Rope? 11mm or 10.5- 60m or 50m???

[mplutodh1]

Hey guys,

I am lookin to buy a rope and i am curious what i should get, i climb mainly at marymoor right now, workin on skill stuff, and i am goin to start goin to VW. I am goin to get a dry rope but i was curious as to what kind i should get, i will be lead climbing and then setting the rope for my bro to top rope, so i want a 10.5 or 11mm? my next question was to climb at marymoor do i need a 60m? or will a 50 do? any ideas on a place to get them cheap?

-matt

[texplorer]

Pluto,

First of all, I doubt you'll need a dry rope for what your going to be climbing. Dry ropes are mainly for use on glacier and vertical ice climbs. Seldom will you be climbing on rock when its rainy and wet. As far as length -go with the 60m if you can afford it. It never hurts to have a little extra and it's necessary on some climbs. Some people are even moving up to 65m or 70m ropes even. You should be able to find a decent rope for about $100 if you look around. I even have seen them at the Recreational Evil Impire (REI) for just over a franklin. I would also recommend a metolious rope bag to protect your rope. I have one that has a roll out tarp -its really nice to have and worth the 30 or 40 bucks extra.

[texplorer]

oh, almost forgot.

Go with the 10.5mm or I am even looking at getting a 10mm or 9.9mm. They are lighter and smaller.

Cheers

[mplutodh1]

should i get a dry rope just to be safe? i mean do they last longer?

[Charlie]

for cragging- lots of falls, scraping edges while topropping, etc- i would go ahead and get an 11mm. personally have 2 ropes i use- an 11mm 60m nondry for crags and a 10.2mm 60m dry for alpine. i bought the 11mm from http://www.sierratradingpost.com for $100. i wouldnt waste my time with a 50m-

[rr666]

 

One more vote for a 60m. Nowadays they are very handy and very necessary in some areas. I don't know how i ever lived with my 50m rope. So many routes will either require 2 50m ropes to rap, or a single 60m, and even some require a pair of 60s, plus they come in handy to join rappels, pitches, etc.

For the type of craggin it sounds like you are going to be doing, go for the 11mm. It will take all of the abuse for a lot longer than a smaller rope.

Cheers,

Me

[pope]

10.5 vs. 11 mm? The question is, will the weight saved with the lighter rope really enhance your performance to the point that it's worth the sacrifice in safety? A smaller diameter rope is more likely to cut over a sharp edge, and they shouldn't be used for "working" routes the way most climbers do today.

If your rope cuts, that's it. It seems so obvious, but I'd come up with every other possible way to cut weight first. If a 'biner snaps, your fall increases, but you still live. Go with light 'biners, go with lighter cams, take a smaller rack, but I'm just not comfortable whipping on a wimpy line.

[Rodchester]

I use a 9.8 mm x 60 meters dry. Love it.

Dry is for any alpine use. If you are a cragger only, skip the dry. Some say it makes a rope more durable. And some say there are aliens here on earth too. Maybe, maybe not.

Sure if you are on really hard ass trad stuff with lots of edges Pope's points are well taken and should be adhered to. Simple....the fatter the rope the better is is on an edge.

When I am cragging on harder stuff I use a 10.5mm x 55 meter.

The rope technology has REALLY improved in the past ten years. A 10mm is stronger than an 11mm was ten years ago. But Pope is right that you still can't change the pyshics of the smaller diamiter cutting more easily...they just make the sheath more resistent to cutting.

Who knows?

Good luck!!!

[Peter_Puget]

I agree with all those suggesting a 60m rope. I prefer dry ropes although I am not sure for simple rock climbing that it makes much difference. Since you are starting out I would suggest a thicker rope. But more importantly ask around for specific recomendations for hard wearing sheaths as different brands have different wear characteristics. This is important because easier trad routes tend to follow less of a plumb line than harder route or sport routes and until you learn how to protect routes you will most certainly create some rope drag messes which will be very hard on ropes. Top ropeing too can be very hard on ropes.

[Bronco]

To answer the last 2 questions, a 50m rope will reach everything at marymoor park and there are lots of ropes available at reioutlet.com and sierratradingpost.com

[ScottP]

The following comment is the perfect example of why beginners should be wary of what they read on such resources as this website.

"If a 'biner snaps, your fall increases, but you still live."

I'd add to that a strong "maybe".

[This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-08-2001).]

[EddieE]

If a biner snaps on a the last bolt you clipped, you might have ten bolts behind it to catch your fall. If the rope gets cut anywhere between you and your belayer, buh bye.

Ropes: get the fat 11m x 60m. This will last you awhile, especially if you protect it with a rope bag and tarp. Top roping is pretty tough on ropes and if you have the means, spring for the dry rope...we do live in the PNW. My dos centavos.

[Charlie]

yeah, i wouldnt listen to pope, he hasnt been climbing for very long and probably doesnt know anything.

[Alpine_Tom]

If you're going to be climbing a LOT at Marymoor, to the point where you may retire this rope after climbing primarily there, then the economics of tossing a 50m rope vs. a 60m rope come into play. You won't need a 60m rope at Marymoor.

It's not a lot of money, but for a starving student, the extra $20 or so might make the difference. (Or, make the difference between replacing the rope and holding onto it for another quarter.)

 

[Bronco]

60m dry 10.5 PMI rope for $55.00 plus shipping and tax!

http://rei-outlet.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=9435575&prmenbr=8000

I may buy one just because its such a good deal!

[summitseeker]

I suggest a 60m dry rope, 9.8mm (more length, less weight per unit length). Dry is definitely the way to go -- even if you're not going to be climbing ice or on glaciers -- because ropes do get wet. Keep in mind that a wet rope loses a lot of strength, so a dry rope is *always* safer. It's worth the extra money, IMHO.

[Cpt.Caveman]

10.5 will work for anything. 60 meter is very useful and necessary in a lot of places. Dont cut the budget when buying gear you will regret it in the future (meaning get the 60m). If you cannot find a rope then how did you find this site

Nuf said.

[pope]

Back in the day, we used to get by with 45m. I can remember many situations when that didn't reach the belay. But only a on a couple of occasions has 50m been less than adequate (Devil's Tower has a few pitches over 50m). Why not have an extra 10m, just in case? Because that adds 20% to the weight of your rope, 20% that you will pay for and carry but hardly ever use. On alpine terrain, simul-climbing with that much rope between you doesn't seem practical; the leader will constantly be fighting rope drag. If you can afford extra weight, go fat. Get an 11mm rope and ease your mind. I highly recommend a dry rope. Pope (on a rope).

[TimL]

Pluto,

Since you'll probably progress to other climbing areas outside of Marymoore I would get a 60 meter rope. Going with an 11m has its advantages and disadvantages. I've only used an 11 mm when wall climbing because of the harsh wear and tear of the environment. I think the biggest diameter you would want crag climbing would be a 10.5 mm but I think a 10.2 mm or 9.8 mm would be adequate. Why? Modern are strong enough I wouldn't worry about breaking, easier to handle and much lighter. Dry ropes are nice but I wouldn't let that be a large determining factor in your purchase, at least not yet. Also, I would like to point out the difference between buying a cheap rope and a more expensive rope. Not to be a brand whore but I’ve found that the more expensive ropes from reputable manufacturers last longer and have better handling. I personally like Edelweiss. Opinions are like assholes so you’ll hear that everyone favors a different brand.

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

[summitseeker]

Pope has some good comments -- weight being one of them. I get around this by owning lots of ropes and using the right rope(s) for the right circumstances. What I was aiming for in my post was a suggestion for a good, all around rope that will treat you well for a variety of situations. More bang for your buck, I guess. A 60m x 9.8mm dry rope will work well for cragging (lead and TR), get you up Devil's Tower (and other >50m pitches), do in a pinch for glacier travel, etc. It's an all-around good compromise, IMHO. And as far as being a brand whore, I like Mammut.

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: summitseeker ]

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: summitseeker ]

[pope]

I'm trying to get sponsored by Home Depot, so I highly recommend 1/2" hemp. Chuckles.

[D-Squared]

Just a FYI, REI-Outlet.com has BlueWater Double Dry 10.5mm X 50M ropes on clearence for $46. That is pretty damm cheap if you ask me...

Don, Stanwood, WA