[TR] Valdez, AK - 3/31/2013

[YocumRidge]

Trip: Valdez, AK -

 

Date: 3/31/2013

 

Trip Report:

I hear there is a warm rock to climb somewhere but who needs rock if there is ice and it is already April. You just have to get there and find out for yourself.

 

In the end of March my friend JR and I flew into the former part of the Russian empire which our tzars so ingeniously got rid off in the 19th century. In Anchorage, we had rented a clown car ($7/day) thanks to J. Frieh’s advise:

 

and made that famous 305 mile drive to Valdez. Sometimes on sheer ice while passing the rigs flipped over and sitting in the ditches off the Richardson hwy, then over the passes in the blizzard, but imagine that - we slid off the road only once the entire trip!

 

Matanuska glacier en route to Valdez:

 

“Light dusting of snow” as per the local Wx forecast was a recurrent theme and Valdez happened to get 4 feet of fresh over a few days we stayed there.

 

No shit Alaskan transportation and accommodation.

Please note: a U-haul. Ivan used to live in one of those for a week BITD on his way back from Denali :

 

Port of Valdez in between the snow dumps:

 

200 m ice routes 5 min from the hwy in the Keystone canyon: Bridalveil Falls, Simple Twist of Fate, Keystone Greensteps, although this time anything less than vertical was generously snow covered, so be prepared to climb steeper lines or do a lot of snow excavating. Pick your poison:

 

We ended up climbing the bluest ice visible from the road:

Horsetail Falls 80 m (2x)

The Bight 45 m (2x)

Bridalveil Falls 185 m

Hung Jury 55 m

 

Horsetail falls with the wind formed caves and umbrellas (belay from the car if you wish):

 

On the Horsetail falls:

 

JR on the Horsetail falls:

 

 

The Bight:

 

On the approach:

 

On the Bight:

 

JR on the Bight (weird under the tree crawling top out):

 

 

 

Bridalveil Falls (JR is at the base, for scale reference):

 

 

On the p1 to the first cave on the left (bolts):

 

Starting up the p2 curtain and traverse to the second cave on the right by the “Killer Pillar” (no bolts):

 

On the p3 to the second cave:

 

The grass is always greener, and the ice on the right side of the Killer Pillar seemed better. It was not. One screw was placed for extra style points.

 

JR starting up the Killer Pillar:

 

JR midway on the pillar:

 

On the easy top out (p5):

 

On the way down, we stopped at the cave and took a minute to explore it.

 

Why you need to go to Valdez:

 

Sunlight refraction:

 

Feu de Glace:

 

JR bouldering in the cave:

 

 

 

Hung Jury

 

No doubt, the best chunk of ice I ever climbed.

From the AlaskaIceClimbing.com: "This route consists of scoops, umbrellas, and bells that extend from base to top. These formations occur as a result of the unusual wind patterns in the area of this route that blow upward. As a result, ice conditions can vary on this route and one may be required to take a circuitous route to the top."

 

Due to its “circuitous” nature and continuous spindrifts, we broke it up in two pitches.

 

JR heading up the p1:

 

Can you see him?

 

"The circuitous route". Although Robert Frost is not my favorite poet, I find embarking on the figurate path away from the mainstream somewhat rewarding:

 

Getting ready for the next pitch:

 

The real deal:

 

 

The last day it was heavily snowing again so we went skiing in the Mineral Creek.

Thanks to the local heli ski guides who pointed out Wellness Center where you can rent any kind of skis for free and for as long as you need. No Nomics though.

 

 

At the Mineral Creek:

 

 

Wowie Zowzie – 1 hr ski from Valdez:

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Nomics and Cobras

 

Expect to make your own V-threads.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Alaska Airlines and clown car

[powderhound]

Looks way fun! Gotta make it up there next year. Is this ice usually in before November?

[ivan]

a russkaya in alaska, who'd a thunk it? super-trippy pix, yowza-yowza!

 

uhauls, the only way to dirtbag!

[dougd]

In the end of March my friend JR and I flew into the former part of the Russian empire which our tzars so ingeniously got rid off in the 19th century.

 

All for $15m USD as I recall. A pretty good deal...

 

Looks like a really fun trip Nastia. The pics are really cool. Thanks for posting.

 

d

[OlegV]

Great trip, Nastia! I bet there is ice right across the Bering channel! Now we are ready for Moonflower!

[Whatcomboy]

Excellent! That is some great country.

[YocumRidge]

It does not look like much was in before November last year, Bryan: http://forums.alaskaiceclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=789

 

A 19 mile wall will form up first I bet as the temps there stay way below than in Valdez:

 

We have also noticed a lot of long sick ice past the Thompson pass towards Glennallen: it was 5F there vs 30F in Valdez that day.

 

[wayne]

Thats a great report, Thanks !

[matt_warfield]

Yes, we natives (meaning nobody since we all came here across the Bering Strait or sailed in or rode horses from Mexico) made a great deal for Alaska but we all appreciate a great TR with excellent pics from folks riding the ice.

[John Frieh]

Looks way fun! Gotta make it up there next year. Is this ice usually in before November?

 

Depends on the year and how wet the summer was but yes late winter/early spring is usually better. If Valdez isn't in Nabesna is in for sure by November.

[mike1]

Stunning!

[Dasan]

Great running into you guys there at the pull out! Excellent to see other Portlanders coming up to enjoy all the goodness. Looks like you guys got after it!

And oh my, wasn't Wowie Zowie FAT!

Edited April 25, 2013 by Dasan

[YocumRidge]

Hi Dasan!

 

Likewise, it was nice meeting you in Keystone. Thanks for the V-threads.

 

Yep, Wowie Zowie was in fat but its left side was mercilessly avalanching and threatened to kill. The right side looked more user-friendly.