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More Ice wanted


David_Parker
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I personally think this fall is a great oportunity to climb some alpine ice routes. It's a fine line between ice being in, days getting shorter, and snows at higher elevations coming. Last years low snow pack means more ice is exposed. The time to act is NOW! With perseverance, you can get to/on it. Mt. Buckner was no problem. I'm looking to do at least one or two more climbs this fall of a north facing route with ice. I'm not particular...Shucksan, Baker, Spider, J-Berg, anything else you think of. Hell, I'd like to do Liberty Ridge right now. If you are thinking like me, get in touch!

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Mr Parker -

You are absolutely right. Earlier threads indicated that Buckner and Maude were done for the year over a month ago, but these and Spider and other "ice climbs" like them usually don't even have any ice until this time of year. I have a few available weekends coming up and I might like to get out with you. If not, I hope one of our other CC.com buddies will

Climbers -

For those willing to crawl over the dirty terrain that often surrounds late season snow and ice, or able to cross a blocking crevass by climbing down in and back out of it, Call David Parker for a good time.

- Natt

 

 

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Mike Stanton, Mike Adamson and I went into Colchuck very late last season last year (November sometime), Colchuck Gl. was very low angle. If you are looking to two-tool it, I would suggest

NE Face Eldorado

N Face Observation (very short!)

Big Four Ice Caves

Coleman Glacier seracing

stuff like that.

Alex

[This message has been edited by Alex (edited 09-24-2001).]

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Unfortunately I think we were about 2 weeks too late for the Colchuck glacier to present some hard alpine ice. There was already about 4-6 feet of new snow. Right now might be decent actually. The Quien Sabe glacier opened up interestingly this season and has some good opportunities to do some alpine ice in the form of seracing.

Hi Loren Campbell. I'm thinking about you....

[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 09-24-2001).]

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Colchuck Glacier didn't look that inviting on Sunday. No snow cover, crevassed and dirty, implying a fair amount of rockfall. Even early in the day we could hear some pretty large stuff moving on it. It's also not that steep, you'd have to come up with a really contrived line to make it interesting.

Alex is right. The Coleman Gl. seracs definitely represent the best ice for least hiking if you want to get on something steep.

 

Liberty Ridge... nice one. You could drytool the 3000' of loose crap from the horribly crevassed Carbon Gl to Thumb Rock.

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The center line on the Coleman Headwall still looked "do-able" as of last Saturday (not saying I would do it :-). This from looking at it from the coleman glacier icefall "cragging" area. Anyway, it has a small bergschrund at the top, a big one at the bottom, but in between looked like smooth ice, other than one cliffy thing halfway up. Who knows what its like gettin' to the base though. Fresh snow near the top too.

The "serac'ing" in the lower icefall is decent now. Best quality ice I've ever seen there, actually.

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I haven't been up there, but I bet the NE face is in fine shape right now...

In my very humble opinion, it's a nice variation to the standard route, but that's about all it is. Not very long - about like Observation Rock, but not as steep. Not really "two-tool" territory, unless you play around in the bergscrhund/crevasses.

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My only experience on ice in the NW was last week at this time on Nisqually.

It was AWESOME! grin.gif

The trek out there on the scree and talus slopes had a lot to be desired. Things were rolling down from every which way on the mountain and under our feet. frown.gif

Once we were out on the glacier it was hard to decide what we wanted to climb first. Too many good options to choose from! smile.gif

Just got back to MN tonight. We are looking at a freeze advisory in the southern part of the state! The northern part has been in the upper 20's the past few nights. More rain, more nights like this and we will be climbing ice out here soon!!!! tongue.gif

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I would have to agree with phil on the NE face of Eldo being more of a variation. I climbed it about a week and half ago. It is in fine shape, but for those looking for an "ice climb" you may want to look elsewhere.

We did climb a short overhanging wall on crevasse just to save some traversing and to not feel like losers for humping a bunch of extra gear up to the route.

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quote:

Originally posted by mneagle:

Anyone ever try Stuart's Ice Cliff Glacier this time of year?

You got a death wish? Seriously it looked pretty well melted out over a month ago but possibly doable on the upper snow chute. Have at it but I think it is not the wisest time to do it. I bet it can be done if you are persistant.

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Mneagle, Now we're talkin! I just laugh at those who laugh at the mere suggestion that it's not crazy to think this is the season for a route like the ice cliff glacier. It's not crazy. Unless you've been on routes like this in the fall, shut up! They aren't death wishes. Closer examination will reveal when the hardmen first climed these routes. I had the opportunity to swill beer with Dave Mahre a long while back and he told me some good beta! Hard ice is fast and fast is safe! Well now I'm in tune with that. I'm just waiting for the right partner who thinks like me. Glad you noticed Wayne! R-U ready?

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David if you read my post closely you see that I say it can be done. If you dont like it dont tell me to shut up unless you expect me to take it as an insult. Maybe you have been climbing ice for 16 years but not me. So I put in my 2 cents and you did not like it. Feel free to send me a personal message if you want to be more of an asshole than you just have been! What I really suspect is that you hold some hidden grudge against me because I am a voiceful person on this website. Get real.

[This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-28-2001).]

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mneagle,

I've done it twice in early October, last time being in '97. When it is in, what can I say, it's a blast, very doable and depending on your ability can be a nice intro to some basic "mixed" climbing.

Sounds like "Cavey" has some recent beta on conditions this year, of course that will be more than likely the most deciding factor. Perhaps some of other guys that have gone up the North Ridge have some more as well.

Hey David Parker, isn't "Spike" something else? He is without doubt the biggest "little" guy I have ever met. Having been a Yakima boy for the better part of 20 years I met and climbed several times with him. Spent alot of time skiing White Pass when Dave was the "Mountain Manager". People like Dave(and his wife Mary, god rest her sole) don't come around to often in life.

I will never forget one time we were taking some novice friends up the Emmons. We're camped at Shurman and we see these poor "fucks" draggin' their butts down, just beat, turns out they were coimg over from Liberty Ridge. Anyhow, next thing we know, the last guy on the rope unties because he's holding up the rest of the group (4 total, I think, god this was probally '89 or '90)and he's probally still a good 45 min to an hour out of camp coming down the corridor.

A couple other climbers in camp rope up and go get the poor sap and Spike goes into the story telling us about when Marty Hoey died while climbing with him and "Wick" on Everest. Just unreal, so much passion, so much depth.

It was nice to see Lou give him some space in his book, the man will always be someone I admire not just because he is a climber and a pioneer in our area, but he is truly a "Big" person

Wes

[This message has been edited by westerntk@aol.com (edited 09-28-2001).]

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Woah Cappy. Down boy! You're getting a little defensive and I don't think you should try to guess what I think about you because I really don't know what to think about you until I meet you. Just because I'm an opinionated person doesn't mean I'm an asshole. Maybe you can get to know me this weekend. Then if you still think I'm an asshole, well so be it and we won't have to ever climb together. I don't form opinions about people until I meet them. But if it helps, I wasn't speaking (or laughing) to you specifically. I'm sorry you interpreted "those" as yourself only. Try to understand that your comments along with others just struck a cord that set me off a little. Might go way back to my relationship with my mother or something, but I just don't respond well to being told I have a death wish. Part of climbing for me is believing I can do the routes I want at the time I want. Perhaps you are right and it is not in shape, but I'll have to stick my face in it before I decide that. This also goes back to the time when many were telling me Buckner was not in shape. It was. So peace bro and see you this weekend.

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