Moderate and accessible routes in AK?

[bedellympian]

So I'm in Alaska for about a month visiting friends and family (mainly Fairbanks but I'll be in Anchorage for a week or more). I don't have a partner yet (anyone interested?) but I am interested in climbing something while I'm here.

 

Given my time and money I want something that I can do relatively quickly, without flying in. I am also relatively new to technical alpine climbing so it should probably be 5.9/AI3 or lower. I was thinking of something in the Chugach but maybe there are better objectives else where.

 

Any ideas? My window is July 6-20 but I can only take 3-5 days total.

 

Thanks!

[Mtguide]

Chugach would certainly be the most accessible from Anchorage,especially given your very short window of available time. Almost everything else is fly-in, unless you had the time for multi-day approach hikes.Get ahold of a copy of "Alaska: A Climbing Guide", by Michael Wood and Colby Coombs. The most complete resource for an overall perspective of routes and accessibility area by area, range by range. Everything there is big, it's not like going for weekend runs into the N. Cascades.

[John Frieh]

Everything there is big, it's not like going for weekend runs into the N. Cascades.

 

Yes it is!

 

Don't rule out flying in. Get your hands on Puryear's book and check out some of the moderates off the Pika glacier like Lost Marsupial on The Throne. Watching the weather can make a quick weekend in and out a possibility.

 

Chugach is a great recommendation also but a long drive if you're going to be in Fairbanks. I'd try and climb there while I was in ANC. PM wfinley on this page for some good routes and good beta

[kurthicks]

You might also check out the cragging at Hatcher Pass.

[wfinley]

I'm not too familiar with the climbing around Fairbanks. I know there is decent rock (by Ak road accessibility standards) but you'll have to deal with mega bugs and forest fires if you try to climb it in July and August. There is a rock guide here: https://sites.google.com/a/alaska.edu/alaska-alpine-club/rock-guide

 

As for Anchorage... If you're coming from the lower 48 and are used to good solid rock I would say abandon your desire to climb something technical. There is granite in the Talkeetnas (1.5 hrs N) but it is notoriously wet and loose. It's fun climbing but if you only have a few days I would suggest 3rd / 4th class scrambles in the Chugach instead. Long 3rd class day climbs like Rumble, Bold, Bashful or even the Suicides (20 minutes from downtown) are great fun and can be done solo. There are technical routes in the Chugach but for the most part the rock is horrid and hundreds of feet of loose 5.4 is only enjoyed by a select few.

 

You could fly into Little Switzerland or some place similar... But Alaskans tend to have more time than money so you're unlikely to find weekend climbers willing to drop $650. You're more likely to find climbers willing to slog for 20 days for $50.

 

Here are some links for you. Enjoy your visit!

 

Anchorage/Chugach:

http://www.summitpost.org/chugach-mountains/593532

http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.intro-region&regionid=142

http://trondsalaskaadventures.blogspot.com/

http://screeshark.blogspot.com/

 

Talkeetnas:

http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.intro-region&regionid=143

 

Anchorage rock guide:

http://www.alaskarockclimbing.com/

[bedellympian]

Hey guys,

 

Just wanted to say thanks for posting. The input was super helpful. I ended up trying to climb a peak in the Delta Range (you might have seen the TR on here about a month ago). Other than that I got busy and didn't do too much climbing. Looks like I'll be back next year in August for a bit, but hopefully one of these years I'll make it in April or May and have some real fun!

[Danager]

Does anyone have any information on this route?

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/giradelli/108226982

[WCC]

How much more information do you need? It's covered in Stan Justice's guidebook.

[JasonG]

This is all the information I needed:

 

"If you have any doubts about your ability to navigate through loose/grainy rock, vegetation, gravel, bad or sometimes no protection, and lots of lichen, do not attempt this route."

 

 

[Jake_Gano]

More on Prindle:

http://sethdadams.blogspot.com/2012/10/two-trips-to-prindle-sept-2012.html