RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Let me preface this by saying that I'm not an ice climber... Question of the day: while reading the newest glossy, i glanced at an article on ice screw placement by Craig Leubben (sp?)...anyway, he says the best placement for a screw is at 15-20 degrees angling upwards!?! Why is that? My guess is to minimize a "prying" effect on the lip of the hole by the shaft of the screw...in effect, turning it into a tension only placement as opposed to a combined tension and shear problem. Is this right? Does anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 If you are a begginer ice climber - place all screws in your kitchen freezer. PS tests have been confirmed that they should actually not be placed in this manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 (edited) Don't you mean angling downward towards the point of force. Old skool was angling upward. Edited December 5, 2002 by Highlander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 Yeah, that was what i thought. The pic and text both say angling UPWARDS, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 Tests confirmed that they should not be placed in the freezer? Actually, he says that his test show they should be placed according to the diagram... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Just place em straight in and call it good. Toprope anchor screws: angled back to deal with blackbody meltout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 The idea is that angling the screws down lets the threads resist the pull. Otherwise the ice can shatter more easily, decreasing strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/ice/bd-test.html These are with BD screws only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 In response to Poster: RuMR Subject: Re: Ice Screw(ed) Yeah, that was what i thought. The pic and text both say angling UPWARDS, though... basically the back of the screw should be above the front of the screw, so I guess this could be called upwards, or downwards it's a matter of semantics. The head of the screw should be placed 15 degrees below perpendicular with the ice, this is to avoid fuckin' up the ice in a fall. The teeth on modern screws are sufficient for holding the screw in the ice. If the ice is bad then all bet are off though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 What the hell does a hard pull'n, fudge pack'n, nerves of steel, beoytch want to know about ice screws? It's like this, when your hands are frozen and your brow is sweating because you can't see your last screw - I'm just happy that thing doesn't fall out of my hand getting it started let alone the freaking angle. As in life, bury it to the hilt baby or tie it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 http://www.hi.is/~haraldg/isskrufu_paelingar.html <-- more spray food. I am with ropegoon2003. I just bury the bitch to the hilt or tie it off mostly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 RG000.5 HA HA Freakin' HA!!! You making the gym tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EV Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 He is saying place it 15 to 20 degrees angled up if the screw protrudes more than two inches from the ice, tie if off with a Spectra sling, and don't expect much from it. Or, if the ice is not solid, the screw doesn't have high-relief threads, or melting out is possible, set the screw perpendicular to the ice or even 15 degrees above the perpendicular line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 What the hell does a hard pull'n, fudge pack'n, nerves of steel, beoytch want to know about ice screws? It's like this, when your hands are frozen and your brow is sweating because you can't see your last screw - I'm just happy that thing doesn't fall out of my hand getting it started let alone the freaking angle. loved your response, ropegun, but i find your pet names for rumr "curious" to say the least. here's my advice: place old screws with the cranks upslope; new ones cranks down. i haven't placed that many screws myself, but it would seem that history has proven both methods to some extent or another. As in life, bury it to the hilt baby or tie it off. hmm ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 RuMR - absolutely wouldn't miss it. tlg - RuMR is Da Man. And what is so funny??????????? hehehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 RG you need to fix your autosig...unless your implying that your waistline is growing!! HA HA HA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Rumr is Da Man? Now that is funny shit. Maybe Da Little Man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 5, 2002 Author Share Posted December 5, 2002 Listen you Kate-Moss knockoff...go sink your little ice screw into an ice cube...tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 Some guy at REI did some testing on pull out strength. They found that placing the screws angled below horizontal worked the best. He also noted that some screws they thought were in marginal ice held better then the screws in hard ice. If it is horizontal or above the screw deforms the ice and pops out. I just happy to get the damn things in. The non-express screws are twice the fun. So much more fun then placing a cam or nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 ooh; is there gonna be a fight here? 'cause if there is, i wanna watch!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 TLG = Voyeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 nothing wrong with a little watchin' is there? in fact, sometimes i wanna watch so bad i'll even skip out on doing something really cool to go to the climbing gym on my day off from work ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 TLG - nothing quite like those two stainless steel benwaw balls is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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