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Posted

Let me preface this by saying that I'm not an ice climber...

 

Question of the day: while reading the newest glossy, i glanced at an article on ice screw placement by Craig Leubben (sp?)...anyway, he says the best placement for a screw is at 15-20 degrees angling upwards!?! Why is that? My guess is to minimize a "prying" effect on the lip of the hole by the shaft of the screw...in effect, turning it into a tension only placement as opposed to a combined tension and shear problem. Is this right? Does anyone know?

 

 

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Posted

Tests confirmed that they should not be placed in the freezer? cantfocus.gifcantfocus.gif

 

Actually, he says that his test show they should be placed according to the diagram...

Posted

In response to

Poster: RuMR

Subject: Re: Ice Screw(ed)

 

Yeah, that was what i thought. The pic and text both say angling UPWARDS, though...

 

basically the back of the screw should be above the front of the screw, so I guess this could be called upwards, or downwards it's a matter of semantics. The head of the screw should be placed 15 degrees below perpendicular with the ice, this is to avoid fuckin' up the ice in a fall. The teeth on modern screws are sufficient for holding the screw in the ice. If the ice is bad then all bet are off though.

Posted

What the hell does a hard pull'n, fudge pack'n, nerves of steel, beoytch want to know about ice screws? It's like this, when your hands are frozen and your brow is sweating because you can't see your last screw - I'm just happy that thing doesn't fall out of my hand getting it started let alone the freaking angle. As in life, bury it to the hilt baby or tie it off.

Posted

He is saying place it 15 to 20 degrees angled up if the screw protrudes more than two inches from the ice, tie if off with a Spectra sling, and don't expect much from it. Or, if the ice is not solid, the screw doesn't have high-relief threads, or melting out is possible, set the screw perpendicular to the ice or even 15 degrees above the perpendicular line.

Posted
What the hell does a hard pull'n, fudge pack'n, nerves of steel, beoytch want to know about ice screws? It's like this, when your hands are frozen and your brow is sweating because you can't see your last screw - I'm just happy that thing doesn't fall out of my hand getting it started let alone the freaking angle.

 

loved your response, ropegun, but i find your pet names for rumr "curious" to say the least. Eyecrazy.gif

 

here's my advice: place old screws with the cranks upslope; new ones cranks down. winky.gif i haven't placed that many screws myself, but it would seem that history has proven both methods to some extent or another.

 

As in life, bury it to the hilt baby or tie it off.

 

hmm ... laugh_2.gif

Posted

Some guy at REI did some testing on pull out strength. They found that placing the screws angled below horizontal worked the best. He also noted that some screws they thought were in marginal ice held better then the screws in hard ice.

If it is horizontal or above the screw deforms the ice and pops out.

I just happy to get the damn things in. fruit.gif The non-express screws are twice the fun. So much more fun then placing a cam or nut.

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