's too bad the storm didn't pass earlier, it was a pretty nice day otherwise.
  22. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Thanks for the reply, Matt. I've never done any expeditions or backpacking in the Adirondacks before. It was all strictly infantry training using Army issued gear, for example using a -30 degree sleeping bag/system that weighed 10 pounds lol. When we did "climb" Marcy and other peaks it was not technical and we were weighed down, usually carrying our combat gear and weapons. The same went for the clothing, it was all Army issued so I don't have experience with the seemingly endless options when it comes to clothing. I think I may have just been over thinking it and I've already picked up a softshell jacket and will pick up the other layers over the next few weeks. Good point on the first climbers using what they had, again I was probably over thinking it. I definitely plan to take it gradual and slow, I just wanted to stress those larger ambitions to explain where my mind is at and that I want to jump into this with both feet. Both of those are far on the horizon and I don't plan to consider them until I have real experience climbing and some serious knowledge through additional classes. Thanks Maurop, appreciate the encouragement.
  23. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    MP.com looks like an awesome place, going to check there daily. Thanks for the tip. Freedome of the Hills is "the Bible" of mountaineering, but it's kind of like a children's Bible. Good pictures and you get the point, but if you want to get serious about it you'll be left wanting more. I guess I just look at my bookcase and FotH is surrounding by other books that cover the same topics in more depth. If you're looking to save money, I'd start with skipping FotH. I'd recommend Michael Layton's Climbing Beyond the Basics as an overview book that isn't too broad to be useful. I took a trad anchors class at J Tree that was great https://www.joshuatreerockclimbing.com/sem4.html. I also have a friend who's an single-pitch rock instructor in Northern California. If you're interested, I'll send you his info. My crevasse rescue class with Rainier Mountaineering was great. My "Mountaineering Class" with RMI was a waste of time and money. All classes are good, but specific well-tailored classes are well worth the money. In Cali, there are some great resources. Sierra Mountain Guides is a fantastic company based out of Bishop. Classes may seem expensive, but the amount you'll learn (especially if you prepare beforehand) is fantastic. Also, you'll be trusting your life to your skills - probably worth the extra few $100 bucks Gotcha thanks. I'll take the advice and pick up something more in depth like your suggestion. It sounds like I may get better training for the money if I take more specific classes than a broad climb, maybe I'll go that route. I'd like to get the basics down and gain the skills required for me to climb some of the easier routes of smaller mountains and then get into some advanced classes to be able to expand my skills for something like Rainier. At least that's what makes sense in my head.
  24. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Thanks for the reply, Pete. Are you saying to not even bother picking up Freedom of the Hills altogether? Of those type of courses you are suggesting, do you have any specific recommendations? I'm not opposed to taking different courses than a general intro with summit bid, I just thought that would be the most resourceful of my time and money. My problem is finding the right course to take, though I don't know if I'm over thinking it and pretty much any course I take will be good to go. I will definitely keep that puffy tip in mind, thanks. And I would definitely love to climb in Yosemite and Tahoe some day, I will absolutely take you up on that offer after I get some experience, thanks. Thanks Ben! Fellow 11 bang bang here. I only got out a few years ago but I still miss it sometimes haha. I've been looking to buy used where I can but am not seeing a large selection. The best site I've found for used gear so far is www.geartrade.com but I have yet to see anything I need on there. Do you have any particular sites in mind? I've been stalking Craigslist as well but I guess living in the heart of the Silicon Valley doesn't really result in a lot of used mountaineering gear. The down vs. synthetic debate has come up every time I try to do some research. As you said, I like the idea of the compressibility of down. It seems to be a matter of personal preference from everything I've read. I definitely want to keep the weight down as much as possible, but I am not interested in going super ultra light weight or whatever the latest name is. I can actually handle weight on my back quite well (though we will see if/how that changes when climbing) and while I'm not going to purposely load my pack with unnecessary weight, I won't sacrifice any necessities for the sake of weight. After I get my feet wet in a course and understand the basics I would definitely love to climb Hood and appreciate the offer. If I learned anything in the infantry it was follow the experienced guys haha.
  25. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Thanks for the reply, Buck. Keeping light is definitely something I've been trying to stick with. Currently I plan on using an Osprey Atmos AG 65 that I picked up recently. It was a big improvement over my old pack and while it's not the lightest, it definitely makes the same weight load feel lighter versus my old, lighter pack. Perhaps as I get more into this I can upgrade to a lighter, climbing specific pack. So it sounds like for climbing in the wetter mountains of Oregon a different puffy would work better than say Shasta or Rainier. I was kind of hoping to find one that could fit the bill for most climbs in California, Oregon and Washington. Essentially I want to build up to Rainier so I will definitely be planning on climbing in those generally drier conditions plus in Oregon's cascades. So for the hardshell it seems like I could probably get away with something cheaper since my climbs starting out will be ~3-5 days max. I forgot to mention another hardshell on the cheaper side, the OR Foray. For 120 bucks it's definitely a nice price. The Arcteryx Alpha SL does look very nice though and would definitely be more durable. The fact that it's five ounces lighter than the Foray is nice too but the SL is obviously on the guide level. Wow, that class sounds awesome! Too bad I can't find anything like that now. By no means am I dead set on Shasta as the first climb or the course, it's simply the most practical for me due to my location. I am not opposed to heading north to attend a course but I would prefer to go no further than Oregon. Do you have any particular courses in mind? Thanks again.
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