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MrGecko

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Everything posted by MrGecko

  1. Fury - MSR's lightest, extreme-condition mountaineering tent can be pitched in limited space BRAND NEW WITH TAGS - $400 Purchased for expedition to Alaska but did not go. The Fury 2-person lightweight mountaineering tent offers unmatched double-wall strength and reliability. The tent's small footprint allows it to be pitched with minimal platform prep on steep slopes and ridges, and it weighs just 6 lbs 4 oz (2.84 kg). A roomy, hooped front vestibule maximizes critical interior space, and a large rear window keeps weight down without compromising the excellent cross-ventilation that's mandatory in a mountaineering tent of this size. Brand new with tags, never used, 7lbs 3oz, retails for $599 I would consider a trade for a porta-ledge in equivalent condition/value. Located in Portland but can deliver to Seattle if you time your purchase right! http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/tents/explore-series/fury/product
  2. OZONE - Route Updates

    As an extension to the 2014 route updates here is what's up: A) Variety 5.8 - new top anchors were added so the route can be rappelled. B) Whine and Cheese 5.10d - this route was cleaned up and retro bolted to eliminate decking on the 1st ledge. A direct variation was added which offers more climbing in the grade by ascending directly up the overhang/bulge mid route. The direct variation doesn't require gear and is completely bolt protected. C) Meth Rage 5.7 - top anchors were replaced with 1/2" SS D) Tofutie Cutie 5.11a - a new route added between Meth Rage and Mrs. Norris. Bolts and 1 optional pc of gear ~1" after the third bolt. E) Mrs. Norris 5.11c - this route was retro bolted, extended and had the old pins removed. It no longer requires gear and now climbs all the way to the Meth Rage anchors. F) The Crumbling 5.12a - the scary bolts were pulled and replaced and this route also was extended to the Meth Rage anchors. The prior update thread: 2014 Ozone Updates Note that updates to routes are also posted on Mt Project
  3. OZONE - Route Updates

    Kevin - any chance you want to add your latest and greatest routes here? Flash In The Park Pan Handled and Whats That Other One Called?
  4. I'm in want of some of this, rope hook for sure.
  5. Rad - all bolts seemed to be in good shape less that eye sore which is hanging loose and well beaten but not removed on the start of pitch 3. Have you considered a separate rap line down the buttress? RAPPEL ADVICE If you end up bringing two ropes then you will only need them for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Backpack the second rope for all other rappels and save yourself the trouble of getting the knot stuck. Ideally use a 70m rope.
  6. Beacon

    So is this Stone Soup or Smoke Signals? It'd be nice to have it clear for the new guide book.
  7. Used A5 Haul Bag

    Located where? Interested
  8. Beacon

    "but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch..." So Pink, what did you climb as the second pitch if it wasn't the line Ivan climbed as Stone Soup?
  9. Beacon

    Wrong side of the river G-Spot
  10. Beacon

    oh now things are a heat'in up, did someone say fighten werds? What's the story here? but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch...
  11. Beacon

    Looks like Micah beat me to it but yeah the Smoke Signals to Stone Soup connection went well yesterday. There is a fair amount of tat on the line and we cleaned up what we could. A short list of TO-Do's remains so that the link up will run a bit more smoothly for free climbing it. Some of the points where the belays are moved up 10m or so need to have a second anchor added. Most of these just need to be 2 bolts and not rap anchors as they don't really serve well for the somewhat existing rap line. The rap line itself will get a few replacements to accommodate a single rope retreat from as high as pitch 6. Perhaps I can recruit Ivan to assist with that since he seems to know the general decent line well. Most of the gear is solid, the bolt at the base of the double off width on P3 is a spinner and not just the hanger. I'm not keen on adding another bolt on that section as I'd rather see folks carry a #6 cam rather than leaving it in the closet its whole life. There is also a chock stone that can be used if any of them new climbers can figure out how that is done. Pitch 4 has at least 3 variations at this point including a 5.5, 5.10d/11a, maybe 12 or aiding a bolt ladder. Pitch 5 will get a variation thru the roof which will be more along the 11- grade and the tied off pin under the roof will likely get replaced with a bolt more in line for the free climber. Pitch 6 This is the pitch that is most concerning for me. The belayer is in a bad position given the large number of loose blocks above. There is also the concern about where these would land if they were knocked off. Inevitably they will come down at one point or another, only a matter of time. I feel a coordinated effort would be the best remedy here. There is also a possibility for a reroute of pitch 6 to avoid those blocks altogether but that is yet to be determined. I've thrown together these images as a topo, the last 2 pitches might be a bit off but the general idea is there and the route fits the description in the PRG. Pitch 2 & 3 Upper pitches Pitch 2 detail Looking up pitch 2
  12. Beacon

    ...or the village whore...
  13. OZONE - Route Updates

    Jack The Ripper Added an extension to the fine crack route called Ripper. Goes up about 30m or so and currently shares top anchors with Orion. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/jack-the-ripper/109532675
  14. Yard Sale- Ice, Aid, Harnesses, Down, Packraft etc

    Received quickly and everything in stellar condition. Thanks!
  15. Beacon

    Does the route follow the top rope line up and over to the anchors as shown in your picture below? Jim mentioned it was April 11, 99 or 2000 that he thinks you did the route with him. You recall?
  16. Yard Sale- Ice, Aid, Harnesses, Down, Packraft etc

    I'll PM you on: 9 bashies of various sizes, unused Funk leash, Fish brand, I think. Used once or twice Petzl swivel Edelrid double locking belay biner with keeper loop Thx
  17. Beacon

    Mr.Pink - I'll check out that start and let you know. I don't recall exactly how many bolts and pins are on P2 but Bill's count sounds about right. Are you serious it is called Leprechauns in Leotards? Who put that up if it wasn't Jim and Andrew? 11b??
  18. Beacon

    Bejebus Ivan - sorry to hear that dude.
  19. Beacon

    Jim was very stoked to see us freeing P2 of Smoke Signals. I saw a car stop in the parking area and this guy watched us intently for quite some time. When we made it back to the Parking Lot ledge he yelled up "Great job! Its about time that route gets freed more often!" I recognized him from his voice and he looked very pleased giving us the thumbs up numerous times. I'll definitely get him involved and out there to get his hands dirty. Please get Jim out there, that would make me happier than anything. Thanks, Andrew
  20. Beacon

    Thanks again Pink, I'll chat with Jim and get him to chime in with his ultimate wisdom and mayor-shipery. Hopefully he can come out, climb and help clean that first pitch up with us!
  21. Beacon

    Pink - well done to you and Jim for putting that up. I don't know why it hasn't been rediscovered since you did but it really is great climbing especially pitch 2. For all the closing down of Beacon until July this would be the shit as far as a great multi-pitch outing. It sounds like Stoned Soup follows the Smoke Signals 2nd pitch and not vise-versa. Do you know the approximate date you and Jim set that route up? I was thinking that a fixed piece/pin could go into that traverse on pitch 1 where the gear is desperate and sketchy. I also think that older pin needs to be updated as it was a tad loose and looks a bit on the corroded side of good. Should I talk to Jim and have him come out or do you want to? Can we push Smoke to the top and add some more free climbing? I'm stoked that we got on this and am excited to explore running it to the top.
  22. Beacon

    A couple days of climbing at Beacon on the NW side. The rock sure isn't like the south side. Saturday we freed the first pitch of Stone Soup. It really doesn't climb that great as far as a line goes. Awkward, easier climbing to a pin, then a few harder moves until in a pod just below the bolts. Thin uninspiring climbing into exfoliating rock. Hard 11 or easy 12 thru this section but if the intention was to aid, the bolts are more set up for free climbing. Then searching thru the carpet of moss next door we find holds, edges and nice movement. A bit of cleaning and unearthing and we spot an old pin. We carry on and the climbing gets harder but is just as fun. Another uninspiring pin is found higher up, rusting and in need of some seating, I'm not sure this one just shouldn't be fixed up. This route really is the better half of the ugly twin beside it. It finally exits out left before heading up some slab to the same top anchors. Why isn't this the hailed route of this section of rock I don't know but it sure has potential. The following day we return with a brush, a bag full of gear and a desire to get the first two pitches of what we believe is SMOKE SIGNALS knocked out. The Portland Rock Guide doesn't name the route but suggests difficult gear placements and a 10c rating. The first 2/3's of the pitch eats gear really well after the crap was cleaned out of the cracks. The preferred diet seemed to be DMM offset nuts and a few cams. Not sure why the first pin was even necessary as there are good placements on either side of it. The second pin is a welcome fixed piece but beyond that the gear is a real challenge. Pretty much everything placed was wonked, tipped out lobes, uneven cams, a funky torqued nut all while working through the crux sequences. Just to see if anything better could be had I rapped back down to the crux section and took time while hanging to fiddle with gear and see what I could come up with. There really isn't much that is good and if this route wants to get climbed more often (and it should because it really is a quality line) it could do with another fixed piece or two. Later on in the day we started up the second pitch of the route. This would be the second pitch of Stone Soup. Since this rock is exposed to direct afternoon sun it was quite clean and free of moss. This line climbed very nice and reminded me more of a something you would find on granite. Big cracks, long reaches, fat flakes and pretty good gear with the exception of a Pecker and a swagged short piton that isn't fully seated. We passed a small tree with a sling ladder attached to it. Not sure why, there are some excellent free moves right there and then to a final head wall with 3 poorly implemented bolts. Two of them are loose, one has the hanger fixed sideways resting on a thin horizontal edge. They all had the studs sticking too far out such that a fall past one could skewer the leg or worse, snag and damage the rope. They are all placed too far to the right of the natural free climbing line. I think they should all be replaced and done correctly. With a good clean-up and a few additions for protection these two pitches would make for a solid free line on the NW side of high quality climbing that goes at about 10c/d. Jim O was out watching the upper pitch go down and said it was about time that thing gets freed more often. It was a little disappointing to see PBR trash stuffed into the crack at the first belay. I can only imagine this would be climbers as it isn't accessible otherwise. P1 Stoned Soup - this line sucks in our collective opinion P1 Smoke Signals - look at all that gear and up to about the last 1/3 it was darn solid too! Piton #1 with perfect taper nut placements on either side P2 - Smoke Signals or P2 Stoned Soup, same line but I suppose it is called Smoke Signals if you free it. We were thinking about 10d for this pitch. At least leave 'em full next time
  23. Ozone trail improvement.

    Brian, did you also work the trail over at the DropZone/Farside?
  24. A new route went in The Landing area called Thin Line 5.10c It has four bolts and some thin gear and currently ends at the Dark Horse Anchors. It may get a direct finish sometime in the future. The Oracle 5.10c has had two bolts added.
  25. DROPZONE/FARSIDE - Route Updates

    Tunnel Vision received a new bolt at the lip (crux) and it is intended to be clipped after the big throw. Not sure that I would want to keep hucking away and landing on the section of rock below but to each their own. This would be an impressive onsight. The sketchy short knife blade pin on Lonesome Winner has now been replaced by a proper bolt.
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