Fromage Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Hey gang, I am looking to maximize the utility of my climbing time for the summer, and since I haven't spent a whole lot of time in the North Cascades it would be criminal of me to neglect them any further. Some peaks I am considering are these: Logan Forbidden Eldorado Buckner Goode The attributes I seek are minimally confusing approaches (I know, these are the North Cascades), aesthetically pleasing routes, technical difficulty of 5.7 max (for speed), and proximity to established campgrounds along major trail systems (LNT considerations). Please let me know your thoughts on these peaks if you have done them, or suggest some others you think merit consideration. Thanks Quote
eric8 Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 so i gues minimally confusing approaches rules out the pickets? Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Liberty Bell (Beckey Route) and South Early Winter Spire (South Arete), both in one day is great fun. Eldorado is a great choice too. Same highway. Quote
fleblebleb Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Eldorado and Forbidden are very accessible and have great routes. Given your constraints I'd look at Shuksan and Stuart before Buckner, Logan, Goode or the Pickets. Quote
Mr._Natural Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 I have done the Banded Glacier route on Logan. It is an incredible area, but the climbing on that route was pretty boring. Goode looks much more interesting. We did the long but straight foward approach from rainey pass/bridge creek. Quote
mattp Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Fromage- I would delete Buckner from your list and add Shuksan. Although one of the highest Cascade peaks and fairly easy (technically), Buckner has a slightly gnarly approach to the standard route that I have not done but which I believe to be not all that exciting while Shuksan (via either Lake Anne to the Fischer Chimney's route or the cross country "trail" to the Sulphide) is just as high (maybe 30 feet higher ?), heavily glaciated, and about as scenic as it gets. A climb of Shucksan includes glaciers travel and a rock pyramid at the summit, and it is more distant from surrounding peaks. Indeed, in my opinion Shuksan is one of the most beautiful peaks in the State. I am assuming that you are asking about relatively non-technical ascents, and both of these routes on Shuksan would fit the bill. I would not overlook Mount Baker, either. Though a volcano (volcano's may not be seen as classic Cascade peaks), it has an easy approach to either the Coleman Glacier route or the Easton Glacier route, and it is way scenic. Quote
slothrop Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Definitely go to Eldorado. The approach isn't that bad and the climbing is quite easy via the standard route. Good bivy sites at the base of the route, too, and you'll get incredible views of Forbidden across the way. You can stash beers in the creek mere minutes from the car. Quote
salbrecher Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Why stop at the north cascades? keep going to some real mountains in BC. Wait no, Stay in the cascades Quote
To_The_Top Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 On Eldorado consider a non popular approach like the Sibley creek approach, better than the other and more of a N Cascade experiance. TTT Quote
plexus Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 If you're trying to maximize your climbing time, tick off an area. The Washington Pass area offers solid climbing on various peaks (S. Winter Spire, Concord Tower, Liberty Bell, Kangaroo Ridge, Silver Star and Cutthroat) as does the Cascade Pass area (Forbidden, just do it on a week day to avoid the crowds, Torment, Mixup, Sahale and further up the valley Eldorado and Primus). Logan is an easy climb and it takes a day approach to get there, not a good idea if you are limited on time. Just a thought. Good luck! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Looking at your list I have only done 2 of them. However if I was to pick one climb out of the other 3 I would go for Goode. It appears to be a nice mountain. Although it's not short work getting in and out of there (unless you are some alpine ninja) I bet it's worth it. I agree with some people here when they suggest climbing Mt Shuksan. I also agree with climbing Mt Stuart via the North Ridge if you can too (although not in the park). How about Triumph as well? I disagree with WA pass unless you just like sub alpine granite climbs. Although it's a nice area it's mostly just rock climbing and no cool glacier terrain. For some reason I beleive many out of state mountain climbers come to view this range with it's expanse of cool glaciers. Quote
fleblebleb Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Triumph is very cool but you'd need to be quite the alpine ninja to pull it off in a day. I failed to do it in a day plus an evening, because we got lost on the approach in the dark (wrong side of @#$% lake). It's quite reasonable in two days but lots of folks take three. If you have two or three days to do a single climb in that area I would also consider the South Pickets. I haven't climbed there myself but I've heard so much raving about Inspiration that it is starting to make my ears hurt by now. Quote
plexus Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 You're probably right about the appeal of glaciers to out-of-staters Capt. I know when I first moved here from chicago, I couldn't even believe there was snow at places in the summertime !! I just like a trip to the Pass once a year. It's nice to have an approach without the brush every once in awhile and there are what I think, are some nice enjoyable and mellow climbs there (I have yet to get the fortitude to do some of the eastern-side Spires climbs). Quote
mattp Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 Goode is a great climb, but many people have difficulty with the approach, both with getting lost and with battling the brush. The descent, too, can be an issue. You have to decide whether to carry over or to downclimb the route. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 13, 2003 Posted January 13, 2003 I prefer glaciated approaches. The scenery is better for me. I've looked at plenty of bushes even close up. So I know what they are about Quote
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