first ascent [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper

[dberdinka]

Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.

[eggplantalpinism]

Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.

 

We *barely* made it with my 66m, but this is correct. Biner blocks would probably work with 5m of tag line and a 60m. Would not recommend anything less than 70m without that knowledge though. Also, there are at least 8-10 bolts on route that are hand-loose. I dunno how they were attached, but we had to use our ATCs to screw them tight (they conveniently fit the lightening hole profile of the BD guide ATC perfectly). Little scary to see so many loose bolts though, they might need a different style of nut.

 

Also, the intermediate rap anchor next to P3 is very well hidden, keep looking on the big dirt ledge 4ish bolts up P3. Fun route!

[Rad]

A week ago nuts on all bolts were checked and tightened as needed. I hope to get up there before the fall rains fly and will check then as well.

[MrGecko]

Rad - all bolts seemed to be in good shape less that eye sore which is hanging loose and well beaten but not removed on the start of pitch 3. Have you considered a separate rap line down the buttress?

 

RAPPEL ADVICE

If you end up bringing two ropes then you will only need them for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Backpack the second rope for all other rappels and save yourself the trouble of getting the knot stuck.

 

Ideally use a 70m rope.

[Rad]

Yes, a single 70 meter rope is ideal.

 

Thx for the update. Sadly, I'm recovering from an injury, so I won't make it out there.

[dberdinka]

Where are people getting jammed up on the rappel? I think adding a rap anchor (on route) 5-10m above the dihedral belay could allow rapping the route with a 60m rope and probably avoid the one really awkward station to avoid another group. (I think it's possible P1 could be rapped with a 60m but haven't tried it so watch those ends if you do!)

 

A seperate rap route would entail an equally massive amount of cleaning if not more since the arete seemed like the most solid rock on the peak. Not that I have the time or interest in doing so, but if the routes gotten popular would need to shut down traffic for awhile.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Climbed MHC with a couple friends yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. We were amazed by the friction offered by this unusual rock. The stance at the top of P5 (the money dihedral) felt pretty darn airy with three people there. The intermediate rap anchor on P3 had a loose nut on the left bolt. Lacking any tools, we just finger tightened it. Probably a good idea to carry a small wrench on this climb.

 

The exposure of this climb reminded me of the SW ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites, a route I did many years ago with my wife. MHC was more technical, but not quite as scenic. Thanks Rad and Darin!

[RodrigoB]

I had a lot of fun on this climb about a week ago. Good times. I carried up a wrench a tightened a couple of bolts along the way. That said, I may have missed some given that I was distacted by the disproportionate amount of Type 1 fun. I'd still recommend someone else carry up small wrench for good measure. And thanks for the route Rad and Darin. The summit register suggests your service to the community is well-appreciated. And Lowell, your comment about the contents of the summit register was fantastic.

Edited September 2, 2017 by RodrigoB

[Rad]

Thx. We may look into adding another anchor at the top of p5 to ease the traffic jam of descending vs ascending parties. I'm still healing from hamstring surgery, so it'll be late fall at the earliest. If you have other suggestions please let me know via pm.

[Rafael_H]

Very nice, fun route! Thanks, guys!!!

 

Climbed in 4 70m rope lengths, linking every 2 pitches, there was a tiny bit simuling on the second pair, can't say how much but my partner was ok with it.

 

Very cozy, comfortable summit, pleasure to relax a bit on.

 

The register was easy enough to open, just punch in the answer to a common dynamic programming puzzle, but the box needs to be waterproof.

 

I apparently forgot the details on rapping, so we scrambled down to the belay station on the big ledge with the messed up bolt. I'd say relocate those bolts a foot down, or just one."

 

Lots of supercute pikas lagging greenery for nests.

Edited September 27, 2017 by Rafael_H

[RodrigoB]

The simul-bit on the second pitch (3-4 by the book) with the 70 m rope is about 3 m (maybe less). It really just requires a step up and to the left onto ledge if I remember correctly. It's easy terrain for the follower, but still requires stepping away from the belay.

Edited September 29, 2017 by RodrigoB

[Rad]

Updates:

 

- Bolts at anchors were tightened.

- Managed to leave the socket wrench out there, perhaps on the summit. Send PM if you find it or leave it in the summit register. Thx

- The pitch linking beta above was spot on. 20 quickdraws (10 extendable slings, 10 bones) plus a single 70m rope was sufficient. You can easily skip a few or back clean if needed.

[Frankazoid]

Rad, a few days ago I skied vesper, and while on the summit I could hear shouts from Morning Star.. My partner and I were almost convinced the shouts were "help", but shortly thereafter realized it was just climber communication on MS.  So I chuckled just now when reading your Initial post on the SAR team dispatched to your FA..  The climbers were on MHC.

Really nice looking route; was staring at that exact line on my way to Headlee Pass thinking it could make for an excellent rock climb.. little did I know!  Would love to get on it this season.. (perhaps follow, haven't climbed much since I developed a skiing problem) 

[Alisse]

Hey! So sad, the route overlay and other photo links seem to be broken for me. Is it just me?

[specialforest]

Yep, all photos are gone now.

[Rad]

There is a rap line just right of the climbing route that should alleviate traffic jams.

You can now get up and down w a single 60 rope. Use the LOWER anchor when coming down from the summit (just below the top of p6). Use the UPPER anchor above the dihedral pitch. Use the p1 anchor on the last rap instead of the rap anchor skier's left and below it, or else be prepared to make sure the rope doesn't run in a constriction and get stuck...been there done that. 

Enjoy!

[Rad]

Route overlay. Dots are belays. Yellow is approach ramp.

[Alisse]

@Rad Thanks for this and your commitment to the route! ☺☺☺

[JoelW]

Such a fun route and great info on the climb. Thanks Rad. I've now taken my daughter twice on this climb - once at 9 yrs old and this year at 10 . She loves it!