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Danager

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Everything posted by Danager

  1. Anyone have any recent photos or info of how the TCs and Gerber sink are looking so far this year?
  2. looking for size 40.5-41 Fruit Boots
  3. How do the bugaboos usually look in late August? I've heard the glaciers are already pretty open and icey this year
  4. We planned on doing a push from curtis Rookie due to the rockfall falling off the thumb rock feature.
  5. Here was the route from our high camp on curtis, decided not to commit after watching perpetual rock and ice fall on and around the route all afternoon and into the night.
  6. The g3 saints would be perfect. That setup is pretty much what I'm looking for
  7. Title says it all, in the market for a lightweight touring setup for some ski mountaineering fun
  8. Any word on how the northside routes look? I'm particularly interested in the status of the carbon glacier
  9. Dropped a 13 CM BD Express ice screw marked with a dot of pink nail polish off of the runnels on Triple Couloirs on Dragontail. I know its an epic long shot, but if someone does find it and returns it, beer will be coming your way.
  10. Here is a cool little video my friend made that features Spokane. Climbing makes a sweet cameo about 2:10 in if you just want to fast forward to that.
  11. Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Date: 7/3/2014 Trip Report: On the 2nd of July my climbing partner and I decided to leave Spokane and head to Rainier for a little fun. We arrived in the park on Wednesday night and after a nice nap woke up to give the Kautz Glacier route a go on the 3rd of July The day started off in a cloud and we made great time up to Glacier Vista where we dropped down on to the Nisqually. Crossing the Nisqually was pretty straight forward and we decided to use the Fan as our point of access to the Wilson glacier. Above the Fan the snow was sand like and steep. I had to kick in deep steps on the traverse from fan to the Wilson. We made our first camp at 8,100 feet with some cool guys from Colorado and headed to bed early after brewing some water in preparation for a long summit day and carry over. At about 1:30 the alarm went off and we were off at 2:30. We dropped into the Kautz chute at around 5:30 AM right after some ice fall littered the chute. The Kautz glacier itself was a little spicey. Ice fall from the Kautz ice cliff was falling onto the line to the right so I elected to head up the middle. There were sporadic v threads on various columns from the ice and a 1 inch crust of wind slab along the whole glacier. Under the crust was another 1 inch of sand like snow followed by the bullet proof ice. Despite this the climbing was straight forward and fun. The top of the route traversed east toward the Ingraham before traversing all the way back toward the Kautz glacier to avoid opening crevasses. The long traverse as well as a long break caused us to hit the summit a little late at around 11 AM. Despite this we descended the DC and were back down at Camp Muir by 1:30 PM and back at the car at 4. A long second day, but a lot of fun for a 4th of July summit. Morning Fog [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10376817_10154312320830277_1019651450606221855_n.jpg[/img] The Fan [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10534491_10154312320715277_550401912688203581_n.jpg[/img] Steep snow above the fan [img:center]https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10501977_10154312320195277_5532738649739715139_n.jpg[/img] High Camp [img:center]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10306539_10154312319980277_467431414544690643_n.jpg[/img] 1st ice pitch on the Kautz [img:center]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10524353_10154312318115277_1404510095544960317_n.jpg[/img] View of Adams from high camp [img:center]https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10376903_10154305586300277_4135185621356342956_n.jpg?oh=7325169e564d9e2773a29d26d4f0a895&oe=5414FC8B[/img] Upper Kautz [img:center]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10456808_10154302848930277_8729337626095756591_n.jpg[/img] But, first let me take a selfie [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10513514_10154312317440277_4225070270943457948_n.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: 3 Ice screws for simul climbing / protecting the Kautz One 30 meter rope Standard Glacier Rack One technical hammer and one straight shafted ice axe. Approach Notes: Standard approach from Paradise, descended the DC
  12. Looking for an alpine partner this weekend on the west side. Looking to probably hit up the north ridge on mt baker. I have climbed the north ridge before as well as the Kautz on Rainier. PM me if interested.
  13. Does anyone have any information on this route? http://www.mountainproject.com/v/giradelli/108226982
  14. If this is around I could do 280. Where did you use it? How has it been handled? Has it ever been washed?
  15. after seeing the south side of the mountain and the almost scary dry conditions I was wondering what the whiteriver routes would look like...
  16. Is the Ingraham Glacier Direct in? The last trip report i read from December said that it wasn't
  17. Thanks a ton for the info guys!
  18. I was wondering if you needed any sort of permit to bivy on mt. Stuart during the summer. Cheers
  19. Selling 2x Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tools, brand new picks, pretty much brand new. Im looking to upgrading to something lighter. $110 each or $200 for both.
  20. Ya, if you have your route finding down / follow the boot pack Adams is pretty gentle and the South Spur route requires no technical skills besides the ability to arrest. I haven't been there this year, but is the road open to the cold springs campground? if so your approach is much shorter than in previous years.
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