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PrincessWookie

Big Walls

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So ever since I started climbing, big walls/aiding appealed to me. I guess I like grueling pain and the feel of my shoulders burning as I use ascenders.

 

Of course, my first move is to start leading more climbs.

 

I'll be moving to Central WA, Wenatchee, this spring and getting back into the climbing scene. I know I'm not moving to Yosemite, but I think Index has some places where I can flop.

 

I want to be as efficient as possible in my training/ learning of big walls, and if I can learn from folks here that would be AWESOME!

 

Where are some good places to start and are there any schools/courses or people who are willing to take out n00bs in WA?? (I'm a very safe and good belayer)

 

Thanks for any help. :grin:

 

*edit: Yes, I do have John Long's/John Middendorf's Big Wall Book.

 

 

Edited by PrincessWookie

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alwasy happy to convert folks to the Dark Side - if you're planning on being down in the portland area, there's aiding to be had here - i'll likely be up w/ freinds to index in the spring too...

 

best thing to do, really, is to learn to aid-solo, then you can spend as long as you want on whatever schedule you want and make progress quickly. i'd recommend getting a grigri and, like generations afore ye, doing the pilgrimage up city park until c1 feels like butta :)

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alwasy happy to convert folks to the Dark Side - if you're planning on being down in the portland area, there's aiding to be had here - i'll likely be up w/ freinds to index in the spring too...

 

best thing to do, really, is to learn to aid-solo, then you can spend as long as you want on whatever schedule you want and make progress quickly. i'd recommend getting a grigri and, like generations afore ye, doing the pilgrimage up city park until c1 feels like butta :)

 

Thanks, Ivan! The Dark Side....screw Yoda.

 

Ooo...i do have a grigri so I'm off to a bit of a good start, then.

 

I'm originally from OR, so I'm sure I'll be down in your area this fall. I used to work in Prineville and spent time at Smith Rock (not climbing much, mostly working for the BLM).

 

I'll be in the area in late Feb and then making my move this April/May maybe the timing will work for us.

 

Do you do a fair amount of solo-ing?

 

Hmm.... I must have deleted my sentence saying that my ultimate goal is to aid solo... for the very reasons you described and i don't like depending on others...ropes make me nervous when I'm tethered to another person. :)

 

Thanks!

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make index and squamish your friends.

 

learn to lead and don't rush into things that are not fun.

 

Good point and reminder.. I do tend to want to rush into things.

 

Oh, I LOVE SQUAMISH! <3 the most magical place in North America. If anyone is willing to pay for my plane tickets to Canada, you got a belay slave at your beck and call 24/7 in Squamish.

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So ever since I started climbing, big walls/aiding appealed to me.
Now why on this earth would you want to submit yourself to this kind of punishment? Were you a bad person in a previous life?

Heed Gene's words and do not rush into things that are not fun... ;)

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Now why on this earth would you want to submit yourself to this kind of punishment? Were you a bad person in a previous life?

Heed Gene's words and do not rush into things that are not fun... ;)

 

Don't ask why, Sobo. I don't know... probably for the same reason I'm drawn to biking on snowy trails at 30 and 40 below on my Fat Bike....where you max out at 4 mph.

 

I'm the sweetest angle on earth-- past, present future...just ask G-spotter.

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...I'm the sweetest angle on earth-- past, present future...just ask G-spotter.
Um, yeah, like that goatfucker would know. :laf:

 

Oh, and I'm assuming you meant "angel"... And I'm sure you are... ;)

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...I'm the sweetest angle on earth-- past, present future...just ask G-spotter.
Um, yeah, like that goatfucker would know. :laf:

 

Oh, and I'm assuming you meant "angel"... And I'm sure you are... ;)

 

the sweetest angle is the angle having the most fun, and in your case that would be a 3/4 angle

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...I'm the sweetest angle on earth-- past, present future...just ask G-spotter.
Um, yeah, like that goatfucker would know. :laf:

 

Oh, and I'm assuming you meant "angel"... And I'm sure you are... ;)

 

the sweetest angle is the angle having the most fun, and in your case that would be a 3/4 angle

Sheesh.... :blush:

 

I dunno Alex, I think I'm more partial to right angles.. ever since that SOHCAHTOA thing.

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aid climbing is for fat losers who can't free

:wave:

on the other hand though, it DOES allow you to bring a lot more booze...

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And Warren Harding did get laid a lot. Though I doubt most of his contemporaries can make the same boast.

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And Warren Harding did get laid a lot. Though I doubt most of his contemporaries can make the same boast.

dude, you gotta go to bed way to early to send, and plus, you can't waste all that spermatic energy on non-vertical movement!

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You can keep the company of women, but you just have to deny them your essence.
8D I don't think I ever asked for a mans' essence.

 

Nope...can't recall saying to a guy, "Can I have some of your essence?"

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Um, this is the noob forum. Supposed to be G-rated. No, not that G!

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Um, this is the noob forum. Supposed to be G-rated. No, not that G!

Oops. I shouldn't encourage bad behavior. Sorry. :(

 

And thanks to those who posted the helpful information. :grin:

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I think I'm more partial to right angles.. ever since that SOHCAHTOA thing.
A woman who speaks my language. I think I'm in luv... :swoon:

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fuck aid climbing! lets go jam sum fuckin cracks in the desert :) i'm gonna need a recent photo first ;)

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