Vantage Sketchiness?

[wetslide]

Anyone experienced this? Just a common perceptive out in the community. Could very much be false. I've only been there once for a photo shoot.

Are there private camping sites? Where is camping allowed?

How's the climbing? Classics?

 

Alternatively, Anyone know any good crag destination in central Washington that aren't too busy during the weekend? East of Leavenworth/ Cle Elum preferred.

 

I know Leavenworth well, but we're going to be chilling there next weekend for Oktoberfest.

 

 

[ivan]

overflowing shitters, needles in the poo-pile, tp blowing in the breeze, tweakers working up and down the road in beaters, chossy towers you could probably pull down on yerself if you really wanted to, what's not to love?

 

worth a visit every now and again i reckon, and it's tough finding any cragging site in the northwest that isn't trolled by homo methneckus

[keenwesh]

I like Tieton better, but I've only spent 2 days apiece at each area.

[kevino]

Everything about tieton is better. Less people, better rock, more styles of routes and just as good of weather (usually). Only difference is the climbing areas are spread out along the canyon.

[obwan]

This time of year, Mazama is winding down - lots of good climbing and free places to camp. it's just a bit longer drive, ie. two hours from Leavenworth.

And Tieton is an awesome place.

 

There are various threads on this site regarding Vantage, pro and con. Listen to Ivan.

 

If you absolutely feel the need - there is camping on the west side of the Columbia at Wanapum Dam State Park, or a commercial nice spot at the boat ramp area, just before crossing the Columbia off of I-90. Cheers! Better to have a few at Ocktoberfest.

[wetslide]

I will take this all into consideration. I will be climbing clean granite.

[matt_warfield]

I have climbed around 100 days at Vantage without pulling off a hold. There is an advantage to having 1000 people do it before you. I have only seen one rattlesnake. A 60 deg. day basking in the sun at Vantage on a wall not occupied by the hordes (e.g. Sunshine Wall) is to be treasured.

 

I agree that it is good to avoid concert weekends and I have had may car broken into when the lot was vacant but that rarely happens. Do a day trip or camp elsewhere.

 

I also lost my camera once, recovered it and found pictures of topless and mooning women on it so I have a soft spot for the place.

 

It is more solid than is complained about and has many areas with solitude. Check the book and don't follow the sheep.

 

And support efforts to put a permanent crapper at the parking lot.

Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield

[telemarker]

 

I also lost my camera once, recovered it and found pictures of topless and mooning women on it so I have a soft spot for the place.

 

 

I don't remember seeing this TR!

[matt_warfield]

I lost my camera, posted a notice on the bulletin board next to the crapper, got a response, recovered the camera, and got soft porn as a benefit. Apparently, if you have a lost camera, women who are tired of climbing are available for voyeur. Canadians were involved I am told.

 

I also did some climbing.

 

I hope you will see this as a TR because sometimes things happen on climbing trips that transcend climbing.

[denalidave]

Hey Sobo what time is it? Time to topple a Vantage tower and walk away from it???

[matt_warfield]

It usually takes a jack like has happened before at Vantage. Yes towers fall and God forbid if there was any loose rock doing alpine rock.

[yikes]

and got soft porn as a benefit.

No pics = it didn't happen....

Edited October 5, 2012 by yikes

[matt_warfield]

I could be arrested or embarrass some folks.

 

Of course granite is more solid but how can thousands of climbers and hundreds of routes be wrong? To each your own but hundreds will be at Vantage this weekend having an absolute ball.

Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield

[obwan]

and got soft porn as a benefit.

No pics = it didn't happen....

 

Wow! Sounds like one of my trips to J.T. where I stumbled across a very cool photo shoot = lingere,etc; and no camera.

 

At least you have proof, but may go down on Voyeurism.

[matt_warfield]

The mind is incredible, but the camera never fails. I'm glad you got the lingerie image, mine was sans lingerie. but not in person so we are even.

Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield

[cascadesdj]

I could be arrested or embarrass some folks.

 

Of course granite is more solid but how can thousands of climbers and hundreds of routes be wrong? To each your own but hundreds will be at Vantage this weekend having an absolute ball.

 

Hmm. I was at Vantage Saturday and we were at Riverview Park, Corn Wall, and Hen House. We saw a total of, at most 15 people there. We never waited for a route, walked up to every one we wanted to climb and set off. I've spent over 400 days at Vantage over the past 17 years. I've never waited for routes. Also, you don't have to move far for the next route--it's like an outdoor gym. Often you can climb there in mid-winter when everyone everywhere else is wet/cold. There are classics there, but you have to know the area because there are some crappy routes too. Wear a helmet, use a grigri, ask around and just climb the great routes, of which there are plenty. Or stay home and leave the place to me.

[stevetimetravlr]

Vantage is fun, but it's basalt. I like to stop there for a afternoon, but then keep going another hour to Banks Lake and get me some granite.

[matt_warfield]

I could be arrested or embarrass some folks.

 

Of course granite is more solid but how can thousands of climbers and hundreds of routes be wrong? To each your own but hundreds will be at Vantage this weekend having an absolute ball.

 

Hmm. I was at Vantage Saturday and we were at Riverview Park, Corn Wall, and Hen House. We saw a total of, at most 15 people there. We never waited for a route, walked up to every one we wanted to climb and set off. I've spent over 400 days at Vantage over the past 17 years. I've never waited for routes. Also, you don't have to move far for the next route--it's like an outdoor gym. Often you can climb there in mid-winter when everyone everywhere else is wet/cold. There are classics there, but you have to know the area because there are some crappy routes too. Wear a helmet, use a grigri, ask around and just climb the great routes, of which there are plenty. Or stay home and leave the place to me.

 

I couldn't have said it better myself. Vantage has wonderful weather, lots of routes, and all you have to do is avoid the most popular areas, be careful placing gear as the rock is soft, and have as much fun as your body will allow.

 

And doing the manly granite alpine thing on N. Ridge of Stuart, I nearly pulled a 200 boulder down on myself. Don't make Vantage the whipping boy of climbing.

Edited October 8, 2012 by matt_warfield

[Bronco]

I've only been there once for a photo shoot.

 

I also lost my camera once, recovered it and found pictures of topless and mooning women on it so I have a soft spot for the place.

 

Are you sure it wasn't wetslide?

[plaisirclimbr]

I just wish you wet-siders would call the area by its actual name (Frenchman Coulee). There's actually no climbing at Vantage that I know of - not even choss-fests. Do you say you're going to Terrebonne when you're actually going to Smith? Vegas when you're going to Red Rocks? etc. etc. Frenchman coulee (not "Vantage") IS a wonderful place to climb, especially during the cooler months.

[xhen]

I just wish you wet-siders would call the area by its actual name (Frenchman Coulee). There's actually no climbing at Vantage that I know of - not even choss-fests. Do you say you're going to Terrebonne when you're actually going to Smith? Vegas when you're going to Red Rocks? etc. etc. Frenchman coulee (not "Vantage") IS a wonderful place to climb, especially during the cooler months.

 

That's Freedomman Coulee. 'Murika!

 

[Drederek]

I just wish you wet-siders would call the area by its actual name (Frenchman Coulee). There's actually no climbing at Vantage that I know of - not even choss-fests. Do you say you're going to Terrebonne when you're actually going to Smith? Vegas when you're going to Red Rocks? etc. etc. Frenchman coulee (not "Vantage") IS a wonderful place to climb, especially during the cooler months.

Occasionally and yes quite often.

[matt_warfield]

I just wish you wet-siders would call the area by its actual name (Frenchman Coulee). There's actually no climbing at Vantage that I know of - not even choss-fests. Do you say you're going to Terrebonne when you're actually going to Smith? Vegas when you're going to Red Rocks? etc. etc. Frenchman coulee (not "Vantage") IS a wonderful place to climb, especially during the cooler months.

 

I did that for a long time before I acquiesced to the guidebook. Actually it has had many names over the years including I believe Washington Desert in the early years. But how many people including locals know that the whole area was created by a massive flood millions of years ago.

 

Probably Raindawg but he has a conflict of interest with bolts versus science.

 

And I agree with Drederek, "Boulder" can mean Eldo, Flatirons, or Boulder Canyon or any number of areas near, "Bishop" can mean Buttermilks or Owen's Gorge, etc. etc. Perhaps instead of a nickname we should provide GPS coordinates and take even more creativity out of the climbing experience.

Edited October 9, 2012 by matt_warfield

[mattp]

Most of the routes are in Echo Basin - not Frenchman Coulee.

[matt_warfield]

Thanks, we didn't need Raindawg. The point is that most of us just want a common moniker for areas instead of exact geography and geology and history.

 

How did Index and Leavenworth and Erie and Squamish and Smith and Yosemite get their names? Most climbers just want to know where to go and go climbing.

Edited October 9, 2012 by matt_warfield