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xhen

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Everything posted by xhen

  1. The Zodiac with a twist

    I first learned of these guys, mainly Craig, when Chris Kalous interviewed Craig on The Enormocast. Unbelievable story, and Craig tells it well. When it posted it was May, and they were gearing up for June/July rematch with Yosemite. Freakin awesome. http://enormocast.com/episode-11-what-has-two-arms-one-leg-and-climbs-like-a-mofo-craig-demartino/
  2. Vantage Sketchiness?

    That's Freedomman Coulee. 'Murika!
  3. Managing Contact Lenses in the Backcountry?

    Any issues with this in the backcountry/altitute/whenever? I'm a corrective lens wearer, and for years would wear my contacts (Now the Acuve Oasys) multiple days. Few years ago found I just can't do it anymore. After a night, one of my eyes just starts to feel grainy and hurt. So now I just carry case, small solution, and glasses (back at camp). But, I dream of Lasik every day. Someday.
  4. Lightest, Largest, Locker

    I have two Attache 3D and I can't get over how awesome they are. I've determined that I will slowly (they are expensive) buy more. They are the ones I reach for all the time and am sad when I've used them all. I am in love with them. Light, smooth operation, tells you if it's locked visible.
  5. Orthopedic Physician Associates at Seattle Swedish does sports medicine. Wife used to work there and has been a patient there. Dr. Manke is legit for foot/ankle
  6. Mountain House at Costco

    Still at Kirkland Costco. Comes out to like $4.29/ea, 4 types. Couldn't con the wife into it, and my season has been a bit slow. And while you're there you can get enormous amounts of Kirkland brand hard alcohol!
  7. I just remember heavy pack, baking sun, seemingly endless hopping, jumping, scrambling. But I think our positive memories of the way out was largely due to snow covered dead-fall. Ah well, good on ya. We did the same, ventured into talus on the way out once, realized our mistake, dropped lower and picked up speed (and more post holes). The talus seems to be the preferred route. Perhaps next time i'll bring trail runners...
  8. Nice! We were up there over Memorial to look at stuff, eyed this route, but didn't feel we could move fast enough. The approach was a bit fun--yet we couldn't figure out if the proper way was the cairns over the God-forsaken talus or the bushwhack near the creek?
  9. Life insurance for a climber??

    State Farm, after climbing. They asked me an inordinate amount of questions, and I made the gal asking ask her manager a few clarifying questions. Asked about gear and crap. They do differentiate between rock and mountain. The only thing that it made different was the cost. My premium is insane compared to my wifes. But I've already told her, if she eats it, I'm going on a climbing trip with my brother to mourn. They didn't mention restrictions eclipsing after two years, but they did say if I don't climb for a calendar year (Which may happen in the future), I can get it removed. Then if I climb after, I'm still fine. I guess. When that time comes, I'm going to make sure my ass is still covered if i finally punch the ticket. I'm with sobo. Declare it, be honest, otherwise they will screw you when you really don't want to be screwed.
  10. Life insurance for a climber??

    Should add I have State Farm too. And i'm covered if I take a whipper and deck or if I eat it in a crevasse or avvy.
  11. Life insurance for a climber??

    Did the same thing last year. Had a lot of people scoff at it, but bottom line is, if I eat it, I want my wife to be taken care of. Through my insurance company, they said if I don't climb for a calendar year, the added clause gets removed and lowers the price substantially. I can then climb after that, and it won't affect the premium. I figure it'll happen sometime. I do know that American Alpine Club has a partner that offers life insurance. I never looked at rates, because I saw it right after I signed my policy. I'd say check that out, and perhaps other folks have some ideas.
  12. 04.07.12 Accident at Exit 38

    Partner and I were over near Deception for our first time out this season. My brother heard of a SAR call at 38 and was calling/texting me trying to make sure it wasn't us. Didn't see/hear anything, so I figured it was off near Far Side area. Hope she gets better soon.
  13. I've got a bunch of these and also really like them. +1. These are boss. Good price. Gotten most of mine second hand for even better price.
  14. getting rid of the softshell

    Awesome, thanks Dane. Always appreciate your input.
  15. getting rid of the softshell

    I don't want to get off topic too far, but I'm curious about this comment. I use a nano pullover in my layering system (base layer + r1 + nano or whatever. I'm a patagonia whore). I suppose my biggest concern on putting the jacket on high is melting it? But would it increase loft? Is this good practice for synthetic jackets (I only own a FF Daybreak jacket I usually use for around camp. Too warm for this area most the time)?
  16. Polartec Neoshell anyone?

    Any word on who's carrying it? I think Westcomb and Rab, if I remember Dane's stuff right? I see that the new GTX stuff is being carried by Patagonia (at least it's better to H2Crap) and others. But, I'm a Polartec (and Dane) fan and have been eyeing this for a bit...
  17. Confirmed Grizzly bear sightening in NOCA

    I guess we need to stop reporting bear sightings and clean up any bear scat/paw prints we find. There's a saying in the old country: shoot, shovel, and shut up
  18. [TR] Alaska Range - West Butt 5/15/2011

    That first picture is so awesome. I was going to ask how many books you read, but you answered that . Way to get after it ! I'll look at your pretty pictures from my home office...
  19. Kiss my Discovery Pass

    Way to stick it to the man/the tool/pine fuzz, etc. Was out at the Far Side parking lot at x38 on Monday, and they had a drop box with envelopes for the $10/day fee. Haven't been anywhere else where it's required, but in at least one spot, you could do fine. Anyone know if that guy in the chi-mo van parked near the USFS road turn off needs a pass? Does he have some sign taped to his forehead?
  20. My brother has: http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=61&p_id=2303179. Un-lined, but super light. A similar thread on MountainProject (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lightweight-compressible-wind-shirts/107131469) led me to the Camp Magic Jacket: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/apparel/magic-jacket-1668.asp. Used it last weekend and dig it. I did get it on super sale.
  21. Mikey won in my book with his awesome stuff in the Yosemite Nat Geo article.
  22. Alpine - Approaching Liberty Bell Scenic - Lane Peak
  23. I talked to a party that did the SW Couloir on Friday. Said it was pretty sketch and spotty as far as snow was concerned, making it a little exciting.
  24. [TR] Liberty Bell - Beckey Route 7/4/2011

    Was up there on Friday. I'm super jealous you saw goats . Great job!
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