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[TR] the tooth - east face 2/4/2012

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Trip: the tooth - east face

 

Date: 2/4/2012

 

Trip Report:

i have not seen much gibberish about this route so here you go. marko and i totally wasted a t-shirt rock climbing day on the shady, cold and windy east face of da mighty toof. an attempt on the 28th was aborted due to sloth.

 

1. climb the chimney/gully weakness located approx. 300' left of the guidebook start. a piece of old 11mm rope is visible about 50' off the deck. approx. 60m leads to an alder bush below a short steep headwall flanked by corners.

2. climb the corner of your choice. we climbed the easier appearing corner on the right to an ice/snice tongue leading in approx. 50m to a tree belay. route joins regular east face here.

3. a full 60m of ice/snice and tricky dinking leads to a sheltered gear belay on the left side of the obvious chimney.

4. climb chimney, find your way over or around the roof, and continue up more chimney/gully to the summit.

 

every pitch was great fun. crux for us was pitch 4. maybe m5/m6 in the conditions we found. chug that warm mug of donkey semen and get on it. a highly recommended route.

 

 

Gear Notes:

gear to 3.5-4", a couple kb, a couple stubbies, a snarg/hog/or spectre.

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i'm sure they didn't want any cinematic evidence as the animal rights folks would frown on their methods.

 

nice work gents. sounds like sustained fun.

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great job men, i believe that face should get more attention as there is some good climbing on it. although a bit runout for some peoples taste

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It's a fun rock climb in summer also... but I think the only good pro exists when the rock is frozen together...

 

Thanks for posting a report on a little-climbed gem!

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Yea. Interested to see a picture with your line, for this and your Chair climb too.

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...the only good pro exists when the rock is frozen together...

Very true

 

This climb's been on my list for a while now, nice FA Jim! Did you guys enter the gully from the left or the right?

 

Lower pitch and a half reaches normal east face ramp:

P1030546line.JPG

 

2nd pitch:

P1030572small.JPG

 

2nd pitch:

P1030576small.JPG

 

Top of 3rd:

P1030578small.JPG

 

Start of 4th (chimney):

P1030579small.JPG

 

Rolf smoked the delicate cruxes of course!

 

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great job men, i believe that face should get more attention as there is some good climbing on it. although a bit runout for some peoples taste

Hey Mike, I got our pin back from 10+ years ago or whenever the hell that was

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Rolf's 'stache in the fourth photo reminds me of the Swedish Chef. bork bork bork.

 

Nice work guys; glad someone got after it in the alpine!

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Rolf's 'stache in the fourth photo reminds me of the Swedish Chef.

 

Ha. Missed that the first time.

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Hey Mark, I've only been up the regular route via the ramp. Your new start looks sick. I guess you're getting to know that face pretty good. Next time get some video of the Rat style. The Rat/E$ route on Chair looks interesting, no?

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Hey Mark, I've only been up the regular route via the ramp. Your new start looks sick. I guess you're getting to know that face pretty good. Next time get some video of the Rat style. The Rat/E$ route on Chair looks interesting, no?

 

"only" ha ha

 

Si senor, wanna give it a go? (Not this weekend though...)

Edited by Marko

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Hey Mike, I got our pin back from 10+ years ago or whenever the hell that was on one of my many failled attempts!!

 

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