[TR] Dumbell & Greenwood - Standards 9/26/2013

[JasonG]

Trip: Dumbell & Greenwood - Standards

 

Date: 9/26/2013

 

Trip Report:

Scott spends his summers toiling away on the fishing grounds of the Bering Sea, so when he returns each September he is really motivated to get out. Motivation is infectious, so when the UW model trended much worse just the day before we were set to leave, I ignored it and went with the sunny icon on the NWS site. The first indication that this was a mistake was pretty early, 0730 to be exact, when we drove through rain on the way up and over Stevens. Oh well, at least we brought whiskey.

 

The normally jammed parking lot at the Phelps Creek TH was empty save for another two vehicles, and after the first half mile of trail we didn't see anyone else for the rest of the trip. Marveling at what tough hombres the old miners were, and chatting about our respective summers meant Scott and I were through Spider Meadow (fabulous as always) and in upper Phelps Basin before we knew it. The clouds continued to swirl and thicken, but Scott was still motivated, so up we continued into the basin below Dumbell. There is somewhat of a faint climbers trail to the left of the creek that descends from the upper basin. Our plan was to drop gear at the base of Dumbell, go tag Greenwood, and come back and bivy on the summit of Dumbell.

 

The first part of the plan went mostly without a hitch, and both Scott and I were suitably impressed with the exposure and position of the ledge connecting the two objectives of the trip. Snow and ice gave an added measure of alpine flavor to this section, and made us briefly wish we had gaiters (sorry Gordo). The rest of the ascent of Greenwood was mostly a walk in the clouds, though they did part briefly on the summit. Fine tent sites are found on the ridge halfway up from the col, but we weren't in a position to take advantage of them. Turns out this was a good thing.

 

Retracing our steps back to our packs was pretty quick, and soon we were eyeing the route up Dumbell. Snow and ice made the normally solid class three a bit more challenging than expected with full packs, and Scott and I regrouped a couple hundred feet below the top to discuss. The forecasted (NWS) mostly sunny had never materialized that day (more like mostly cloudy), and things were supposed to be much worse the next with precip. The terrain between us and the summit was snowy and icy, and we were unsure that the summit was roomy enough for our tent (didn't look to be big enough from below). However, it was only 3 pm, and there was ample firewood in the basin below.....we dropped our packs and quickly scrambled the last bit to the top. One look at the snow filled single bivy site on top and we knew we had made the right call. Scott and I like each other well enough, but there is no reason to push it.

 

After about a half hour, Scott and I couldn't delay the descent any longer and off we went to collect our packs and reverse the 2500' down to the upper basin camp. This went better than expected through the snow covered talus and slippery heather and a couple hours later we were gathering firewood and setting up the tent next to a huge boulder at the end of the trail. The extra white gas we had packed for summit snow meltage made fire ignition in the face of a rain squall trivial. Time for the Canadian Hunter!

 

The next day dawned grey, windy, and snowy. Dumbell was in the clouds.

 

 

 

 

At the trail's end, Scott start up towards Dumbell (out of view to the right):

 

Crossing the very exposed ledge between Dumbell and Greenwood:

 

Unmapped tarn below Greenwood/Dumbell saddle:

 

Fernow and Seven Fingered Jack:

 

Scott heading back to Dumbell (over his head):

 

Reversing the key ledge:

 

Dumbell:

 

Scott approaching the summit of Dumbell:

 

The south side of Bonanza:

 

Greenwood from the summit of Dumbell:

 

Chiwawa:

 

Copper, Fernow, 7FJ (L-R):

 

Scott is thinking we made the right call:

 

Rain squall over Spider Meadow:

 

 

Camp in Phelps Basin:

 

 

 

A rainy Spider Meadow on the hike out:

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet, ice axe, crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the hundred highest crew

Edited September 30, 2013 by JasonG

[Rad]

Gorgeous photos! I love the feeling of ticking off a climbing goal just hours before the weather shuts things down. Congrats.

 

[mountainsandsound]

These pictures really set a mood. The dusting of snow, the foreboding clouds and threat of precip, low visibility, hunkered down by the fire. I can feel that fall in the alpine feeling at my desk. Thanks for the TR.

[ivan]

[bvl]

Love the photo of Fernow and 7 Fingered Jack!

[OlegV]

bringing whiskey definetly brings more colors to those kinds of trips great job!

[sepultura]

Great trip Jason, thanks for getting out with me at the end of the season. With this forecast maybe will be out on the skis soon!

All we needed was some 'Halen on a boom box to go with that Canadian Hunter!

[ZakG]

Looks like a nice trip. I really like the photo of Copper, Fernow and 7 Finger Jack.

[Off_White]

Beautiful, that looks like a very appealing trip.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Sweet! Thank you!

[JasonG]

You're welcome. I added some captions to the photos, although it sounds like most of you know what you are looking at.

 

You're right Scott, time to get the skis waxed!

[Bronco]

Nice work, even without gaiters!