[TR] Vantage Crags - Feathers - Satan's pillar 4/25/2014

[Ramkathi]

Trip: Vantage Crags - Feathers - Satan's pillar

 

Date: 4/25/2014

 

Trip Report:

 

7 new routes have been developed in vantage last weekend. We were watching 2 new routes being done.

 

The constant drilling noise and loose rocks falling made us curious. It was just close to satan's pillar.

 

We went to try it after the route was ready. We are probably second or third ascent.

 

it was all loose rocks. I was able to climb pretty easy without knocking much of loose rock.

 

but when my partner climbed, he reached the top, while about to clip to anchor, he fell off a loose rock hold breaking, and took a big lead fall.

 

just be careful when you do these new routes.

 

it may take sometime to clean these loose rocks from here. also while belaying or walking around , be careful below. wear helmets.

 

Gear Notes:

sports - 4 clips

 

Approach Notes:

feathers

[Ramkathi]

more photos here:

[JTrevino]

Seven new routes at the feathers! This is wonderful. Let’s promote the crap out of these new climbs; The Feathers, Vantage’s best climbs only 50 feet from the road. There’s nothing else worth climbing around the area, so please do not venture any further than the Feathers. I hope these additional routes will reduce riff raft climbing traffic at some of the "less desirable" climbs Frenchman’s has to offer.

[Frankazoid]

I was there when a route was being bolted. I warned them to remove the routes, that the feathers were done long ago, and that everything they leave up will be a serious danger to the public.

 

I witnessed a cluster of rocks falling down a belayer as his climber tried to find footing on solid rock, but there was none.

 

So I gotta point you out, since you left your garbage up after explained why it needed to go...

 

Fu** Y** for putting other people's lives at risk.

 

Take your garbage down or I will on my next visit.

 

And sell your drill, Brenden Sullivan & Bro.

 

So god da*n sincere it's not even funny,

 

-Frank

 

[Frankazoid]

...and could you have been any higher when you were looking for where to drill an anchor through broken garbage on top of the pillar? Seriously man, that's lame as shi*t. You should meditate on this stuff if you still don't get it, and maybe post a new thread explaining the hazard you have created and how to avoid it until you can take care of it. Which I really hope will be soon.

 

Sunny, warm days are here for beginning climbers (sometimes naive to the dangers around them), itching to take a stab at the challenges the feathers has to offer.

[num1mc]

I was there when a route was being bolted. I warned them to remove the routes, that the feathers were done long ago, and that everything they leave up will be a serious danger to the public.

 

I witnessed a cluster of rocks falling down a belayer as his climber tried to find footing on solid rock, but there was none.

 

So I gotta point you out, since you left your garbage up after explained why it needed to go...

 

Fu** Y** for putting other people's lives at risk.

 

Take your garbage down or I will on my next visit.

 

And sell your drill, Brenden Sullivan & Bro.

 

So god da*n sincere it's not even funny,

 

-Frank

 

[JasonG]

This has taken an interesting turn. PSA indeed.

[ivan]

soooooo.....rating estimates?

[Paul_detrick]

Saying these routes are life threatening might be a little exaggerated, climbed most of them, yes there is some loose rock, but it is Vantage, no more than the rest of the routes there. Were they all necessary????? debate on.

[pink]

i don't get the use of the words "route setters", like you're some sort of elite delta force or something…. as if the "route setters" are doing some sort of public service. it reminds me of the word's "job creators". thanks for the belly laugh

[num1mc]

Why? You left something that others feel is garbage. You set a route at your own discretion and peril.

[Cragdogg]

An actual trip report! Hope you found the climbs enjoyable for what they are.

[Alex]

this personal smack talking is a joke, take it to PMs, email, or go duke it out in the Feathers parking lot. when you meet in person you might find some common ground and actually do something positive that benefits climbers, rather than this continuing spew on the internet.

 

thx

[boadman]

If anyone wants to spend money and time on climbing routes, there is a lot of old hardware out there on super quality climbs that needs replacement. Maybe before bolting new choss, we should make sure the old not-choss is up to date?

 

Here is a really good article:

 

http://www.climbing.com/climber/built-to-last/

 

It does kind of gloss over the fact that bolters are donating time and money to these efforts.

[ivan]

i don't get the use of the words "route setters", ... it reminds me of the word's "job creators".

like the proverbial monkey banging away on a keyboard, you have come up w/ a shakespearian gem sir

[Rad]

Folks, the reality is that route development is not consensus activity. No route developer I've ever met polls climbers to ask if a line would be worth developing. They have a vision and inject passion, hard work, and their own money to try to make it happen. Sometimes the results are great. Sometimes they're horrible. You can't please all the people all of the time. Personally, I try to think about what the near-term and long-term impact of developing a line will be.

 

There are a lot of elements that go into the science and art of route development. There are a lot of mistakes to avoid, and there is usually not any training or mentoring for these people. I'm not an expert, but if you have questions feel free to send me a PM and if I can't answer your questions I can at least connect you with smart, experienced and thoughtful people. I would at least hope that anyone embarking on this understands that climber access to public lands depends on being good citizens and resources users. One or two bad acts can quickly undo a lot of good work by climbers working with land managers.

 

Climb on, brothers and sisters.

[Frankazoid]

Well, I guess I was mentored by a thoughtful and experienced new route developer... and Brenden, I thought you had been climbing and learning about route development under the wing of a very good and well known developer, also?? So i'm baffled as to why you bolted these lines at the feathers, really. I know who you have been hanging out with the last couple years, and that person is extremely competent from what I understand, so it just doesnt make any sense. Why are you not applying what you have learned?

[num1mc]

Folks, the reality is that route development is not consensus activity. No route developer I've ever met polls climbers to ask if a line would be worth developing. They have a vision and inject passion, hard work, and their own money to try to make it happen. Sometimes the results are great. Sometimes they're horrible. You can't please all the people all of the time. Personally, I try to think about what the near-term and long-term impact of developing a line will be.

 

There are a lot of elements that go into the science and art of route development. There are a lot of mistakes to avoid, and there is usually not any training or mentoring for these people. I'm not an expert, but if you have questions feel free to send me a PM and if I can't answer your questions I can at least connect you with smart, experienced and thoughtful people. I would at least hope that anyone embarking on this understands that climber access to public lands depends on being good citizens and resources users. One or two bad acts can quickly undo a lot of good work by climbers working with land managers.

 

The art and science of route setting at the Feathers?

 

Naah, not here

Edited May 8, 2014 by num1mc

[Rad]

....

There are a lot of elements that go into the science and art of route development. ...

 

The art and science of route setting at the Feathers?

 

Naah, not here

 

Art: Deciding which piles of choss could be good routes if cleaned and which ones should remain undeveloped choss.

 

Science: Placing bolts and anchors so that climbers will be safe.

[G-spotter]

powerwasher +sandblaster +shotcrete = solid vantage route