[TR] the tooth - east face 2/4/2012

[rat]

Trip: the tooth - east face

 

Date: 2/4/2012

 

Trip Report:

i have not seen much gibberish about this route so here you go. marko and i totally wasted a t-shirt rock climbing day on the shady, cold and windy east face of da mighty toof. an attempt on the 28th was aborted due to sloth.

 

1. climb the chimney/gully weakness located approx. 300' left of the guidebook start. a piece of old 11mm rope is visible about 50' off the deck. approx. 60m leads to an alder bush below a short steep headwall flanked by corners.

2. climb the corner of your choice. we climbed the easier appearing corner on the right to an ice/snice tongue leading in approx. 50m to a tree belay. route joins regular east face here.

3. a full 60m of ice/snice and tricky dinking leads to a sheltered gear belay on the left side of the obvious chimney.

4. climb chimney, find your way over or around the roof, and continue up more chimney/gully to the summit.

 

every pitch was great fun. crux for us was pitch 4. maybe m5/m6 in the conditions we found. chug that warm mug of donkey semen and get on it. a highly recommended route.

 

 

Gear Notes:

gear to 3.5-4", a couple kb, a couple stubbies, a snarg/hog/or spectre.

[Pete_H]

What, no helmet cam vid?

[lunger]

i'm sure they didn't want any cinematic evidence as the animal rights folks would frown on their methods.

 

nice work gents. sounds like sustained fun.

[scottgg]

very cool!

[kukuzka1]

great job men, i believe that face should get more attention as there is some good climbing on it. although a bit runout for some peoples taste

[dfrost]

It's a fun rock climb in summer also... but I think the only good pro exists when the rock is frozen together...

 

Thanks for posting a report on a little-climbed gem!

[pms]

Yea. Interested to see a picture with your line, for this and your Chair climb too.

[Marko]

...the only good pro exists when the rock is frozen together...

Very true

 

This climb's been on my list for a while now, nice FA Jim! Did you guys enter the gully from the left or the right?

 

Lower pitch and a half reaches normal east face ramp:

 

2nd pitch:

 

2nd pitch:

 

Top of 3rd:

 

Start of 4th (chimney):

 

Rolf smoked the delicate cruxes of course!

 

[Marko]

great job men, i believe that face should get more attention as there is some good climbing on it. although a bit runout for some peoples taste

Hey Mike, I got our pin back from 10+ years ago or whenever the hell that was

[Pete_H]

Looks like fun, difficult climbing. Nice job gentlemen.

[tanstaafl]

Rolf's 'stache in the fourth photo reminds me of the Swedish Chef. bork bork bork.

 

Nice work guys; glad someone got after it in the alpine!

[Pete_H]

Rolf's 'stache in the fourth photo reminds me of the Swedish Chef.

 

Ha. Missed that the first time.

[kukuzka1]

nice tied off shrubb on the second pitch, classic! ditto on the fwa with the late scott fisher(RIP)

[pms]

Hey Mark, I've only been up the regular route via the ramp. Your new start looks sick. I guess you're getting to know that face pretty good. Next time get some video of the Rat style. The Rat/E$ route on Chair looks interesting, no?

[olyclimber]

we may need a RatCam so we can scrutinize his movements

[Marko]

Hey Mark, I've only been up the regular route via the ramp. Your new start looks sick. I guess you're getting to know that face pretty good. Next time get some video of the Rat style. The Rat/E$ route on Chair looks interesting, no?

 

"only" ha ha

 

Si senor, wanna give it a go? (Not this weekend though...)

Edited February 10, 2012 by Marko

[kukuzka1]

Hey Mike, I got our pin back from 10+ years ago or whenever the hell that was on one of my many failled attempts!!