AllYouCanEat Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 http://www.king5.com/topstories/10002071_LO0903climbers.html I never like to hear this type of news... Quote
Tommy Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 When will the news media get it right???? The other “Hiker” on the scene first was John Colver of American Alpine Institute, a fellow guide and good friend of mine. What the news media fails to indicate that if he was not there more than one would likely be dead or in a lot worse shape. Anyway, I left a message with John and as soon as I talk to him, I will provide more detail. Good Job to John and all the other AAI and Rescue Staff involved. Tommy Quote
Yahoo_sucks Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 http://seattlep-i.nwsource.com/local/37533_accid03ww.shtml Quote
Tommy Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 I just got of the phone with John Colver (the guide from American Alpine Institute who was first on the scene of the accident). We had a brief discussion about the incident and here is what he told me. At about 8600’ just below the saddle (at 9000’) on the Coleman Glacier, there was an icy section on the route. One of the climbers slipped and fell into a crevasse. The rest of the party was unable and/or failed to arrest the fall, and as a result all 4 were drug into the crevasse. John and his two clients arrived on the scene approximately 30 minutes after the fall. The deceased victim was still alive when John got to him. John began rescue breathing for him but to no avail. The victim suffered massive head injuries, and died shortly thereafter. Quote
Dru Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 The worst thing about dying in the mountains is having people say stupid things about you after you are dead. looks like Mom also knows nothing about mountaineering: Hiker who died on mountain was ill-prepared: mother KAMLOOPS (CHNL) — The mother of the 43-year-old man who died on Mount Baker on Sunday says her son was ill-prepared to be hiking on a glacier. Mount Baker hikers' names released Evelyn Ewan of Kamloops says her son Glynn had no previous experience climbing glaciers and shouldn't have been taken onto such a dangerous glacier. "If he had known better operating procedures, if he had been a hiker, when the head man slipped, Glynn would have known to either disconnect the rope or not try and hold on and hold him, which he did. And then of course when he couldn't hold him and it gave way, it just propelled him right into the sharp ice and smashed his chest." Ewan, who fell to his death while climbing Mount Baker with three other people, grew up in Kamloops and attended the 25-year reunion of his high school last month. Evelyn Ewan says he hopes her son's body can be recovered soon from Mount Baker. Inclement weather has hindered recovery efforts on the mountain. She said her son's employer has offered funding to help recover his body from the 2,580-metre level. "My son's company, Francis Foods, [is] going to pay for a private recovery," she said. "That way it would give them some personnel to try to do it again today. We don't know if by the time we get all the wheels in motion they can still get it done today. But, if not today, it will be first thing tomorrow morning." Quote
G_Man Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 Didn't these people have any clue? Did they even have crampons and an axe to arrest the fall? Quote
Dru Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 Moral of the story, if you are in conditions where you cant self arrest you should probably either unrope or place pro. Quote
terrible_ted Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 I'm gonna start practicing disconnecting the rope. it's obvious that seconds count... -t Quote
Kyle Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 So true Dru... And sometimes, believe it or not, it's OK to back off from a climb in the face of icy conditions. Just because you're wearing crampons doesn't mean you're secure on ice, and high up on Baker isn't really where anyone should be taking their first steps. There's no shame in waiting until next year, to return & do the route in more pleasant and safer early-season conditions. Quote
Dru Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 "Disconnecting the rope" - maybe she read Touching The Void?? Quote
Buleh Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 Did the accident occur on the Coleman - Demming route? An earlier news report indicated that the accident happened as members of the party were ascending an ice cliff. For that matter, how is the Coleman - Demming route at this time? Quote
Kyle Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 I read that they were just below the 9000' saddle, which sounds a lot like the C-D route. The "ice cliff" they mentioned is probably one of the steeper sections there below the saddle. I was there 2 weeks ago & didn't see any major ice in this area; it sounds like it's melted off & iced up a lot since then. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 4, 2001 Posted September 4, 2001 Rope Disconnectors are cheap! I got mine for less than 3 dollars and very multi use tools. Eating opening cans etc Sorry about those dudes up there......... Quote
lizard_brain Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 Just curious - was the guy who died of head injuries wearing a helmet? Quote
Juneriver Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 Didn't you guys see Vertical Limit?.... Every good climber would know to cut the rope. Quote
PackOnMyBack Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 Because he suffered "massive head injuries" chances are good that he wasn't wearing a helmet. Doubtful if I would have been wearing a helmet on that route either. Should a "hiker" be climbing the C-D route at this time of year? (or any time?) How did he end up on the mountain with no experience? Be careful who you climb with, know your limits, and don't think that turning back short of the summit makes you any less of a person. It may keep you alive. Quote
G_Man Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 No doubt Dru...a screw or two could have prevented a world of hurt. Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 Armchair quarterbacking never goes anywhere. A few climbing friends have died because of just plain old mountain stuff. And then everyone gathers around to spew their high and mighty hindsight only to watch those same loud mouths make even worse mistakes. Climbing is dangerous. No excuses, No warnings. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2001: Armchair quarterbacking never goes anywhere. A few climbing friends have died because of just plain old mountain stuff. And then everyone gathers around to spew their high and mighty hindsight only to watch those same loud mouths make even worse mistakes. Climbing is dangerous. No excuses, No warnings. So true Quote
Doug Posted September 5, 2001 Posted September 5, 2001 It's true. In a situation like this, where there has been inaccurate media coverage, it's good if the facts can come out and we can look at these facts and learn something. That's what accident reviews are for. Unfortuneately the parties mistakes are often exposed in the process. It's never a comfortable position to be in when a mass audience sees where you may have screwed up. Sometimes the audience does feel the need to spew their wisdom forth and let everyone know how great they are based on how stupid you were. A forum such as this one loses it's effectiveness when this occurs. RGY2K+1 was right. Climbing is dangerous. Mistakes and accidents do happen. Learning from them is good. Quote
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