Reversino or other small belay device

[danmcph]

I know they used to make a reversino but I can't find one. Who else makes an belay device for skinny cord use only that auto locks when belaying a 2nd?

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I can't recall the stats but I know my Kong Ghost (which is basically new and I'd sell) and Cassin Piu 2 both handle skinny ropes a tad better than the BD and Petzl Reverso (haven'tried the newest version of either though). This is just based on my experience though and I haven't used either one a ton with really skinny twins, they may or may not be rated as such.

[genepires]

I have one of the old reversino's and I think it is kinda hard to use even on ropes it is designed for. I seem to remember it "sticking" when using it to belay. No idea about newer versions. If you really want a reversino, PM me and I will give you mine.

[danmcph]

What would be the best device for using 8MM ropes etc in this setup?

[Dannible]

The atc guide and reverso 3/4 both do the job. I have used an old reverso on 7.8mm and up for a long time, and just add a biner to the rope side of the system (or you could just use the fattest biner you could find). The newer ones have high friction mode which pinches the ropes a bit more and make this unnecessary.

[Buckaroo]

I like the Reversino

 

here's the breakdown

 

Reversino----- 2 oz.----- rope 7.5-8.2

 

Reverso 2----- 3 oz.----- rope 8 - 11

 

Reverso 3----- 2.75 oz.----- rope 7.5-11

 

Reverso 4----- 2 oz.----- rope 7.5-11

 

ATC guide (2nd gen)----- 3.1 oz----- rope 7.7-11

 

The new Reverso is the lightest

 

the old Reversino and Reverso were specific to rope size but I think they are smoother. Especially with 10.5-11 ropes the old Reverso is better. 10.5 or larger is just not smooth in the new one.

 

the Reverso 3 and 4 are the same device mechanically, the 4 is just lighter.

 

All these devices work much better with a perfect round profile beaner like the Petzl Attache. If you have a problem it's probably because of the wrong beaner. This is especially true when belaying the follow on auto lock.

 

on rappel or lead belay you can flip the old reversos around to alter friction amount.

 

don't even get me started about the new gri-gri, do not like it.

 

 

[Ed_Hobbick]

What is different about it compared to the old one? The gri gri that is.

 

What about that little dmm device for rappelling and using a munter for belaying?

 

Edited May 21, 2012 by Ed_Hobbick

[Buckaroo]

What is different about it compared to the old one? The gri gri that is.

 

What about that little dmm device for rappelling and using a munter for belaying?

 

The new gri-gri is not near as smooth, especially on a 10.5 rope. Couple weeks back I was using a 9.4 with the new gri-gri, it works best with about that size. I was top roping solo and lowering off. I had just chalked my hands and got some chalk on the rope below the device. When I went to lower it got really bad. First it was locked up, then when I pulled the lever almost all the way back it suddenly slipped way down the rope. So I let off a little and it immediately locked up.

 

It got better once I got past the chalked area and it cleaned out from the device but it still wasn't near as smooth as the 1st gen.

 

the DMM is the bugette, for 5mil tech cord, sort of scary small. I think the OP was talking about auto-locking devices.

[billcoe]

The Dmm Bugette weighs about what a piece of light tinfoil does and works that size. (7.5mm min)

 

http://www.amazon.com/DMM-Bugette-by/dp/B000T034ZE

 

When I bought my 9.1 I bought 2 and clipped them to the rope bag. Since then, other devices are able to handle that sized rope better. The newer BD ATC guide has the autolocking thing, for instance, and is an excellent device which goes down to 7.7mm

 

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-ATC-Device-Assorted/dp/B000T9FBEM/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1337606506&sr=1-2-spell

[montypiton]

mammut makes a device similar to the atc-guide & reverso, but weighs less and costs about half ($16) available online. works well with my 8mm twins; I highly recommend them... typically available on ebay

 

-Haireball

[Nick_Hall]

Mammut makes two. the Bionic, which has the same geometry as the atc-guied and I think that is what montypiton is taking about. They make the "smart" (smart alpine 7.5-9.5mm rope) as well. the smart has a pinch mechanism utilising a carabiner rather than the "S" friction of the ATC. I find smart to be bulky and not as smooth as an atc/reverso, but the guys I know who have theme seem to love them.

 

Has anyone used the mad rock "Mad Lock" or "Aviator"? Both look interesting...

[Coldfinger]

Bugette is sweet and works well on 9.5mm.

[bearbreeder]

i use the alpine smart on 8mm doubles/twins ... it works just fine ... the assisted locking feature is nice considering rockfall and for rappels ...

 

 

[thomhanks]

I have a reverso3 and have noticed some wear on the inside where the rope passes through and it seems to be sharpening edges to an extent, this has also happened to a friends reverso3. I have enjoyed using the device but am also looking at a new one to make this my spare. I was wondering if anybody had information on this wear happening on the reverso3 device and its wear on ropes.

[edwardsm]

you may be able to find the Mammut Bionic for cheap under its old name, the Vader Alpine...